Islands, Beaches, and Bateria Santiago Near Portobela, Panama

Last week we chanced to take a day trip over to the Caribbean side of Panama. We decided on the Portobelo area for our visit and we are glad that we did. Besides getting us out of the city our excursion offered up white sandy beaches, palm trees, and the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea into which you are required to dip a toe. If you want some hammock time this is a great place to visit.

From Panama City, the trip to Portobelo took about two hours. Jungles, cows, and small but colorful somewhat impoverished towns were the plat du jour as we traveled along the country’s notoriously curvy roads. While I did not get road sick, Michael did, so if you are affected by the like, a dramamine might be called for.

After arriving at the small port where we were to catch a boat ride to the islands of Grande, Mamey and Monkey; I was lucky enough to meet a young man who offered to show me has aquatic skills. Unfortunately, my Spanish skills are “MALO” and I was unable to understand all that he was trying to convey to me but he was delighted as I clapped while he swam throughout the warm water.

After donning our life jackets we were off and soon gliding past a new version of housing for the rich and famous known as SeaPods. These environmentally friendly floating luxury homes are equipped with everything one needs to survive unscathed should a natural disaster occur. They are a unique site to behold and are reminiscent of something right out of a James Bond movie.

First, we visited Monkey Island where we met a spider monkey who barred his teeth and seemed relatively bored with viewing the humans from the safety of his tree. From there, we slid past Mangrove forests whose white sandy bottoms were crystal clear. Previously, I had no idea how important these trees are to the local ecology by acting as natural barriers against high waves, providing water filtration and places for fish and mammals to live within the tree’s roots.

After scooting in and out of the mangroves we hit the calm waves of the Caribbean and were carried off to Mamey… an island definitely designed for tourists with beach swimming and picnicking. Although a bit crowded for my taste it really was a nice way to relax and just enjoy the beauty of the islands surrounding us.

After and hour or so with stomachs growling, we were shepherded over to Isla Grande for a lunch of fresh fish and shrimp. I wish I could say it was an amazing meal…but I can’t and won’t, yet, the island’s cool breezes lead to shell searching and a lazy afternoon of basic nothingness but some shut eye despite just so-so food.

Back on the boat it was a short ride to the harbor where our air conditioned car welcomed us into its cool folds. We headed back the way we came but this time stopped at Bateria Santiago a small 18th Century neoclassical Spanish fort placed to guard the waterways surrounding Portobelo which was once known as a refuge for pirates. If you love history this is an interesting place to visit with the original cannons still guarding the fort. It was fascinating to learn that the building was erected from huge pieces of coral. This is because coral is able to absorb the blow of a cannon ball without splitting into small projectiles which is not true of typical rock construction. While OSHA would approve for safety reasons we know nothing like this will ever be constructed ever again.

All in all this was a great day trip from Panama City and I can hardly wait to go back to this side of the country to explore some more. Further, as an official Panamanian Resident I am proud to say that this part of Central American is definitely my favorite and just might be yours too. For the beauty that awaits those who visit is truly worth the effort (and car sickness) it takes to get here.

Tips: there are tours offered to this area by various companies. Prices vary so do your homework. And don’t forget to bring bug spray. While I had no mosquito issues Michael turned out to be their favorite lunch! Never have I seen such large number of mosquitos surround one person in my life!