Islands, Beaches, and Bateria Santiago Near Portobela, Panama

Last week we chanced to take a day trip over to the Caribbean side of Panama. We decided on the Portobelo area for our visit and we are glad that we did. Besides getting us out of the city our excursion offered up white sandy beaches, palm trees, and the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea into which you are required to dip a toe. If you want some hammock time this is a great place to visit.

From Panama City, the trip to Portobelo took about two hours. Jungles, cows, and small but colorful somewhat impoverished towns were the plat du jour as we traveled along the country’s notoriously curvy roads. While I did not get road sick, Michael did, so if you are affected by the like, a dramamine might be called for.

After arriving at the small port where we were to catch a boat ride to the islands of Grande, Mamey and Monkey; I was lucky enough to meet a young man who offered to show me has aquatic skills. Unfortunately, my Spanish skills are “MALO” and I was unable to understand all that he was trying to convey to me but he was delighted as I clapped while he swam throughout the warm water.

After donning our life jackets we were off and soon gliding past a new version of housing for the rich and famous known as SeaPods. These environmentally friendly floating luxury homes are equipped with everything one needs to survive unscathed should a natural disaster occur. They are a unique site to behold and are reminiscent of something right out of a James Bond movie.

First, we visited Monkey Island where we met a spider monkey who barred his teeth and seemed relatively bored with viewing the humans from the safety of his tree. From there, we slid past Mangrove forests whose white sandy bottoms were crystal clear. Previously, I had no idea how important these trees are to the local ecology by acting as natural barriers against high waves, providing water filtration and places for fish and mammals to live within the tree’s roots.

After scooting in and out of the mangroves we hit the calm waves of the Caribbean and were carried off to Mamey… an island definitely designed for tourists with beach swimming and picnicking. Although a bit crowded for my taste it really was a nice way to relax and just enjoy the beauty of the islands surrounding us.

After and hour or so with stomachs growling, we were shepherded over to Isla Grande for a lunch of fresh fish and shrimp. I wish I could say it was an amazing meal…but I can’t and won’t, yet, the island’s cool breezes lead to shell searching and a lazy afternoon of basic nothingness but some shut eye despite just so-so food.

Back on the boat it was a short ride to the harbor where our air conditioned car welcomed us into its cool folds. We headed back the way we came but this time stopped at Bateria Santiago a small 18th Century neoclassical Spanish fort placed to guard the waterways surrounding Portobelo which was once known as a refuge for pirates. If you love history this is an interesting place to visit with the original cannons still guarding the fort. It was fascinating to learn that the building was erected from huge pieces of coral. This is because coral is able to absorb the blow of a cannon ball without splitting into small projectiles which is not true of typical rock construction. While OSHA would approve for safety reasons we know nothing like this will ever be constructed ever again.

All in all this was a great day trip from Panama City and I can hardly wait to go back to this side of the country to explore some more. Further, as an official Panamanian Resident I am proud to say that this part of Central American is definitely my favorite and just might be yours too. For the beauty that awaits those who visit is truly worth the effort (and car sickness) it takes to get here.

Tips: there are tours offered to this area by various companies. Prices vary so do your homework. And don’t forget to bring bug spray. While I had no mosquito issues Michael turned out to be their favorite lunch! Never have I seen such large number of mosquitos surround one person in my life!

Kuang Si Waterfalls – Near Luang Prabang, Laos

About 20 miles from Luang Prabang is one of the areas most beautiful treasures, Kuang Si Waterfalls. The water slips from high in the jungle tumbling over sculpted white limestone creating sets of turquoise pools which meander further down the mountain to a small village called Ban Tad. We arrived early in the morning in April and already it was starting to scorch. Sounds of birds filled the air while even the sun bears in the rescue park had trouble leaving their hammocks.

Walking small paths we rounded corners which captured our imaginations as the scenery began to spill out in front of us.

Until at last…the first of the pools magically appeared. And YES…it is that amazing color!

One of the great things about this waterfall is that you can actually swim in some of the pools. So swim we did. The bottom is a little slippery and small fish nibble at your toes but on a sizzling hot day it is a small price to pay for the privilege of floating in the cool, clear, soft water.

Climbing the trail you will see giant stands of bamboo, including my favorite…the yellow variety.

After a 15 minute walk you will arrive at the crest of the waterfall. It’s a bridal veil that falls vertically almost 200 feet and it is truly an enchanting view.

Along the way you will be rewarded with many different types of flora and fauna…this is the jungle after all!

From the crest you can head up the mountain to THE VIEW which is a tree house restaurant and the start of the zip line which propels you down through the jungle at lightening speeds. While most of the walk consists of climbing up sets of steel staircases, BEWARE, it is a hike for the semi-fit, which basically leads straight up to the top of mountain. But once there, you will be rewarded with spectacular views and the sounds of water spilling over the cliffs.

There are path and waterways up here to explore too. You can even take a short boat ride to the “start” of the falls.

One the way down we stopped at a little cafe which had the best tempura and beer where the butterflies decided to belly up to the bar.

Kuang Si Waterfalls is a great place to spend a day especially during the heat of the summer. Open from 8 am until 5 pm daily, there is a small admittance fee of 20,000 kip to visit the park which amounts to a little over $1 USD. This place can fill up with bus loads of tourists. My suggestion…rent a car…get there early and when the crowds start to arrive…drive off and explore the countryside. It’s money well spent and it will give you a sense of adventure that you will otherwise miss.