Islands, Beaches, and Bateria Santiago Near Portobela, Panama

Last week we chanced to take a day trip over to the Caribbean side of Panama. We decided on the Portobelo area for our visit and we are glad that we did. Besides getting us out of the city our excursion offered up white sandy beaches, palm trees, and the warm waters of the Caribbean Sea into which you are required to dip a toe. If you want some hammock time this is a great place to visit.

From Panama City, the trip to Portobelo took about two hours. Jungles, cows, and small but colorful somewhat impoverished towns were the plat du jour as we traveled along the country’s notoriously curvy roads. While I did not get road sick, Michael did, so if you are affected by the like, a dramamine might be called for.

After arriving at the small port where we were to catch a boat ride to the islands of Grande, Mamey and Monkey; I was lucky enough to meet a young man who offered to show me has aquatic skills. Unfortunately, my Spanish skills are “MALO” and I was unable to understand all that he was trying to convey to me but he was delighted as I clapped while he swam throughout the warm water.

After donning our life jackets we were off and soon gliding past a new version of housing for the rich and famous known as SeaPods. These environmentally friendly floating luxury homes are equipped with everything one needs to survive unscathed should a natural disaster occur. They are a unique site to behold and are reminiscent of something right out of a James Bond movie.

First, we visited Monkey Island where we met a spider monkey who barred his teeth and seemed relatively bored with viewing the humans from the safety of his tree. From there, we slid past Mangrove forests whose white sandy bottoms were crystal clear. Previously, I had no idea how important these trees are to the local ecology by acting as natural barriers against high waves, providing water filtration and places for fish and mammals to live within the tree’s roots.

After scooting in and out of the mangroves we hit the calm waves of the Caribbean and were carried off to Mamey… an island definitely designed for tourists with beach swimming and picnicking. Although a bit crowded for my taste it really was a nice way to relax and just enjoy the beauty of the islands surrounding us.

After and hour or so with stomachs growling, we were shepherded over to Isla Grande for a lunch of fresh fish and shrimp. I wish I could say it was an amazing meal…but I can’t and won’t, yet, the island’s cool breezes lead to shell searching and a lazy afternoon of basic nothingness but some shut eye despite just so-so food.

Back on the boat it was a short ride to the harbor where our air conditioned car welcomed us into its cool folds. We headed back the way we came but this time stopped at Bateria Santiago a small 18th Century neoclassical Spanish fort placed to guard the waterways surrounding Portobelo which was once known as a refuge for pirates. If you love history this is an interesting place to visit with the original cannons still guarding the fort. It was fascinating to learn that the building was erected from huge pieces of coral. This is because coral is able to absorb the blow of a cannon ball without splitting into small projectiles which is not true of typical rock construction. While OSHA would approve for safety reasons we know nothing like this will ever be constructed ever again.

All in all this was a great day trip from Panama City and I can hardly wait to go back to this side of the country to explore some more. Further, as an official Panamanian Resident I am proud to say that this part of Central American is definitely my favorite and just might be yours too. For the beauty that awaits those who visit is truly worth the effort (and car sickness) it takes to get here.

Tips: there are tours offered to this area by various companies. Prices vary so do your homework. And don’t forget to bring bug spray. While I had no mosquito issues Michael turned out to be their favorite lunch! Never have I seen such large number of mosquitos surround one person in my life!

Panama Rainforest Discovery Center

Yesterday I went on a group adventure to the Panama Rainforest Discovery Center which is located approximately 45 minutes outside Panama City near Gamboa. Built as an educational center, it allows people to experience jungle life with the numerous birds, insects and animals who survive and thrive within its boundaries.

Within minutes of our arrival we heard the howler monkeys (monos aulladores) voices echoing from the treetops. It is hard to believe that an animal of such a small stature can make such a big noise! Later on one of the many hiking trails, we spied them sleeping as a group in the trees.

Howler Monkeys

The Panama Rainforest Discovery Center is known as one of the premier bird watching locations in the world. In fact, in 1985 the Audubon Society held a bird count and an amazing 385 different species of were spotted…a new record for the greatest variety of birds seen within a 24 hour period. Birdwatchers advise getting to the center at opening time (6 am) to get the most out of your birdwatching experience.

One of the educational offerings is the hummingbird observation area at which you can see numerous different types of hummingbirds. Unfortunately, when we were there we only saw a few which I believe was a result of the size of our group and the time of day. Because my photos did not turn out very good so I am posting a picture that is found at the center which shows the types of hummingbirds that you can observe in the area.

The Discovery Center has numerous groomed hiking trails throughout its boarders and they range from easy to slightly more difficult. As you hike along you will hear bird songs which range from soft and sweet to slightly jarring. There is nothing like a good bird song to delight the ears! Click the picture below to hear one very happy bird.

Another interesting feature of the park is the Observation Tower which takes you high above the jungle canopy. There are numerous steps to the top but it is a relatively easy climb and you are well rewarded by the incredible vistas. There is a slight sway to the tower but don’t worry it is a completely normal.

If you are a tourist there is a rather hefty entrance fee to get into the park but between the possible encounters with monkeys, birds, sloths and anteaters I think it is worth it. In addition, to get to the Discovery Center you have to pass on the other side of the Panama Canal which gives you an up close view of the boats passing through. That alone is worth it in my opinion.

For now, I leave you with more photos of the day which I hope leaves you wanting to visit the incredible nation of Panama and its many forms of diversity.

The Embera’ of Panamá

Today I visited the indigenous people known as the Embera, who have lived within the forest of Eastern Panama for thousands of years. Surviving primarily through fishing and growing various crops; the Embera’ now earn a living by educating tourists as to their way of life over many millennia.

Arriving at the river we were greeted by men in traditional clothing and ushered into dugout canoes for our journey up the waterways.

Our adventure really began as we ventured onto the river’s tributaries spying huge neon blue butterflies drifting along the banks, blue herons standing on their tall skinny legs around the waters edge, and small waterfalls sliding down the hills. Finally, we arrived at the biggest waterfall in the area where we had to clamber along slippery rocks in order to enjoy its fine mist and thundering show. The sacredness of this beautiful place was not lost on anybody.

After experiencing the earth’s natural tranquilities we headed to the Embera’ village where we listened to an educational program about the tribe, learned about how baskets and made through naturally dyed chunga palm fibers and heard the story of how tribal justice is delivered using interlocking foot boards, honey, and any insects that decide to make their way to the disgraced person via that sweet honey treat.

The Embera’ are also known for their use of kipara which decorates their bodies and unlike a permanent tattoo only lasts for several weeks. The color is derived from the Jangua fruit and the art of kipara has been shown to repel mosquitoes as well as other kinds of insects.

After the program we feasted on a lunch of taro, fresh-caught fish, and various fruits. It was delicious!

One of the things I enjoyed the most was a little girl who climbed down the steps of her home and hightailed it under the house in order to hide from her mother. She looked at me and put her finger to her lips to let me know in no uncertain terms that I was not to inform her mother as to her whereabouts as she scampered away!

After lunch we were entertained by the traditional dances of the Embera’ people and asked to participate after a demonstration. Let’s just say my partner was lucky that I only stepped on his barefoot toes once with my two left feet!

All too soon it was time to head back to “civilization” after shopping for traditional artwork made by the villagers. All in all a great and well orchestrated experience which was fun and educational too.

My new basket! Isn’t it amazing!

Panama City, Panama

Casco Viejo (or Old Town) is an amazingly beautiful part of Panama City. French and Spanish Colonial architecture combine to create a section of the city that is living its best life. Once known as Panama Viejo, the waterside port was established in 1519 but was destroyed in 1671 by the pirate Henry Morgan. Today is area is being revitalized and features old churches, great restaurants, and small shops. Best of all the ocean water belts cool breezes which flow like a gentle mists throughout the ancient streets. Frankly, the town reminds me a little of New Orleans with a lot more punch.

One of the things I loved about Old Town was the alleyways with hats, or flags, or copies of ancient embroidery hanging from upper window to upper window on both sides of the street. This part of Panama City always has something to be enchanted by and it makes your heart skip a beat when you turn a corner and find something unexpected and charming.

Since I am still having computer issues I am doing a computer dump of some of my pictures so you can get your own idea of the city. Enjoy!