Lima Peru…One Of The Most Beautiful Cities In The World

When we decided to visit Lima Pera it came quite a shock to us that it was one of the premier gastronomy delights in the world. After residing here for five days we have also discovered that it is one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in the world blessed with incredible weather and amazing views.

Lima is built high on a cliff and below it runs something akin to the Pacific Coast Highway of California. The city is putting a lot of time and money into this area and while driving you will see all sorts of activities available to locals and tourists alike. From sand volleyball courts, to an Olympic-sized pool, skateboard park, and basketball courts; Lima is working hard to re-make itself into a city for all ages and all interests. Meanwhile, up on the cliffs there are miles of walking trails looking down on the Pacific Ocean, pocket parks, and plenty of new high-rise apartments. Mom and Pop restaurants are everywhere as are local shops. You won’t find the big box stores in these neighborhoods. We are in staying in artsy-artsy neighborhood of Barranco and walk over to Barrio Miraflores everyday utilizing the giant overpass that stretches from one part of one city to the other.

Walking through Barranco the other day we found several gems. One was the Second Home Peru Guesthouse. Once owned by Peruvian sculptor, Victor Delfin, the hotel features his artwork throughout the grounds and has a quaint public bar with outdoor seating overlooking the ocean. It really is a place to get away and relax for an hour or two as you explore the barrio.

We also found three incredible stores which feature artisans from Peru. It was difficult to take my hands off the smooth beauty of the fine furniture which one can preview at Arteanos Don Bosco. While at tienda Dedalo the ceramics and textiles were a feast for the eyes. Street artist Jade Rivera’s gallery was an explosion of colors and abstract meanings which make those viewing his work stop and contemplate the known and consider what may previously been the unknown. What surprised me the most was that I saw on of his giant murals in Santiago and photographed it only to find postcard copies in the gallery. Walk a little further down the block and you will come to the Mural Bridge….it is truly stunning.

The next day we ubered to the Plaza Mayor which sits in the center of the historic district. Here you can find the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, the Palace. and many more smaller churches and museums within a couple of blocks.

The Cathedral was founded in 1535 but has undergone many renovations since due to earthquakes which damaged the building many times over the years. Inside, there are creepy crypts, thirteen chapels and rooms which house sacred religious art.

Sepulcher Room of Don Francisco Pizarro

After leaving the Cathedral we heard some marching band music and headed over to the Palace where it so happened that the changing go the guard was taking place! What a delightful stumble as I have always tried to attend these and I had no clue that they did such a thing in Lima.

We then headed to lunch and if I can give a piece of advice…don’t eat around the Plaza Mayor. The food is expensive and not particularly good but I have to confess I like the free Pisco sours they had out to get you into a restaurant!

We then stumbled upon the MUCEN also known as the Banco Central De Reserva Del Peru. Housed in an old bank building this museum offers up contemporary art, traditional artwork of the Pre-Columbian peoples of the area and paintings from the 1600-1800’s. It is a great little museum and just perusing the building is worth it. There is no entrance fee.

From there we happened up the Centro Cultural Inca Garcilaso another small museum.

I think it is important to let you know that the smaller ancient churches downtown have limited hours usually from 9-12 and from 5-8 pm. We were disappointed to miss some of these gems and think it is worth the time spent to visit them if you can.

At this point I am just going to dump some photos that I hope you will enjoy. Lima really is an incredible city and it’s a place I will probably return to again and again. Moderate weather, beautiful scenery, a fascinating history, easy walking neighborhoods, and a feeling of safety makes this an ideal place to spend time and explore until your heart is content.

The Most Marvelous Day-Cusco, Peru

The morning started with a massive headache. But what do you expect when you are at 11,100 feet above sea level and altitude sickness is knocking on your door? A few Tylenol later and Michael and I were heading through an ancient wooden door and stepping out into the unknown.

Cusco, Peru is one of the most scenic and authentic towns I have been to in South America. In only five minutes time while walking through the squares it was easy to determine that I absolutely love it here! History seeps from its pores and every corner turned is a new adventure. Yes, it is true that Cusco is a tourist town where all the foreigners hang out before heading to Machu Picchu but despite it all it’s historic center is amazing with small cafes, ancient churches, and coffee houses dotting the area. I only wished I had been around to see its untouched and unspoiled beauty fifty years ago.

We are staying at an Air b&b called Secret Garden and except for being a bit chilly at night it is everything you could ask for. Set in an historic building it looks like a “typical” hacienda found in Mexico. We were told that for altitude sickness we should drink some coca leave tea which we conveniently located in a kitchen canister. The tea is slightly bitter and I cannot tell you if it helps or not but hey….sometimes you just have to follow the traditions of the area.

Upon exiting a hoary wooden door we were immediately thrust into the one of the city squares. People, busses and cars hugged the narrow streets as we walked to a small coffee house. I had an amazing gluten free tart made of tumbo fruit which is native to the area. Right outside of the door we saw these ladies and their baby alpacas.

Across the street we paid $20 Sol to enter a museum known as the Qorikancha Archeological Site and Museum; which was once the main temple of the vast Inca Empire built around 1200 AD. The Inca Empire was largest territory in the New World before European conquests began. Qorikancha or the House of the Sun was constructed and according to the Spanish was filled with golden treasures. Eventually, Colonial buildings were added to the Inca land while most of the original buildings were destroyed. The land was given to the Dominican order and the Church and Covent of Santo Domingo. The property has undergone many transformations due to many large earthquakes that have occurred over the past four-hundred years.

Paintings line the walls of the museum many of which were created by the Cusco School of Colonial Art which employed native traditions of art developed by mostly Indian or mixed race artisans.

The gardens are spectacular featuring many types of fuschia, trumpet trees, and various native flowers.

It will cost another $5 Sol (about $1.65 USD) to climb the bell tower but it is something you must do. The passageways are reminiscent of European castles with arrowslits. But the biggest reward is the view that encompasses the entire valley with its many churches and a magnificent convent sitting hillside.

Finally, there is the Colonial Church of Santo Domingo. Built in the 17tht century, its a fusion of Inca masonry and Baroque architecture. It houses various paintings and treasures from the Dominicans.

From here we walked the city just enjoying whatever it was we stumbled upon including the Church of the Society of Jesus, Church of La Merced and the Loreto Church. And behind the Church of the Society we encountered a whole different type of animal.

One thing that we didn’t know before arriving in South America is that Peru is one of the world’s best loved and appreciated gastronomy regions in the world. And it hasn’t disappointed. We went to an amazing restaurant called Mare. The waiter did several presentations of the different ingredients that were used in our meal. We dined on Guinea Pig (a very usual flavor but wonderful) and for desert we had almost a custard of Chimoya and passion fruit with chili oxicala chips capped off by homemade coffee ice cream. It was by far the most interesting and yummy desert that I have ever eaten.

I love the vibrant colors and music of the city. Women in traditional Peruvian dress can still be found everywhere and fireworks shoot off at all times of the day and night in celebration of the saints that are beloved by the town.

Now I leave you with a multitude of pictures that I took throughout the day. Best of all, I can hardly wait for tomorrow so that I can discover all that awaits around each and every corner.

What I Like And Dislike About Santiago

I have to confess I have found little to be charmed about in this city which has suffered misery and depravity for many years. Apartment buildings that look like Soviet cement gulags and mountains that just look thirsty and hot AND worn out surround the area. It is not a place to which I will return and that is a shame. A shame because years of authoritarianism left the city behind the eight ball of the rest of the world and it doesn’t appear that it will ever catch up. Put a government in control in which people are snatched off the street, unrest is a steady diet of the masses, and people are forced to live in a state of constant fear …well, its no wonder that economic and emotional chaos follows for years to come. I suspect that for however long an authoritarian regime holds power that it takes at least triple that number of years to restore a sense of belonging to the city itself. Either that or until everyone who has experienced its atrocities has passed. No matter, it is not good for the soul of the place. For authoritarian governments do not die with the death or removal of the despot but continue in a thousand insidious ways after they are gone.

Yet, while I have to believe things are improving for the average person here I wonder if this place will ever be what it could have been. I have a list of my likes and dislikes of Santiago that I hope can be a road map to change however long that takes.

LIKES:

  1. The National Library is a treasure. Take a trip to the second floor and lose yourself in the sense of magic that the library holds. Think Hogwarts on a much smaller scale. The circular staircases and wood paneling are exquisite!

  1. Public transportation here is incredible. Never have I seen so many buses in one city. The Metro is fantastic too.
  2. The old-style European and the art deco buildings give you a small sense of what life was like 100 years ago.
  1. Great wines are available at decent prices.
  2. Many of the parks and museums have no entrance fees.
  3. The historic churches are the crown jewels of the city and give it a small sense of grandeur.
  1. Instant markets where people set up shop on the street selling their wares.
  2. The numerous curves streets and apartment buildings. It adds a sense of appreciation for things created with interest and drama.
  3. Pesco Sours. The national drink which is cool and refreshing.
  1. Round windows that open and pivot.
  1. The gelato is everywhere and its amazing.
  1. There are some really wonderful murals throughout the city.

DISLIKES:

  1. The graffiti. It is everywhere with few buildings untouched. No matter the height of the building you can find the words and drawings top to bottom. Every one we talked to who didn’t live here commented on the vastness of it all. Let’s face it is gives people a sense that no one cares enough to take pride and care of their living spaces.

2. Chile is expensive. Prices are high for most things except acupuncture for which I paid about the equivalent of $35 for massage, cupping, and the needles which lasted 1 1/2 hours. Luckily, I feel better after 10 days of severe neck pain.

Screenshot

3. The food is bland and not particularly good. It is also pretty expensive. That said, one of our best meals was a taco place in a flea market… spicy food bursting with flavor! While you will have no problem finding greasy fried food’ typical menu fare the restaurants offer little more than the usual pizza, burgers, and empanadas.

4. No matter where we were people gave me advice to put away my phone because thieves would ride by and snatch them out of your hand. This makes taking photos next to impossible and contributes to a sense of an over-all lack to safety.

5. Like places and people everywhere that have been oppressed, even if hundreds of years ago, that sense of oppression remains. While history cannot and should not be erased, this land is full of memorials, artwork, and statues of the conquerors which appears to contribute to an undertow of negative vibrations that can be seen in its indigenous people’s faces and can be felt within its borders.

While I come away with a not so favorable impression of Santiago; I am reminded that there is good and beauty wherever you go. Sometimes you just have to seek it out. And so I leave you with this mixed bag of photos :

Historic Churches of Santiago Chile

It’s summer here in the Southern Equator but one of the coolest places in the county is Santiago’s historic churches. While not as old as those found in Europe, nevertheless, their history and designs often mimic those found from Latin America’s conquering nations.

IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO

With its red exterior and unusual bell tower, Iglesia De San Francisco looks newer than other churches in the area, but don’t be fooled, as this one of the oldest buildings in the country. What is even more amazing is that it has withstood over 15 earthquakes with a shake value of over 7.0 each time the earth moved.

According to church history, five Franciscans arrived from Peru in 1553 but it was not until 1572 that construction began on the church. Consecrated in 1597 the building was completed in 1618. It lost its bell tower in 1647 and 1730 due to quakes. The current one was constructed in the middle of the 1800’s.

The ceiling of this magnificent building was constructed using a coffered Mudejar style beginning in 1615. You will definitely get a kink in your neck as you look upward.

Iglesia De la Vera Cruz

Located in Barrio Lastarria, work on this church began in 1852 and was completed in 1857. The church was suppose to have been built on the site where conquistador Pedro de Valdivia had lived in order to honor his memory but it appears that this location is most likely a myth. This building is a very weird, almost spooky place visit as the inside was burnt out in November 2019 during local riots.

Santiago Metropolitan Cathedral

Located in the Plaza de Armas of Santiago the Cathedral is the home of the Archdiocese and the Archbishop of Santiago. This imposing building was built between 1748 – 1906; its present incarnation being the fifth church to have been built on the site… previous ones being lost to earthquakes and a fire. The Cathedral is dedicated to Assumption of the Virgin Mary and is the main church of the city.

One interesting aspect to the Cathedral is Archiepiscopal crypt which was remodeled recently adding light and depth to the place where most of the Archbishops of Santiago are buried.

Templo De San AugstinOur Lady of Grace

Built in 1625 this beautiful church was the favorite of those that I visited. There is a beautiful wooden carving of Jesus that holds special significance to the area. Until the earthquake of 1647 Jesus wore a crown of thorns upon his head. During the quake it is said that the crown of thorns fell from the head of Jesus and slipped around his neck. When someone tried to put the crown back upon his head it is said that the statue’s face began to bleed and the ground began shaking violently. For this reason the crown remains around the neck of the beloved.

But the thing that I loved most about the church was its congregants devotion to Saint Rita of Cascia whose face graces parts of the ceiling and a wall of the church. Rita was born in the late 1300’s in Italy. She was married young to a man who was known to be a rich adulterer with a sharp tongue and quick temper. Rita endured his physical and mental abuse for the 18 years that they were married while with gentleness and humility taught her husband to be a better man. After her husband died (he was murdered as a result of a long-time feud) she joined a sisterhood of nuns who later became the Augustinains. She was known for her belief in and participation of mortification of the flesh.

Rita is known as the saint of impossible causes. In addition, she is the patron saint of the sick, loneliness, sterility, abuse victims, couple and marriage difficulties, widows, parenthood, bodily ills, and wounds. It was wonderful to see a woman glorified in a religion that often saves glorification and adoration for men. Yeah Rita!

The Embera’ of Panamá

Today I visited the indigenous people known as the Embera, who have lived within the forest of Eastern Panama for thousands of years. Surviving primarily through fishing and growing various crops; the Embera’ now earn a living by educating tourists as to their way of life over many millennia.

Arriving at the river we were greeted by men in traditional clothing and ushered into dugout canoes for our journey up the waterways.

Our adventure really began as we ventured onto the river’s tributaries spying huge neon blue butterflies drifting along the banks, blue herons standing on their tall skinny legs around the waters edge, and small waterfalls sliding down the hills. Finally, we arrived at the biggest waterfall in the area where we had to clamber along slippery rocks in order to enjoy its fine mist and thundering show. The sacredness of this beautiful place was not lost on anybody.

After experiencing the earth’s natural tranquilities we headed to the Embera’ village where we listened to an educational program about the tribe, learned about how baskets and made through naturally dyed chunga palm fibers and heard the story of how tribal justice is delivered using interlocking foot boards, honey, and any insects that decide to make their way to the disgraced person via that sweet honey treat.

The Embera’ are also known for their use of kipara which decorates their bodies and unlike a permanent tattoo only lasts for several weeks. The color is derived from the Jangua fruit and the art of kipara has been shown to repel mosquitoes as well as other kinds of insects.

After the program we feasted on a lunch of taro, fresh-caught fish, and various fruits. It was delicious!

One of the things I enjoyed the most was a little girl who climbed down the steps of her home and hightailed it under the house in order to hide from her mother. She looked at me and put her finger to her lips to let me know in no uncertain terms that I was not to inform her mother as to her whereabouts as she scampered away!

After lunch we were entertained by the traditional dances of the Embera’ people and asked to participate after a demonstration. Let’s just say my partner was lucky that I only stepped on his barefoot toes once with my two left feet!

All too soon it was time to head back to “civilization” after shopping for traditional artwork made by the villagers. All in all a great and well orchestrated experience which was fun and educational too.

My new basket! Isn’t it amazing!

My Best Meals In Mexico City Thus Far

I have to say I have been so lucky to have consumed many extraordinary meals while in Mexico City. It’s strange that while Paris and New York are talked about as being some of the places to experience the best cuisine on the planet; Mexico is all but forgotten but it should not be. It has some of the most inventive and eye-popping food anywhere. Here are a few of my favorites:

Morimoto. Located in the Camino Real Hotel, Morimoto is also known to Philidelphians and New Yorkers for its inventive but classic Asian fare. Yesterday, I had the Pork Belly Buns and I actually ordered a second helping…I haven’t done that in 30 years. The flavors were so complex and melt in your mouth good. Makes you never want to brush your teeth again so that the flavors can linger the rest of your life. We also had excellent sushi and a calamari salad that was amazing.

Another memorable lunch was had at the Cafe in the Museo de Archeaology. While not the best food I have ever eating it was interesting and tasty. The Sea Bass was VERY spicy and I loved the traditional corn served with lime, chile, mayonaise and cheese. Here is one page of the menu along with pics of our lunch.

One of the wonderful laid-back dinners I will always remember was served up at Xi-lo-tl in the neighborhood of Cuauhtemoc. This tiny hole in the wall restaurant set in a lovely neighborhood of art deco buildings; serves tacos in ways that can only be created by someone with an amazing imagination. Loved the spice and the inventiveness of this place.

Another excellent restaurant is in Centro near The Palacio Nacional. The architecture at El Cardenal is beautiful with stain glass windows and a beautiful old piano whose music accompanies your memorable meal. I had the BEST EVER ( I MEAN EVER) corn that has ever been served on the planet while Michael had beef tongue which he enjoyed. Look at some of the interesting items of this menu.

But by far one of my favorite meals was at Galea in the Roma Norte district. What drew us to this place was an afternoon walk where we glanced into a doorway and just happened to see a man making homemade pasta. He told us we must come and experience the food…and so we did. It was one of the best meals we ever ate and is Michelin mentioned. They had a lovely three course menu to choose from and we were thrilled with the options. Michael had the Rotolo (Tuscan rabbit ragu in pasta) while I had gluten free pasta Garganelli whose falvors of mushroom ragu, cashews and ricotta made my mouth explode with rich creamy flavors. The sweet potato mille-feuille first course was just as amazing. And dessert….well, it took my breath away.

A wonderful little breakfast/lunch cafe is called Miga Cafe which is located in the area of Cuauhtemoc. The coffee here is amazing and breakfast tastes lush and filling. Just look at that French Toast! Prices are more than reasonable and if you have never had lavender cream you must try it!

Another favorite breakfast place (that also serves lunch and dinner was Ava Maria in Jardin Centenario near the Kahlo Museum. The service was impecable, ambiance delightful, and the fresh fruits that are brought to your table for you to choose were fresh and flavorful. The enchiladas suizas with mozzarella sauce was delicious and a great way to start off a day full of site-seeing.

But I will confess if you want a really filling carnita for about $1.50 you can’t beat Carnitas El Guero in the very traditional Mexican old town of Interlomas. With pork chopped up and handed to you within 2 minutes off the grill it is a great place for cheap eats.

So here are a few of my favorite places in Mexico City. I plan on returning soon to try so many of the excellent eateries that the city should be extremely proud of.

Flowers And Critters in Costa Rica

Since my computer took a dump, I’m having to write this using my telephone. Needless to say it makes things difficult and complicated. Therefore, I decided to create this post the old-fashioned way… Just dump a bunch of pictures. So here goes I hope you enjoy some of the things I’ve seen why I’ve been in Costa Rica. 

A Painfully Noisy Day

Before you set off on a trip, you tend to believe that your time away will be nothing but glorious. Today was not that day.

It started with my computer that decided it did not want to wake up when I did. As a matter of fact, it hasn’t woken up all day. This is obviously a very bad sign, especially when you are living in the middle of rural Costa Rica and there’s nowhere that can fix it . Therefore, I’m attempting to write this blog by speaking into a microphone. We shall see how it goes, but I would expect a lot of typos that I’m probably too lazy to fix.

After I discovered the bad news about my computer, I decided to take a walk. It was a lovely morning … cloudy with mist hanging over the mountains and not yet hot. I had one cup of coffee in and enough caffeine to probably get me to the next village when I heard this.:

After that excitement, I drove to Nicoya where I was delighted to find a new store with all sorts of gluten-free items. Of course, it was expensive but great to find as I started home. A huge thunderstorm arrived. The thunderstorms are very loud because they echo across the valley. It’s kind of cool and I like them. However, I lost my GPS and therefore my way home. I ended up only God knows where in the back country, even further back than I currently am, trying to find my way out. Eventually, I made it home, unlocked the gate in the pouring rain, looked up, to see what all the racket was. It was these beautiful parrots. Take a listen and a look: (For some reason you have to press the triangles even though there is no movie… then it shows up)


Parrots

All is well until right after I finish filming this when I slipped on a wet rock and landed on my shoulder, you know the one with the torn rotator cuff. At first, I thought I broke my wrist, but I didn’t. Thank goodness, but I did screw up the shoulder again. I’d like to say the video of the parrots was worth it… We shall see about that!

Today is the festival so I will be going to the school at 4 PM to help celebrate. I was invited and I think it has something to do with beans. It is also Costa Rica’s Independence Day so I guess I will find out how beans tie into that But I’m excited and honored that I was asked to come. I’ll let you know how it goes. 



			

Living In Very Rural Costa Rica

If you have ever dreamed about getting away from in all…come to Costa Rica. Yes, there are resorts and San Jose, but if you really want to get lost, come to rural Guanacaste where the Brahma cows out number humans, the monkey are louder than them, and the nearest town is about twenty-five minutes away by car and 2 days if you are walking.

Yesterday, I went to the very small school down the road to see if anyone there could help me with my Spanish by talking to me a couple of hours a week and I would pay them. No one knows English, which while expected, was disappointing because even with my translator no one understood what I was really wanting. No one had to speak English just be willing to to talk to me in Spanish. If nothing else I proved to be a sizable distraction for the kids who thought my attempts at communicating in Spanish were hilarious!

It is very impoverished here but I am not sure that anyone in the valley is truly aware of it. Everyone waves and smiles, and during my walk today several people waved and answered me back after I yelled out “buenos tardes!” Tonight I plan to go down to the bingo hall and play a game or two as a benefit for a sick child in the village.

The day before they left my hosts took me into Nicoya which is the nearest “big” town. It has A McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Sigh. There are three supermarkets and a lovely town plaza full of Iguanas of all colors. I love the orange ones. Food at the supermarkets is expensive and I don’t know how the locals afford to shop. For instance a small sized Wall-Mart shredded cheese is $4 here while at home about $2. I was shocked and my heart went out to all the less-fortunate folks for whom shopping must be a cruel joke.

On Wednesday I took I & E to the airport in San Jose so they could go home to France to visit their first grand baby. I drove their truck…a six speed stick shirt. I was terrified. Why? Because no one seems to follow traffic laws, I had not driven a stick in 25 years, and I was driving in a big city.

Driving here is arduous. It is about a five-six hour trek from here one way to the airport. I don’t think it is because of the roads per se even though the first thirty minutes is spent dodging potholes the size of small continents along rutted dirt roads. No, I think it takes so long because the trucks NEVER pull over even though there are fifty cars behind them and they are going 30 mph. Add to that road work and tree trimming along the highway and the time it takes to get from here to there increases dramatically. But the scenery if truly spectacular and it was nice passing the ocean and stopping off at the butterfly farm. Unfortunately, the farm had experienced a major crisis two days before I came when birds got into the butterfly pen. Let’s just say I was told that there were numerous casualties inflicted by the invaders.

All in all my stay thus far has been a 180 degree change from my time in Mexico. It is HOT here and so very HUMID. There is no air conditioner which means I am too hot to cook and as a result I have lost 5 pounds. I am also sleeping under mosquito netting thank goodness. Yet despite all of this I developed a massive headache (which I never usually have) and my stomach feels like I have been sailing. I am hoping that I am not coming down with anything and that the tick that bit me is not some disease carrying vampire. Yes, I know, I am sounding like a whiny American and as sick as I am feeling today (now Saturday) I have earned the title. But I know that soon I will be feeling better which will improve the attitude and the whining will cease.

A Few Of My Favorite Things

As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.