A Few Of My Favorite Things

As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.

The Murals Are Amazing…Just Don’t Look Up!

One of the things I have come to appreciate are all the colorful murals that you can find along the streets of Mexico no matter what city you are in. They serve to brighten up a spot as well as act as advertising billboards. The colors that are used are vibrant enough to catch the eye and burn into your brain to the point you can always find the mural again. What’s cool is that the subject matter can be just about anything and what’s more is the murals can be small as an orange crate or as large as a city block. Here are a few examples of the artwork that I have seen during my two months here.

Yet, as beautiful as they are there is one problem with murals which is tied into a significant defect in city planning and a lack of consistent building codes. I will gladly admit this is one of the few things I abhor about Mexico and if I can give you one piece of advice about this country it would be this… never look up …. always keep your eyes on the ground…and stand still if you are gazing at anything higher than your head. Then, hopefully, you should be safe and survive your journey intact.

So here it is the thing I abhor: you have no idea how many times I have been walking along looking up at the steeples and the murals and anything else that has caught my when…WHAMMMM…the side walk ends or the road height changes significantly and down I go! I am surprised I have not ended up in the hospital with a broken ankle. To give you an idea how significant the problem is here are just a few examples of this high/low problem as found on my street alone. And mind you, the driveways leading out of each house, is a different height than that their neighbors. Nothing is uniform… but it should be.

And look at this hole in the sidewalk on my way to the supermercado. It looks exactly like a replica of a category five hurricane that we are shown on the television that comes complete with warnings of imminent death should you not move to higher ground.

So while we in the USA bitch and moan about all the rules and just want government off our backs; I can tell you from experience that there is a good reason for some of regulations. And if, in the future, I don’t blog, I would fancy to say that I was one of those virgin maidens that fell into one of the gigantic holes… never to be heard from again…at least that is how the story goes in my scariest of nightmares.

The Haciendas-Oh My!

Historically, a hacienda is a huge estate brought to this area through the effort of Spanish Colonization. These vast tracks of land covered entire valleys and were responsible for agricultural enterprises and often the forced servitude of indigenous peoples. Today, many of buildings have been turned into upscale hotels and restaurants which are amazing to visit. I have been to a couple since I arrived and today I am going to share them with you.

Hacienda Laborcilla

Nested in the heart of the city of Queretaro; Laborcilla literally took my breath away. Built in the 18th century the hacienda once served as a main house for the family, a school, and even an event hall over the years. Now open to the public as a grand restaurant, the food and the atmosphere are simply magnificent. The gardens are drop dead gorgeous and the menu is divine.

I have to tell you that coffee here in Mexico is truly remarkable and when you order juice is it always fresh squeezed. It is an amazing way to start your day… combined with the basket of fresh pastries that was brought our table almost immediately upon being seated.

For breakfast I had enchiladas suiza which were filled with chicken breast and cheese topped with bacon. It was an amazing desayuno.

But while the food was excellent I will have to say that it is the atmosphere that people come here for. It is a place you will never forget and stunning doesn’t begin to describe it. There are orchids everywhere and butterflies float around your table as your eat. Here is the first impression upon entering.

There were many themed dining rooms throughout Laborcilla and all were amazing to step into with gorgeous Asian, Egyptian and Greek Antiques, as well as reproductions, in every nook and cranny. Just so much to feast on with the eyes and not enough time.

Here is a short video of the Club Room

What I learned from this experience is always say !!!!YES!!!! when someone invites you to breakfast in Mexico because you never know what wonderful things await you.

THE HOTEL MISION GRAND JURIQUILLA

The first former hacienda I visited is now a grand hotel called the Hotel Mision Grand Juriquilla. It’s another 18th century hacienda which has been beautifully restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant. With a historic church on the grounds and landscaping that makes you want to hire their head gardener, Hotel Mision is a place that you can easily call home when traveling. Take a look for yourself.

I have been told that there are so many beautiful historical haciendas throughout the country that I am thinking that I might just make it a goal of mine to visit each and every one. With so much charm and the fact that these amazing buildings just ooze history; visiting a hacienda today is like a trip back in time combined with the elegance of today, which, makes visiting these historic sites land at the top of my bucket list while in Mexico.

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

Another Corn Post…Who Would Have Thought!

Tonight I went out to dinner with several local women. It was a fantastic evening and we went to the Natica Plaza which is located on a small lake in Juriquilla. The scenery is beautiful and reminded me of Lake Como but 1000 times smaller.

The restaurant was right on the water and it was a beautiful cool evening. Everything about this night was perfecto including the company. The drinks were pretty wonderful too.

Since I have been here in Mexico I have heard (and seen in the supermarcado) something about a corn that develops a kind of moldy fungus on it. Since I love ice wine which is developed from grapes that are affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot); I thought that I might want to try this delicacy too.

Well, tonight at Los Patos I was delighted to find that one of their specialities was a quesadilla combination featuring three different kinds: mushrooms and cheese, squash flower and huitlacoche (smut corn) and queso. You have to admit with a name like smut corn… that you can’t possibly go wrong! It is a very particular type of corn that grows this fungus and there I was starring at a blessed menu with this taste treat calling my name.

Just in case you want to see what huitlacoche looks like, this is a picture of it before it is cooked:

Now that I see it; I am not sure I would have eaten the dish had a viewed this photo beforehand. But if the ancient Aztecs can consume then I figured that it must be something special. And let me tell you it was muy especial. The taste was just amazing. It was earthy and delicate with a hint of an umami type of essence floating across it. Usually I do not use the word earthy because often it sends the wrong kind of impression like dried cow patties roasting in a field. But this was fantabulous!!!!! In addition the squash flower enchilada was excellent too. It was delicate and robust at the same time…how is that even possible? Top these delicacies with fresh guacamole and you have a dish that you will always remember.

I feel fortunate to be able to be in Mexico and to be eating some amazing food. I have to confess that last night I went out to dinner too. This time I walked to the San Telmo restaurant and had another taste treat but I will admit, although excellent, it was typical of something you would find in a good restaurant in the USA. Check this out. Puntas De Res. Sirloin tips with in a creamy mushroom sauce served over freshly made mashed potatoes with warm fresh bread. At for $199 pesos it was amazing. A little less than $10!

So while in Mexico, I urge you to try local specialties that are outside of a typical bean burrito. There are plenty of new taste sensations to indulge in and with decent prices for really outstanding meal it pays to explore and challenge your taste buds just a little bit. You’ll be glad you did!

Best Corn I Have Ever Had-Recipe Too

Just a short post about a new taste delight.

Today we were coming back from Amealco, Mexico when Ana pulled the car over at a corn stand located on the side of the road. It was located across from a fresh juice stand on the right and a fruit seller on the left. As we walked up to the the “ma and pa” business, more cars stopped and people got out. Never had a seen such a run on corn in my life.

At this stand you could choose boiled corn or corn blackening on the grill. I chose the boiled. The owner opened the lid and again got to choose…white corn or yellow…and then the exact ear I wanted. After finding the perfect ear it was grabbed out of the hot pot and handed over to a young girl who quickly skewered it with a large wooden stick. Fresh lime was then squeezed over the entire length of the corn until the juice was dripping off the golden ear. Then a thick coat of mayonnaise was slathered on like butter on a biscuit. When the corn was white and gooey from the mayo it was then rolled in a bin of shredded cheese. Finally, it was seasoned with salt and chili lime. And this corn, something I would have turned my nose up on had I known about it has suddenly become another amazing flavor combination that is just heavenly. I hope you will try this unlikely combination and experience for yourself this amazing taste of Mexico.

The Plants In My Neighborhood

I’ll make this short and sweet tonight!

Sometimes I am in just in awe of the world around me and it’s during those times that I grab my camera and start shooting. Lately, I have found that when I take a walk around my neighborhood in Juriquilla; I am inspired by the architecture and plant life around me. While I may not know the name of what is growing up from the earth; I do know what I like. And so here is a collage of the plants I admire while on my daily walk. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

A Few Interesting Things at the Supermercado

I love the grocery stores here in Mexico. They range from the chains that we have in the USA down to small little mom and pop operations that don’t have a huge variety but their prices are often lower than in the big stores. I will say that the chain stores are clean and bright, so much so, that you could almost eat off the floor. That is what I will concentrate on today.

So here is something I discovered today. That must be some spicy bacon!

Another thing I love at the market are the fruits and veggies that you rarely see in the USA as well as the variety of juices that are available.

They also have a fresh vegetable roaster at the store. In the picture it is the cage behind the veggies.

The other day I had a taro root Frappe. It was DELICIOSO!!!! Smooth and creamy with a heavenly hand made whipped cream.Here are the juices I had this morning…melon cantalupo and a juice blend of apio, manzana, pina, cactus, naranja. I think you can tell from the containers what was in them!

One of the things that I have found very interesting in the various types of ceviche that is available here and at a walk up “bar” at the grocery store. Can’t beat that!

The bread departments are amazing and the varieties are endless. Check out this beet root bread! It’s it just beautiful. It’s times like these I wish I did not have to be gluten free!

Another thing I find quite quaint is how it appears that the Mexican people love their gelatin. I have never seen so many kinds prepared in such interesting ways. If you are a jello fan you must visit this part of Mexico.

And then you find some of the old relics from your childhood that you never thought you would find for sale again in your life! Tang comes in varieties that I never would have even dreamed of when I was a kid!

If you are looking for frozen foods in Queretaro the selection is limited. It consists mostly of ice cream, French fries, vegetables and frozen pizza. Some places carry frozen waffles and even fewer carry premade dinners like PF Chang in a bag.

There are also all sorts of speciality departments to discover in the store including san gluten, lactose free and best of all separate chocolate stores, wine shops within the store, sushi departments, jewelry, and like you can easily find in the USA…. take away meals.

I love going to the market here in Queretaro. Prices are a little lower than at home but not as much as I thought they would be. Yet, if you shop at places like the tienda de frutas you will find all sorts of fruits that are much lower priced than at the chain stores.

Here’s to shopping in Mexico. A great way to sample food and spend time practicing your Spanish! Oh and don’t forget to tip the bagger. They hire senior citizens with limited incomes who do not get paid by the store but survive off the generosity of the customers.

Maria Dolls Of Central Mexico

Here in this part of Mexico the “Maria Doll” or Mexican Rag Doll can easily be found. Sporting colorful dresses and ribbons braided into the doll’s hair, these festive moppets have a rich history that runs throughout the central region of the country. Dating back to the Colonial period in Mexico’s history; Marias were handmade by the Otomi and Mazahua communities which are located in and around Guanajuato, Michoacan and Queretaro . The modern dolls of today were soon crafted to celebrate the women street vendors who sold their wares back in the 1970’s.

Each doll is handmade and in the past clothing used by members of the household was stitched together to create each unique doll. With their winsome smiles the Marias were also thought to protect children from evil spirits.

Today Maria’s are big business and indigenous women in traditional dress can often be found in heavily touristed areas selling their dolls. And I can attest to the fact that nothing brings a smile to face of a vendor quicker then when she sells one of her dolls to a child who holds her Maria close and walks off with a big smile gracing her own face.

And look what I found in downtown Queretaro. Is this too cute or what?

The Aqueduct of Queretaro, Mexico

While the city of Queretaro is known for many historical buildings perhaps the one that holds the true key to its citizens hearts is it’s infamous and monumental aqueduct. Best of all, this massive Roman-style stone behemoth is not located in some obscure out of the way site but instead graces the city as it rides across the skyline. In fact, on one of Queretaro’s main freeways through the city you drive right under the spans! Interesting facts: Standing 93 ft tall at its highest point this ancient waterway is comprised of 74 towering arches that stretch an almost 4200 feet across Queretaro; making it one of the city’s easiest historical treasures to find.

Construction commenced around 1732 and work was completed on October 17, 1738. Legend says that the Marquis, Juan Antonio, had this constructed at the request of a Capuchin nun, with whom he was in love. She stressed that the nuns and the surrounding community needed clean water to be able to fulfill their duties. While a testament for the love of a woman makes for a wonderful story, it is more likely that Juan Antonio, funded the aqueduct to increase his personal net worth and to create a lasting legacy.

If you want to have a birdseye view of the entire aqueduct head to the observation point located across from the Pantheon of the Illustrious Queretarians. This area has several local vendors ready to sell you local souvenirs and a quick walk down the street will deliver you many small restaurants. But the main attraction to to view the aqueduct.

After this vantage point turn around and you will find the Pantheon De Los Queretanos Illustres. Built in 1847 for the Santa Cruz convent; it is now a cemetery filled with the bones and statues of some of the areas greatest leaders who fought for Mexican Independence. The Chapel of the Virgin of Sorrows stands tall within these gates and is known as the patron saint of the cemetery.

Both of these famous monuments of Queretaro should be a first stop when exploring a city rich in history, museums and lovely old churches but don’t stop there. Spend a few days here and immerse yourself. Eat the food. Enjoy the people and find out what Mexico really has to offer.