Living In Very Rural Costa Rica

If you have ever dreamed about getting away from in all…come to Costa Rica. Yes, there are resorts and San Jose, but if you really want to get lost, come to rural Guanacaste where the Brahma cows out number humans, the monkey are louder than them, and the nearest town is about twenty-five minutes away by car and 2 days if you are walking.

Yesterday, I went to the very small school down the road to see if anyone there could help me with my Spanish by talking to me a couple of hours a week and I would pay them. No one knows English, which while expected, was disappointing because even with my translator no one understood what I was really wanting. No one had to speak English just be willing to to talk to me in Spanish. If nothing else I proved to be a sizable distraction for the kids who thought my attempts at communicating in Spanish were hilarious!

It is very impoverished here but I am not sure that anyone in the valley is truly aware of it. Everyone waves and smiles, and during my walk today several people waved and answered me back after I yelled out “buenos tardes!” Tonight I plan to go down to the bingo hall and play a game or two as a benefit for a sick child in the village.

The day before they left my hosts took me into Nicoya which is the nearest “big” town. It has A McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Sigh. There are three supermarkets and a lovely town plaza full of Iguanas of all colors. I love the orange ones. Food at the supermarkets is expensive and I don’t know how the locals afford to shop. For instance a small sized Wall-Mart shredded cheese is $4 here while at home about $2. I was shocked and my heart went out to all the less-fortunate folks for whom shopping must be a cruel joke.

On Wednesday I took I & E to the airport in San Jose so they could go home to France to visit their first grand baby. I drove their truck…a six speed stick shirt. I was terrified. Why? Because no one seems to follow traffic laws, I had not driven a stick in 25 years, and I was driving in a big city.

Driving here is arduous. It is about a five-six hour trek from here one way to the airport. I don’t think it is because of the roads per se even though the first thirty minutes is spent dodging potholes the size of small continents along rutted dirt roads. No, I think it takes so long because the trucks NEVER pull over even though there are fifty cars behind them and they are going 30 mph. Add to that road work and tree trimming along the highway and the time it takes to get from here to there increases dramatically. But the scenery if truly spectacular and it was nice passing the ocean and stopping off at the butterfly farm. Unfortunately, the farm had experienced a major crisis two days before I came when birds got into the butterfly pen. Let’s just say I was told that there were numerous casualties inflicted by the invaders.

All in all my stay thus far has been a 180 degree change from my time in Mexico. It is HOT here and so very HUMID. There is no air conditioner which means I am too hot to cook and as a result I have lost 5 pounds. I am also sleeping under mosquito netting thank goodness. Yet despite all of this I developed a massive headache (which I never usually have) and my stomach feels like I have been sailing. I am hoping that I am not coming down with anything and that the tick that bit me is not some disease carrying vampire. Yes, I know, I am sounding like a whiny American and as sick as I am feeling today (now Saturday) I have earned the title. But I know that soon I will be feeling better which will improve the attitude and the whining will cease.

Rural Costa Rica-Breathtaking

So, I have been in Costa Rica for a little over 24 hours and I am experiencing a bit of culture shock. For me, the shock is not from living in a deeply rural part of the country near Nicoya but from the heat/humidity found here. I am just not used to it and it feels weird that my body constantly feels like it has been rolled in a vat of ice cream and then laid out to dry….only you never do… which means that boob rash will definitely be making an appearance soon. I feel sticky and wet and for a girl who has really never sweated in her life I have to wonder if there is such a thing as a deodorant that truly works!

The people whose home I am sitting are marvelous. They are French and moved here two years ago. They are kind and generous, make a mean rum drink, and are giving me advice about everything under the sun such as which fruits I can eat off the trees and which snakes could possibly kill me (luckily there are not THAT many) They are doing everything in their power to make me feel comfortable and for me to enjoy my experience here.

I can eat these!!! They are yummy!

The wildlife is amazing on this land. There are iguana’s of every color and size. They are quite loud when they fall out of the trees and land on the ground with a huge thud. One is also the pet who comes and begs for food. Macaws fly through the trees as do yellow-headed green parrots. Butterflies of all types float through the clouds and land on the banana trees. There are peccaries roaming the property, armadillos, and I can hear the howler monkeys on the mountain behind the house.

While there are few people there are plenty of trees. The property has Guanacastes, Bayan type trees, mangos. papaya, and a sweet lemon. Pineapple are just starting to reach their second year of growth. My hosts have really worked hard on their property and it shows.

I’ll leave you with the spectacular views that can be seen within the 14,000 hectares that I will be living amongst for the next six weeks. I hope you are as awed by them as I am.

Fly Fishing Around Terrace, BC Canada

How did I end up in Terrace, British Columbia, Canada you may be wondering? Well, I fell in love with a man dedicated to fly fishing and as a result I found a new love myself. Fly fishing in Canada is world-class and everyone comes to tell fish stories and show off their latest prize catch and then (hopefully) return it to the wild. Steelheads are the prize and they can reach gargantuan proportions .

Here is a picture of me in my waders.

We spent time fishing the Skeena River which just happens to be the second longest river complex in British Columbia. The Kitimat and the Kalam are also winding and spectacular. Here the scenery is breathtaking and wildlife abundant; while waterfalls fall over the mountains and you can count as many as you can when in the Fjords of Norway. Old growth forests dominate and birds of prey can be seen often and during all times of the day. Moose quietly run amuck and bear are thick as thieves. One day we were out collecting mushrooms and hiking up a high trail when a very loud cat growl warned as we were trespassing and we clambered down the mountain quickly. Be sure to bring bear spray when out on the trails.

We pretty much based ourselves out of Terrace which is a lovely town with a few great restaurants. Blue Fin Sushi Bar quickly became a favorite and Thornhill Pub serves up some mighty tasty beer on tap. Of coarse, Tim Horton’s coffee is amazing but so are many of the local shops. And Canadian Tire proved to be good hosts for getting water and campers often use their dump station.

Located adjacent to the George Little Park is the Skeena Valley Farmers Market where the freshest produce can be had for very reasonable prices. A big bonus is that variety of local mushrooms are endless. From Lobster to King Oysters if you are a fungi fan you can’t find a better place to find your favorites and cook them down for dinner. The market is open on Saturdays.

If you don’t want to spend your last time a fun and free thing to do is walk the city and view all the murals and artwork that can be found around downtown. This was one of my favorite pieces but with so many artistic achievements it is hard to pick a favorite. There is also the Terrace Art Gallery nearby which features local artists and is definitely worth a stop.

If you are a hiker meander up to Terrace Wolf Pack where you can view six metal life-sized wolves in natural poses. The trailhead begins at the end of Johnstone Street.

Another free experience is go mushroom hunting. Now the ones I am about to show you are mostly poisonous so DON’T EAT THEM but the sheer variety that are out there in the woods and meadows make fungi frolicking a fantastic way to spend some time.

I wish I could tell you some great fish stories myself but alas I cannot for the entire three weeks I was visiting it poured. The rivers were chocolate and often too high to fish but still we tried. But I had a great time visiting museums, hiking and learning about this beautiful wooded paradise.

One day I hope to make my way back to these parts as being on the river so much limited the amount of looking around I could do. But if you want some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, this is one of the places that I would highly recommend. Just know the weather at times can be “iffy” and bring a good book but wherever you go in the area incredible vistas will constantly slap you in the face and you will often consider pulling up stakes just to spend your remaining life in this natural wonderland.

Ahwhanee Hotel in Yosemite

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One of the great United States Park Service hotels is undoubtedly the Ahwahanee located in Yosemite National Park. Opened in 1927 it is considered to be a masterpiece of U.S. Park Service Rustic architecture and hospitality but it has also served its troops well too. Back during WWII the Ahwahanee served as a rehabilitation hospital for Naval troops with a skiing program put into place to help the soldiers regain their strength. But its greatest honor occurred in 1987 when it became one of the premier destinations on the National Historic Registry.

It really doesn’t matter what season you visit you will always find the service impeccable and the views breathtaking. Yet, if I were planning a vacation here I would avoid the summer when the place is packed and the weather is often uncomfortably hot.  Personally, my favorite time to venture here is in the winter when the Ahwhanee is all decked out for Christmas. Using ornaments and decorations from a bygone era it is step back into history.  And perhaps the most coveted ticket in this neck of the woods is the one to the annual Bracebridge dinner held during the holiday season.  Here fortunate guests travel back to Christmas past, feasting all evening on delicacies and local wines while enjoying entertainment that might have been served up in a manor in the 1600’s. So alluring is the show that people sign up years in advance for a part in the production and famed photographer Ansel Adams was once one of the performers.

One thing I love to do while here is to sign up for the Ahwahnee Tour and History walk. Here hotel experts will fill you in on how the hotel was constructed and you’ll learn interesting Hotel tidbits like the fact that the chairs in the drawing room were made to purposely tip you up towards the windows so you always have an amazing view.

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As you can plainly see the  Ahwahnee Hotel is an amazing place of natural beauty and even if you cannot get reservations you can certainly stop in for a stroll and a cool glass of ice tea. But more importantly, take the time to wander outdoors. Cross over a bridge or two and watch the mist from the waterfalls soar into the sky. And if you are lucky, you might just see some of these beautiful creatures…but don’t get too close… because Momma bear is near and she would be happy to have you for breakfast.

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Finally, one of the biggest disappoints regarding the Ahwahnee is the despicable behavior of the Delaware North corporation which operated this park until it lost its lease bid to a rival company. Unfortunately, this greedy corporation is claiming rights of ownership to the names of all of the buildings in the park and today the Ahwahnee is being renamed after almost 100 years. It is a disgrace and I refuse to refer to this hotel by anything but its original name. In fact, I urge you to join me in a boycott of Delaware North properties and airport concessions. You can also let this malicious corporation know about your displeasure of their name grab of our historic buildings by contacting Victoria Hong Director of Corporate Communications at the corporate headquarters at this email address:vhong@delawarenorth.com