The Haciendas-Oh My!

Historically, a hacienda is a huge estate brought to this area through the effort of Spanish Colonization. These vast tracks of land covered entire valleys and were responsible for agricultural enterprises and often the forced servitude of indigenous peoples. Today, many of buildings have been turned into upscale hotels and restaurants which are amazing to visit. I have been to a couple since I arrived and today I am going to share them with you.

Hacienda Laborcilla

Nested in the heart of the city of Queretaro; Laborcilla literally took my breath away. Built in the 18th century the hacienda once served as a main house for the family, a school, and even an event hall over the years. Now open to the public as a grand restaurant, the food and the atmosphere are simply magnificent. The gardens are drop dead gorgeous and the menu is divine.

I have to tell you that coffee here in Mexico is truly remarkable and when you order juice is it always fresh squeezed. It is an amazing way to start your day… combined with the basket of fresh pastries that was brought our table almost immediately upon being seated.

For breakfast I had enchiladas suiza which were filled with chicken breast and cheese topped with bacon. It was an amazing desayuno.

But while the food was excellent I will have to say that it is the atmosphere that people come here for. It is a place you will never forget and stunning doesn’t begin to describe it. There are orchids everywhere and butterflies float around your table as your eat. Here is the first impression upon entering.

There were many themed dining rooms throughout Laborcilla and all were amazing to step into with gorgeous Asian, Egyptian and Greek Antiques, as well as reproductions, in every nook and cranny. Just so much to feast on with the eyes and not enough time.

Here is a short video of the Club Room

What I learned from this experience is always say !!!!YES!!!! when someone invites you to breakfast in Mexico because you never know what wonderful things await you.

THE HOTEL MISION GRAND JURIQUILLA

The first former hacienda I visited is now a grand hotel called the Hotel Mision Grand Juriquilla. It’s another 18th century hacienda which has been beautifully restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant. With a historic church on the grounds and landscaping that makes you want to hire their head gardener, Hotel Mision is a place that you can easily call home when traveling. Take a look for yourself.

I have been told that there are so many beautiful historical haciendas throughout the country that I am thinking that I might just make it a goal of mine to visit each and every one. With so much charm and the fact that these amazing buildings just ooze history; visiting a hacienda today is like a trip back in time combined with the elegance of today, which, makes visiting these historic sites land at the top of my bucket list while in Mexico.

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

Another Corn Post…Who Would Have Thought!

Tonight I went out to dinner with several local women. It was a fantastic evening and we went to the Natica Plaza which is located on a small lake in Juriquilla. The scenery is beautiful and reminded me of Lake Como but 1000 times smaller.

The restaurant was right on the water and it was a beautiful cool evening. Everything about this night was perfecto including the company. The drinks were pretty wonderful too.

Since I have been here in Mexico I have heard (and seen in the supermarcado) something about a corn that develops a kind of moldy fungus on it. Since I love ice wine which is developed from grapes that are affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot); I thought that I might want to try this delicacy too.

Well, tonight at Los Patos I was delighted to find that one of their specialities was a quesadilla combination featuring three different kinds: mushrooms and cheese, squash flower and huitlacoche (smut corn) and queso. You have to admit with a name like smut corn… that you can’t possibly go wrong! It is a very particular type of corn that grows this fungus and there I was starring at a blessed menu with this taste treat calling my name.

Just in case you want to see what huitlacoche looks like, this is a picture of it before it is cooked:

Now that I see it; I am not sure I would have eaten the dish had a viewed this photo beforehand. But if the ancient Aztecs can consume then I figured that it must be something special. And let me tell you it was muy especial. The taste was just amazing. It was earthy and delicate with a hint of an umami type of essence floating across it. Usually I do not use the word earthy because often it sends the wrong kind of impression like dried cow patties roasting in a field. But this was fantabulous!!!!! In addition the squash flower enchilada was excellent too. It was delicate and robust at the same time…how is that even possible? Top these delicacies with fresh guacamole and you have a dish that you will always remember.

I feel fortunate to be able to be in Mexico and to be eating some amazing food. I have to confess that last night I went out to dinner too. This time I walked to the San Telmo restaurant and had another taste treat but I will admit, although excellent, it was typical of something you would find in a good restaurant in the USA. Check this out. Puntas De Res. Sirloin tips with in a creamy mushroom sauce served over freshly made mashed potatoes with warm fresh bread. At for $199 pesos it was amazing. A little less than $10!

So while in Mexico, I urge you to try local specialties that are outside of a typical bean burrito. There are plenty of new taste sensations to indulge in and with decent prices for really outstanding meal it pays to explore and challenge your taste buds just a little bit. You’ll be glad you did!

My Taste Buds Exploded In Delight

Today I think I had one of my best meals ever. No, it wasn’t consumed in a fancy restaurant but instead in a department store dining hall. Why was it one of the best? Not necessarily because the food was the yummiest that I ever had but because there was an entire explosion of unique tastes in my mouth. There were more flavors combined together than I have ever experienced before and each part of the meal was a combustion of innovation .

First up was the drink that came with lunch. It was refreshing and amazing at the same time.

it was called a non-alcholic Acapulco Mocktail. Imagine strawberry (fresa), pineapple (Pina), coconut (coco) cream and peach (melacoton) garnished with candied pineapple. But what made it truly remarkable was the lime/chili/coconut salt around the rim. It totally changed the entire flavor of the juices from good to memorable!

The next thing up on this three course lunch was a mushroom soup topped with tortilla strips cut so thin you could almost see through them. But what made this so unique was that instead of the typical cream of mushroom soup one thinks of when considering this sort of fare; this soup had a deep rich base with the essence of chilis. Now as a person who has never been particularly fond of chili I have to say that this was quite a surprise that the spice could actually enhance a dish rather than detract from it. I know…it looks like a bowl of chili but tastes nothing like it.

After the soup came the biggest surprise of all… the “pièce de résistance” …. Chile Hojaaldrado. Imagine something like a chile relleno with a filling made of beef, garlic, onions and who knows what else. Then take this all this goodness and stuff it all into a puff pastry. Then surround the “relleno” with a cream sauce consisting of pomegranate, a slight bit of cinnamon, and other unidentifiable heavenly ingredients. Ahhhhh this combination of flavors is like nothing I have ever tasted in my entire life and I am getting to the age where I could drop over dead at anytime so I am so pleased that I lived to have the pleasure of this dish!

While this meal was a bit pricey at $329 MXP (about $16) for me it was worth every penny. As I said I ate this incredible lunch at a big “department” store called Liverpool in the Antea Mall; which is one of the biggest malls in Latin America. The food area is on the 5th floor and there is a huge variety to choose from. Pizza, sushi, burgers, traditional Mexican food, sandwiches, flan, gorgeous pastries, breads and excellent wines served bar style can all be consumed here. This may not be what you think of when you think Mexico but lunch today will probably be one of the most memorable that I will experience as I transverse the continent.

Great Food From Around The World

I have to say that I have had some very good food in my travels. Most were fairly inexpensive food choices but a few came at quite a cost. I have found that I usually prefer the cheap eats except when it comes to anything YAK….YUCK!

The best meal that comes to mind was had in a small village in Thailand. We had been treking when I lost the lubricating fluid in my knees. Every step that I took ground bone on bone and it was excruciating. I walked one step at a time with tears rolling down my face. It got so bad that the guide, Boone, had his other guide take everyone else up ahead to the small village we would be staying in that night. Meanwhile, Boone, carried my pack and stayed with me as I hobbled along. Finally, when we arrived there was an amazing dinner awaiting. It was fresh vegetables and tofu. Yep, that is it. My best meal ever. I don’t know if it was because I was so relieved to get to the huts that I was intensely grateful for everything or if I was just starving but never had a plate looked so inviting.

While we were in Thailand this past April I visited another restaurant and also took a cooking class from them. The name of the place is the Blue Elephant and the restaurant is located in the former governors mansion. We had a multi-course dinner that was fit for kings. It consisted of Avocado Black Diamond Scallops, Red Curry, Tiger Prawns and Eggplant Salad and some other memorable taste marvels. And the decor was just beautiful.

The best Enchiladas I have ever eaten was in The Netherlands. The place was on the coast of the country in the town of Scheveningen. I have long ago forgotten the name of the place but I can still remember their cream cheese enchiladas like it was yesterday. It was a gastronomic highlight to my trip. However, today I was taken to a place that the people I am housesitting love and I can say without a doubt best Mexican food I have ever eaten. The roadside restaurant is called Tacos Vias and it’s on the road to Bernal. You choose whether you want blue (Azul) tacos or blanco (white) masa. The lady scoops a bit of dough, pats it into shape and then throws it on the grill. You then take the plate have them put the topping on. I had beans and cheese. Then added meat, potatoes, and carrots cooked in a sauce and then laid on a nice bit of mango and cucumber salsa. Here’s a look:

A big surprise to me in my food experiences was when I ate at the Pingvinen in Bergen, Norway. Reindeer stew with salted lamb, sausage and root veggies was a new taste that my palate was not sure about while their cured reindeer marinated in lingonberries and gin was a real treat. One thing I can say was that I believed the food that was served was traditional and could be found in the coldest and smallest of villages throughout the country.

Bergen had a surprising number of fantastic places to eat including Kogi which I can honestly say had the best Korean food I have ever eaten including what I ate in Korea. The bulgogi was stupendous as was the pa-jeon. The owner was extremely friendly and gave me the recipe for her secret sauce and the dishes I sampled were divine. There was also a Burmese restaurant that we stumbled upon called Mandalay Sushi and Burmese. (Pics- Brown Cheese Dessert, Cured Reindeer, Lapskaus Stew; along with Pajeon from Kogi in bottom left corner, the menu from Pingvinen.

Places I have eaten have given me inspiration for my own cooking but nothing as much as street food in various countries. I love the corn on the cob in 12 different flavors that you find in China. This man peddling his food in the water town of  Zhouzhuang pulled the best sweet potato I have ever had off of his cart and handed it to me all hot and steamy. I also contributed to that pile of eggs sitting outside the two seater hole-in-the-wall that we ate at. 

The best desserts I ever ate were in Prague and for the life of me I cannot tell you the name of of the place but it was in the historic downtown about two blocks from the Clocktower. Maybe if you are lucky you can read the napkin which I cannot. The last picture is the fabulous bread pudding served at St. Orres on the California coast up by Gualala. This Russian inspired restaurant is one of the most beautiful on the coast and the food is always great. Look at these delights and just drool. 

Some of the drinks that stand out in mind include a particular blueberry cream smash found at the Bergens Tidende but for great drinks AND spectacular scenery I still believe that you can’t beat Nepenthe Restaurant off Highway One at Big Sir, California. Taking in the view with a lovely drink in your hand makes you believe that all is well with the world.

Oh and I guess this would not be complete with chocolate. Ethel M in Las Vegas is hands down my favorite chocolatier but a close second has got to Lakrids by Bulow Salty Caramel Chocolate Coated Licorice. I never particularly liked licorice until I tasted these dolls! Their Passion Fruit White Chocolate Coated Licorice is even better! (You can order Lakrids on Amazon!)

So there you have it. Some of my most memorable places I have eaten. I hope while I am here in Mexico to be able to add to this list. My plan is to take a cooking class while I am here in order to learn a bit more about what makes this country so spicy and delicioso.

Beijing Street Food

I love street food. Just smelling it, looking at it and tasting it makes me giddy with anticipation and pleasure. I just know my taste buds are going to rejoice and do the “happy dance” as these flavors hit my tongue. From the hot red bean cakes found in Seoul to the jack fruit I tasted in Chiang Mai; there is something exciting about supporting vendors who have found their niche in the world of food.

One of the best places I have ever found for street food is in Beijing. Rows and rows of vendors some selling directly from their carts along with the lucky few who have a few tables for their best customers; this is a place where just about any food can be found. This is a place where food is plentiful and cheap…very cheap. If you are on a budget, street food should be your culinary horn of plenty.

But any words I could possibly say about this experience would be bland, like food without spice, wine or salt. So instead I leave you with these pictures of Beijing street food so you can “taste” them yourself.

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The most flavorful dates I have ever eaten

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Corn anyway you like it

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And they say the Iowa State Fair has everything on a stick…I beg to differ!

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Namdaemun Market-Seoul, South Korea

Lately, with globalization around every corner it is hard to go somewhere and not think to yourself that the whole world now looks alike.  Window shopping at Pottery Barn looks the same in Kansas City, Calgary and Sydney. That is the point, I suppose, but for a traveler it is just plain depressing. Where is the unique to the place items and where are the  local customs…Often you begin to wonder …where the hell are we?????… in this oh-so identical world.

That is what I love about Namdaemun Market. Opened in Seoul in 1964 it is the largest market in Korea but it really dates back to the reign of King Taejong where it operated as a government managed marketplace. This place is truly the SEOUL of the city.

While there are certainly an overabundance of crass commercially made products it is the pulse of the place that draws you into the market and into Korea herself. Some of the best street food can be found here including  noodle dishes, pungent kim chee, hottoek and comforting warm red bean cakes. Follow an alleyway to the place where you find the most Koreans sitting on shallow stools, chopsticks and bowl in hand. This is where you want to enjoy an authentic lunch.

Because the market was built so long ago it is predominately a walking market. While you will see motorcycles delivering goods and boxes being transported by wooden carriers strapped to the backs of men smaller than the load they are carrying; this is a place to explore at your leisure and just soak up the sounds.

Here  at Namdaemun you can shop for such things as rare ginseng, fresh fish, raincoats, shoes and even silkworms to be eaten for lunch. Traditional clothing (hanboks) can be found in a variety of bright colors and styles along with Korea’s world famous celadon pottery. Beautiful wrapping papers, paint pigments and calligraphy supplies are also easily found along with the paintings of various artists. But my favorite are the luxurious silks and tapestries that can be found within. The variety of what is sold here is enormous and there is always something you “need” to take home with you.

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Just outside the market lies Sungnyemun Gate. It is one of the eight gates that were located in the fortress wall that surrounded Seoul. It is a wooden pagoda style building that dates back to the 14th century and has stood there ever since until an arson fire burnt part of the gate in 2008. It was restored and was re-opened in 2013.

To get to the market take the green subway line (number 4) to Hoehyeon Station. It is a short escalator ride up the the market.

Best Restaurant On The Beach-Cook Islands

Sure you can dine on many a swanky spot along the beach in many parts of the world but for spectacular dining at a decent price it is hard to beat Vaima Polynesian Bar and Restaurant outside Rarotonga in the picture perfect Cook Islands.

Arrive early for steps from the ocean seating with glorious sunsets and the lull of the waves lapping near your feet the ambiance doesn’t get much better than this. As night falls you may spot ghost crabs as they scuttle along in the sand and the stars will align to produce a spectacular natural show.

Vaima serves the best mango daiquiri I have ever tasted. Pair it with the establishments signature salt and pepper calamari served with hot and sour dipping sauce and you will be soon drooling for a second helping of both. Of course, you can never go wrong with the catch of the day which was plucked fresh from the ocean just hours prior. Orange glazed lamb was another favorite.

Come for the atmosphere and stay for the food should be the slogan of this charming eatery. And with the Cook Islands as your daily playground, well, it really doesn’t get much better than this.

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Money Saving Hint: From the United States if you fly with Air New Zealand you should be able to get a free stopover in Auckland. To get this you must book through the airline. It is a great deal if it is still available. Doesn’t hurt to ask!

Rhonda Spain

When I think of Spain the first city that comes to mind is Rhonda. I love this mountaintop place and its vistas. The food, the weather, the town itself and the scrappy hills beyond. Everything about it is amazing and it holds fond yet distinct memories.

Julius Caesar kindly designated Rhonda a city  in late 4 A.D. The village of about 35,000 sits atop a gorge so high that when you cross the Puente Nuevo bridge you hold your breath for fear that the weight of that one breath could send it tumbling down into the ravine. The bridge, begun in 1793, is one of the most dramatic byways I have ever seen with a 352 foot drop. Stunning and spectacular it is something that must be seen to believed if not tiptoed across.

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Parador de Rhonda Cliffside on left

We stayed at the historic Parador de Rhonda a clifftop hotel which overlooks the town. Housed in the old former town hall our two-level room was magnificent with parents upstairs and children sleeping below. Both the views and the building took my breath away. The pool was pretty great too.

While it has been a while since I have been to the Parador, I remember being pampered, my wish list honored, the warm sun on my face and great food. Food that took hours to consume with whispers of “other” languages filling the air as people took the time to chat, sip and let the hours slip by. That is one of the things I love about Europe…how people take the time with their food …to savor and really enjoy it. To make eating an art instead of a necessary chore and by doing so honor those who so lovingly take the time to prepare it perfectly.

I remember tapas cooked to perfection…not soggy…but with the perfect bit of moistness that hit your tongue before the steamy, rich food itself. Morcilla sausage with texture and body and a smooth taste (yes, sausage!) Sangria that sucked the parch straight out of you with its first breath upon yours. Food that was regional, good for you and left you wanting to try everything on the local menus so you would’t feel like you had missed out on a thing.

And unlike many European cities the square was beautiful and so clean you could almost lick that spilled Rojas off the ground.

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Next Time: The Bullfighting Ring and Pileta Caves