San Juan Del Sur – Nicaragua

Going to Nicaragua is a different experience. We had to leave the truck behind, pay exit fees at the Costa Rican border, walk a distance in the ” NO MAN’S LAND” which lies between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, pay $1 outside of the Nicaragua customs building, stand in line for about 20 minutes to get to see a customs official, pay another $13 (I think), have our luggage scanned and then exit the building walk about 300 meters to the Alamo Car Rental.

Driving is easy as they drive on the same side of the road as in the USA but what struck me first were two things: beautiful trees on both sides of the road created a beautiful green canopy as we drove. It was gorgeous and reminded me of the East Coast. The second thing that I found interesting is as we traveled down the main highway (NO POTHOLES!!! unlike Costa Rica) there were cows and horses tied up to the fences all a long the road. It was amazing.

It is only about a 45 minute drive from the border to San Juan Del Sur. It is an old beach town that is slowly getting discovered by tourists but retains its gritty but sweet character from years gone by. We were located at the bay but there are beautiful beaches all around the area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and what a gorgeous sunset it was. This is a real fishing town so watching the boats head out to sea and return with family waiting for them is a reminder of that “waiting history” that fishing hubs around the world have experienced for eons.

Night time is interesting here as there are beach volleyball games with families watching the kids do their thing. Horses meander along side the water and parrots squawk in the trees. The town basically rolls up the sidewalk at 8 pm as families walking hand-in-hand head back to home.

The next couple of days were a blur. We walked the town peeking in shops and enjoying the street markets. Grills were set up on the street where you could buy pollo and rice for about $2-3 bucks. I loved watching the women and men carrying their wares on their heads, the buzz of the street market, and the kindness of the people we talked to along the way. Everyone was friendly and put up with my attempts at speaking Spanish, often teaching me a word or two along the way.

We also visited the local park and church which is incredibly beautiful in its simplicity. In addition, you can’t help but view The Christ of the Mercy which is a colossal statue of Jesus Christ which rises to a height of 134m above sea level and can be seen throughout the town.

While here we took time to look at real estate that is for sale in the area. Take a look at this three-bedroom beauty which was selling for $459,000 with pristine teak woodwork and views that were amazing. One of my favorite was a small villa in a gated pool community which was selling for $140,000 with HOA’s of $400 per month

If you know me; you know I love a good mural. From the out-of-this world type of paintings to the murals that can bring tears to your eyes; San Juan del Sur has plenty of talented artists offering up their best.

I loved San Juan Del Sur and who knows I might end up there one day. But for now I leave you with the local high school band practicing on the Main Street of the town.

Living In Very Rural Costa Rica

If you have ever dreamed about getting away from in all…come to Costa Rica. Yes, there are resorts and San Jose, but if you really want to get lost, come to rural Guanacaste where the Brahma cows out number humans, the monkey are louder than them, and the nearest town is about twenty-five minutes away by car and 2 days if you are walking.

Yesterday, I went to the very small school down the road to see if anyone there could help me with my Spanish by talking to me a couple of hours a week and I would pay them. No one knows English, which while expected, was disappointing because even with my translator no one understood what I was really wanting. No one had to speak English just be willing to to talk to me in Spanish. If nothing else I proved to be a sizable distraction for the kids who thought my attempts at communicating in Spanish were hilarious!

It is very impoverished here but I am not sure that anyone in the valley is truly aware of it. Everyone waves and smiles, and during my walk today several people waved and answered me back after I yelled out “buenos tardes!” Tonight I plan to go down to the bingo hall and play a game or two as a benefit for a sick child in the village.

The day before they left my hosts took me into Nicoya which is the nearest “big” town. It has A McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Sigh. There are three supermarkets and a lovely town plaza full of Iguanas of all colors. I love the orange ones. Food at the supermarkets is expensive and I don’t know how the locals afford to shop. For instance a small sized Wall-Mart shredded cheese is $4 here while at home about $2. I was shocked and my heart went out to all the less-fortunate folks for whom shopping must be a cruel joke.

On Wednesday I took I & E to the airport in San Jose so they could go home to France to visit their first grand baby. I drove their truck…a six speed stick shirt. I was terrified. Why? Because no one seems to follow traffic laws, I had not driven a stick in 25 years, and I was driving in a big city.

Driving here is arduous. It is about a five-six hour trek from here one way to the airport. I don’t think it is because of the roads per se even though the first thirty minutes is spent dodging potholes the size of small continents along rutted dirt roads. No, I think it takes so long because the trucks NEVER pull over even though there are fifty cars behind them and they are going 30 mph. Add to that road work and tree trimming along the highway and the time it takes to get from here to there increases dramatically. But the scenery if truly spectacular and it was nice passing the ocean and stopping off at the butterfly farm. Unfortunately, the farm had experienced a major crisis two days before I came when birds got into the butterfly pen. Let’s just say I was told that there were numerous casualties inflicted by the invaders.

All in all my stay thus far has been a 180 degree change from my time in Mexico. It is HOT here and so very HUMID. There is no air conditioner which means I am too hot to cook and as a result I have lost 5 pounds. I am also sleeping under mosquito netting thank goodness. Yet despite all of this I developed a massive headache (which I never usually have) and my stomach feels like I have been sailing. I am hoping that I am not coming down with anything and that the tick that bit me is not some disease carrying vampire. Yes, I know, I am sounding like a whiny American and as sick as I am feeling today (now Saturday) I have earned the title. But I know that soon I will be feeling better which will improve the attitude and the whining will cease.

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.