Category: Historical

Cuernavaca, Mexico

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One of my favorite adventures in Mexico was our visit to Cuernavaca. While I loved the one-hour drive through the mountains from Mexico City, parts of which reminded me of Colorado or Flagstaff; I did not enjoy my first experience driving in Mexico City. On the one hand, you have to be Mario Andretti and push the peddle to the metal to squeeze into spaces the size of a dime in front of the one hundred cars whose drivers have the same idea as you, but on the other hand, you have to have the patience of a saint to know when to be cautious as you fight twenty-three million city dwellers for your right to be on the road when no one follows what should be common sense traffic rules. Seriously, it’s like being in intense labor ready to deliver while driving…everything is just coming at you at once! But enough of that…let’s head to Cuernavaca.

Cuernavaca is the capital of the state of Morelos. What brought us to this place was the Palace of Cortez but what we found was so much more than we ever imagined. Built somewhere between 1523-1528 by the conqueror Hernan Cortez, the palace is the oldest conserved colonial era civil complex within the Americas. And while all that information is interesting what really brought Michael and I here were the Diego Rivera murals that decorate the upstairs floors. Little did we know there was a museum connected to the property which housed more than just the magnificent wall art.

With an entrance fee of about $5 USD it is certainly a bargain in this day of $10-20 fees in the USA. The first floor contains artifacts from the ancient civilizations that flourished in this land. It’s a nice collection for a museum of this size.

But what we had really come to see involved climbing quite a few steps to the balcony level which includes a magnificent view of the city and the countryside which surrounds it. That alone was almost worth the climb.

But the piece de resistance were the murals and when we turned the corner our breaths were literally taken away and not just from the stair climb! Commissioned by the US Ambassador to Mexico, Dwight Murrow, Rivera himself chose the subject. of the murals…the history of the invasion of Mexico by the Spanish…and he holds nothing back. They are truly spectacular!

If you are a Diego Rivera fan this is one place you need to check out!

From the Palace of Cortez we walked down the cobble streets, ducking into an alley and surprised ourselves by finding an incredible taco place. I wish I could remember the name but here is the view from the upstairs of the eatery.

From there we meandered the streets arriving at the Catedral de Cuernavaca also known as the Templo de la Asuncion de Maria. Work was started by the Franciscans using indigenous forced labor in 1526 and the religious complex also houses the Templo de la Tercera Orden de San Francisco (pink) and the Capilla del Carmen (yellow) . At the left side of the Catedral is the Museo de Arte Sacro which showcases close to 100 paintings, sculptures, and religious artifacts from the 16th to 20th centuries.

From here we wandered further… passing the theatre and library until we arrived at a food festival in the middle of the historic square. It was fantastic and we enjoyed seeing various regional foods from all over the country. Unfortunately, due to time constraints we missed the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Archaeological Zone of Xochicalco

Being drawn further in by all the spices and herbs wafting as we passed by booth after booth was the perfect way to end our day in Cuernavaca. I hope someday you will get to walk the streets of this enchanting city yourself to experience small city charm in a very big way.

Panama City, Panama

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Casco Viejo (or Old Town) is an amazingly beautiful part of Panama City. French and Spanish Colonial architecture combine to create a section of the city that is living its best life. Once known as Panama Viejo, the waterside port was established in 1519 but was destroyed in 1671 by the pirate Henry Morgan. Today is area is being revitalized and features old churches, great restaurants, and small shops. Best of all the ocean water belts cool breezes which flow like a gentle mists throughout the ancient streets. Frankly, the town reminds me a little of New Orleans with a lot more punch.

One of the things I loved about Old Town was the alleyways with hats, or flags, or copies of ancient embroidery hanging from upper window to upper window on both sides of the street. This part of Panama City always has something to be enchanted by and it makes your heart skip a beat when you turn a corner and find something unexpected and charming.

Since I am still having computer issues I am doing a computer dump of some of my pictures so you can get your own idea of the city. Enjoy!

Flags hanging cross the street
Catedral Metropolitana
Catedral Metropolitana
Street of Native Flags
Indigenous Women Selling Their Crafts
Street of Hats
Old Time Cigar Shop

A Few Of My Favorite Things

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As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

Queretaro
Queretaro
El Pueblito

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

Queretaro
San Miguel
Juriquilla

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

Amealco

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

Juriquilla
Juriquilla
Queretaro-Plaza de Armus
Bernal
Queretaro
On My Street

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

San Miguel
Town of El Pueblito
Town Of El Pueblito
Town of El Pueblito

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

Queretaro
Queretaro

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

Queretaro
San Miguel
SAn Miguel
Queretaro
Queretaro
San Miguel
Queretaro

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

Queretaro
San Miguel
Queretaro

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo- 1697
Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral
VILLAS DEL MESON

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

Roasted Corn Soup
Various Breakfast Breads
Fried Bananas With Passion Fruit Ice Cream
Corn dripping in lime, slathered in mayo and rolled in cheese
Chili Nagoya
Huitlacoche
Arroz Con Leche
Shrimp, Mango, Avocado, Coconut Fusion
Traditional Food

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.

THE CHURCHES-LIFE OF THE CITY

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I have been to so many churches since I arrived here. I love the architecture that these old buildings possess. The artwork, murals, painted ceilings, and biblical depictions are all inspiring (okay, a few are frightening) and help us have an insight to those things that drew people to the Catholic Church in earlier times. The thick walls of the church also provide a respite from the heat and also from life’s troubles. Perhaps what I enjoy the most though is just walking in, sitting down, and listening to the music and the chants echo off the walls of the sanctuary. It gives me a sense of peace and serenity that I can carry with me the entire day.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel- San Miguel Allende

With over 40 churches in San Miguel it is difficult to choose a favorite but Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is definitely the most well known and perhaps the most beloved of area residents. Towering over the city, the construction of the church began in the 1600’s under the auspices of the Franciscan Friars, after a smaller church from the 1500’s was demolished. The building is a surprising blend of different Neo-Gothic European influences and the resulting Spanish colonization that swept over these lands. This immense church was completed in stages at various points in history but it was when a local master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez, began construction of the current facade in 1880 that the Neo-Gothic architecture was put into place. Gutierrez had no drawings to guide him and he designed Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel after seeing pictures of the great cathedrals in Europe. To think that one man had such vision as to be able to change the entire feel of a city just amazes me.

The interior of the main building is vast. Yet, there are several different less imposing chapels including the Chapel of the Third Order with frescoes throughout which depict the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

The Chapel of the Third Order

Across from Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a city plaza with tall shade trees and park benches. It is here that you can truly feel the vibe of San Miguel and absorb the influence of the city and the locals who surround you. So take a load off…sit…listen to the church bells ring across the valley…and let yourself sink into a nation that still reveres its history and the people who still help to influence it today.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito

Another Church that I fell in love with was located in the town of Pueblito and is known as the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito. It is the church that I mentioned in my post about El Cerrito, The Pyramid of Pueblito, and it is the one that you are suppose to be able to hear the sermon from the pulpit all the way up the hill.

This church is much smaller then the one mentioned in San Miguel and it has it’s own special kind of charm that is quaint yet powerful which is evidenced by the faithful who attend daily mass.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito had its beginnings in 1632 when Friar Nicolas Zamora placed the image of Immaculate Conception near the temple where he built the first adobe structure to house her. Approval for the present day building was granted in 1720 and construction was completed in 1750. Religious festivals for Mary are mainly celebrated in mid-February when the town comes alive. However, when we were there last week, the life-size body of the Virgin, was displayed below the altar where the faithful believed that the next day she would be lifted up to heaven.

While small this church has so much to see and admire its the people whose dedication impressed me. When we were there a painter was hanging off a ladder busy painting the nave while services for the Virgin were ongoing during this week of celebration and the church was being cleaned top to bottom.

I think one of the things that made me aware of the dichotomy of past times and the modern demands of today was this sign I spied within the inner courtyard of the church. I will admit I chuckled out loud. I hope you enjoy it and a smile graces your face too.

The Haciendas-Oh My!

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Historically, a hacienda is a huge estate brought to this area through the effort of Spanish Colonization. These vast tracks of land covered entire valleys and were responsible for agricultural enterprises and often the forced servitude of indigenous peoples. Today, many of buildings have been turned into upscale hotels and restaurants which are amazing to visit. I have been to a couple since I arrived and today I am going to share them with you.

Hacienda Laborcilla

Nested in the heart of the city of Queretaro; Laborcilla literally took my breath away. Built in the 18th century the hacienda once served as a main house for the family, a school, and even an event hall over the years. Now open to the public as a grand restaurant, the food and the atmosphere are simply magnificent. The gardens are drop dead gorgeous and the menu is divine.

I have to tell you that coffee here in Mexico is truly remarkable and when you order juice is it always fresh squeezed. It is an amazing way to start your day… combined with the basket of fresh pastries that was brought our table almost immediately upon being seated.

For breakfast I had enchiladas suiza which were filled with chicken breast and cheese topped with bacon. It was an amazing desayuno.

But while the food was excellent I will have to say that it is the atmosphere that people come here for. It is a place you will never forget and stunning doesn’t begin to describe it. There are orchids everywhere and butterflies float around your table as your eat. Here is the first impression upon entering.

There were many themed dining rooms throughout Laborcilla and all were amazing to step into with gorgeous Asian, Egyptian and Greek Antiques, as well as reproductions, in every nook and cranny. Just so much to feast on with the eyes and not enough time.

Here is a short video of the Club Room

What I learned from this experience is always say !!!!YES!!!! when someone invites you to breakfast in Mexico because you never know what wonderful things await you.

THE HOTEL MISION GRAND JURIQUILLA

The first former hacienda I visited is now a grand hotel called the Hotel Mision Grand Juriquilla. It’s another 18th century hacienda which has been beautifully restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant. With a historic church on the grounds and landscaping that makes you want to hire their head gardener, Hotel Mision is a place that you can easily call home when traveling. Take a look for yourself.

I have been told that there are so many beautiful historical haciendas throughout the country that I am thinking that I might just make it a goal of mine to visit each and every one. With so much charm and the fact that these amazing buildings just ooze history; visiting a hacienda today is like a trip back in time combined with the elegance of today, which, makes visiting these historic sites land at the top of my bucket list while in Mexico.

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

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One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

Another Corn Post…Who Would Have Thought!

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Tonight I went out to dinner with several local women. It was a fantastic evening and we went to the Natica Plaza which is located on a small lake in Juriquilla. The scenery is beautiful and reminded me of Lake Como but 1000 times smaller.

The restaurant was right on the water and it was a beautiful cool evening. Everything about this night was perfecto including the company. The drinks were pretty wonderful too.

Since I have been here in Mexico I have heard (and seen in the supermarcado) something about a corn that develops a kind of moldy fungus on it. Since I love ice wine which is developed from grapes that are affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot); I thought that I might want to try this delicacy too.

Well, tonight at Los Patos I was delighted to find that one of their specialities was a quesadilla combination featuring three different kinds: mushrooms and cheese, squash flower and huitlacoche (smut corn) and queso. You have to admit with a name like smut corn… that you can’t possibly go wrong! It is a very particular type of corn that grows this fungus and there I was starring at a blessed menu with this taste treat calling my name.

Just in case you want to see what huitlacoche looks like, this is a picture of it before it is cooked:

Now that I see it; I am not sure I would have eaten the dish had a viewed this photo beforehand. But if the ancient Aztecs can consume then I figured that it must be something special. And let me tell you it was muy especial. The taste was just amazing. It was earthy and delicate with a hint of an umami type of essence floating across it. Usually I do not use the word earthy because often it sends the wrong kind of impression like dried cow patties roasting in a field. But this was fantabulous!!!!! In addition the squash flower enchilada was excellent too. It was delicate and robust at the same time…how is that even possible? Top these delicacies with fresh guacamole and you have a dish that you will always remember.

I feel fortunate to be able to be in Mexico and to be eating some amazing food. I have to confess that last night I went out to dinner too. This time I walked to the San Telmo restaurant and had another taste treat but I will admit, although excellent, it was typical of something you would find in a good restaurant in the USA. Check this out. Puntas De Res. Sirloin tips with in a creamy mushroom sauce served over freshly made mashed potatoes with warm fresh bread. At for $199 pesos it was amazing. A little less than $10!

So while in Mexico, I urge you to try local specialties that are outside of a typical bean burrito. There are plenty of new taste sensations to indulge in and with decent prices for really outstanding meal it pays to explore and challenge your taste buds just a little bit. You’ll be glad you did!

Maria Dolls Of Central Mexico

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Here in this part of Mexico the “Maria Doll” or Mexican Rag Doll can easily be found. Sporting colorful dresses and ribbons braided into the doll’s hair, these festive moppets have a rich history that runs throughout the central region of the country. Dating back to the Colonial period in Mexico’s history; Marias were handmade by the Otomi and Mazahua communities which are located in and around Guanajuato, Michoacan and Queretaro . The modern dolls of today were soon crafted to celebrate the women street vendors who sold their wares back in the 1970’s.

Each doll is handmade and in the past clothing used by members of the household was stitched together to create each unique doll. With their winsome smiles the Marias were also thought to protect children from evil spirits.

Today Maria’s are big business and indigenous women in traditional dress can often be found in heavily touristed areas selling their dolls. And I can attest to the fact that nothing brings a smile to face of a vendor quicker then when she sells one of her dolls to a child who holds her Maria close and walks off with a big smile gracing her own face.

And look what I found in downtown Queretaro. Is this too cute or what?

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

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This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.

Nisga’a Museum-Laxgalt, ap BC Canada

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One of the best small museums I have ever visited is the Nisga’a in British Columbia. The architecture of the building which highlights the natural beauty of traditional tribal lands along with the highly curated and informative exhibits will surely take your breath away and give you a new sense of appreciation for traditional First Nation history and practices.

To get to the multiple galleries one enters through a replica of a longhouse. I suggest entering more than once to really get a feeling of what is being conveyed and to be able to experience the feast for your eyes that surrounds you.

The first gallery is known as the Transformation Gallery. Here you will find a huge collection of spirit masks (naxnok) and costumes that were used to the tell the stories of spirits and their role in society.

After exiting this colorful gallery you are directed to the Shaman’s Gallery (Halayt Gallery) which emphasizes the role of the Shaman in society and displays items used to call and direct the supernatural.

The Museum also contains several more galleries which discuss the history of the Nisga’a, the possessions of the people, laws and customs, as well as showcasing daily life of the tribe and individuals roles within it. Headdresses, bentwood boxes and rattles are just a few of the exquisite things that will be seen as you meander through. Be sure to take some time to explore as this is not an educational center to rush through.

One of the best things about this museum is the kindness of staff who will patiently answer or will find the answer to any question you might have. These are individuals who are immensely proud of their culture/heritage and want to be sure that everyone who leaves takes a bit of that appreciation with them.

Finally, be sure to check out the gift shop where local artists have their works on display and where you can also find further information about the indigenous people throughout the region.

There is a small entrance fee. Families pay $22, adults, $8 and children $5. The museum is open from Early May through the end of October on Wednesdays through Sundays from 10 am until 5 pm. It is located at: 810 Highway Drive, Lax̱g̱altsʼap, British Columbia, Canada. For further information call 1 (250) 633- 3050.