The Embera’ of Panamá

Today I visited the indigenous people known as the Embera, who have lived within the forest of Eastern Panama for thousands of years. Surviving primarily through fishing and growing various crops; the Embera’ now earn a living by educating tourists as to their way of life over many millennia.

Arriving at the river we were greeted by men in traditional clothing and ushered into dugout canoes for our journey up the waterways.

Our adventure really began as we ventured onto the river’s tributaries spying huge neon blue butterflies drifting along the banks, blue herons standing on their tall skinny legs around the waters edge, and small waterfalls sliding down the hills. Finally, we arrived at the biggest waterfall in the area where we had to clamber along slippery rocks in order to enjoy its fine mist and thundering show. The sacredness of this beautiful place was not lost on anybody.

After experiencing the earth’s natural tranquilities we headed to the Embera’ village where we listened to an educational program about the tribe, learned about how baskets and made through naturally dyed chunga palm fibers and heard the story of how tribal justice is delivered using interlocking foot boards, honey, and any insects that decide to make their way to the disgraced person via that sweet honey treat.

The Embera’ are also known for their use of kipara which decorates their bodies and unlike a permanent tattoo only lasts for several weeks. The color is derived from the Jangua fruit and the art of kipara has been shown to repel mosquitoes as well as other kinds of insects.

After the program we feasted on a lunch of taro, fresh-caught fish, and various fruits. It was delicious!

One of the things I enjoyed the most was a little girl who climbed down the steps of her home and hightailed it under the house in order to hide from her mother. She looked at me and put her finger to her lips to let me know in no uncertain terms that I was not to inform her mother as to her whereabouts as she scampered away!

After lunch we were entertained by the traditional dances of the Embera’ people and asked to participate after a demonstration. Let’s just say my partner was lucky that I only stepped on his barefoot toes once with my two left feet!

All too soon it was time to head back to “civilization” after shopping for traditional artwork made by the villagers. All in all a great and well orchestrated experience which was fun and educational too.

My new basket! Isn’t it amazing!

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.

The Town Of Oatlands In Central Tasmania

One of the most beautiful towns we accidentally discovered in Tasmania was the town of Oatlands. Sitting about 50 miles north of Hobart it is a spectacular place to stop and explore.

One of merits of his town is its vast collection of colonial sandstone buildings which number over one hundred fifty. Largely built by convict labor in the early 19th century; it was also considered a significant outpost during the Black War which was fought between the Indigenous First Nation People of the area and white settlers.

But if you have already heard of Oatlands it is probably due to Callington Mill, the only Lincolnshire style windmill in the whole of Australia. Built in 1837 this mill is a beaut and has been restored to its glory days.

Lake Dulverton, which borders Oatlands is well known for its many hiking paths which criss-cross in various directions. Fishing is another great pastime here and anglers can catch both rainbow and brown trout. The lake is also a bird watchers paradise where you can spot herons, ducks, and watch as black swans glide alongside the “cows” that inhabit the lake.

Oatlands also offers visitors a treasure trove of gardens and topiaries from one end of the town to the other. I was amazed at the different sizes and shapes of living sculptures that dotted the town.

While there we also visited the Oatlands District Historical Museum featuring local memorabilia from the town’s early history to the present. There is also a rather substantial bird egg collection housed within its walls and the docents are eager to share their vast knowledge of the area.

Finally, the Callington Mill Distillery offers an experience that few will forget. Producing both award winning gins and whiskeys; your senses will explode as you indulge in your first taste of Poltergeist Citrus known for its hints of candied fruit, orange, and key lime pie. Yummm. Better yet sit down and enjoy and lunch at their restaurant, The Cellar Door, which serves a variety of farm-to-table meats and produce. After lunch your next course of action is to order a flight of whiskey tastings followed by a self guided tour to learn more about what goes into making these bodacious spirits. Better yet, the facility also offers its own whiskey guides who help guests craft their own unique single malt whiskey complete with an original label.

Oatlands is the type of town that magically draws you in and keeps your enchanted. In short, it is one of the rare places that once you get there you don’t want to leave and its the kind of village where you suddenly find yourself searching for the nearest real estate office with sudden fantasies of finding a place of your own in this idyllic hideaway. Oatlands….is one of Tasmania’s gems… don’t miss it!

Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary

One of the most interesting places I have visited this year is the Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary located about 150 miles north of Reno but easily accessible from Cedarville, California. Part of Dark Sky International, an organization which advocates protecting the night skies from light pollution; it’s designation marks this part of Nevada as one of the darkest places in the USA and the world. This vast area is so remote that the night sky is not impacted by human produced light resulting in some of the clearest star gazing available in the world. In fact, the Milky Way is visible by just the naked eye and the planets are so bright that it feels as if you can reach up and touch them. The night sky vistas are so immense and the number of stars so numerous it will bring tears to the eyes of the most cantankerous of old men.

The nights we were camping there the sky was teaming with stars as the coyotes howled in delight. Shooting stars flew across the night sky by the dozens and the magnificent Man in the Moon brought himself so close that you could hear his whispers as he spoke from the heavens above. This was in January 2025 and it was cold during the night with temperatures below freezing resulting in fluctuations of over 40 degrees between night and day. Since temperatures can reach over 100 degrees in the summer to me the optimum time to visit this amazing place would probably be spring or fall.

One benefit of no light pollution in an area is that it allows nocturnal animal habitats to thrive. Here you might find badgers, kangaroo rats, bats, mountain lions and a rattlesnake or two. Because of the isolation of this area it is important to bring what you might need to survive an emergency. Also, it is important to keep in mind that there is snowfall in the winter time so it is imperative to have enough supplies on hand to keep you warm and fed for several days. Further, you cannot count on cell service in this remote area so be sure to let loved ones know where you will be.

There are several markets in Cedarville (including Page’s) and at Alturas where you can pick up groceries and supplies. I can also recommend without reservation several eateries and cute little stores in Cedarville including The Vault (great coffee and knickknacks) and the Country Hearth Restaurant which serves fresh baked goods as well as amazingly large portion breakfasts.

There are numerous campgrounds in the area managed by the BLM which can be contacted for further information at:

Bureau of Land Management
602 Cressler St.
Cedarville, CA 96104
530-279-6101

While Massacre Rim takes a bit of planning and time to visit, its breathtaking night skies are out of this world and definitely worth a trip. In fact, I was so impressed and awestruck by what I experienced that I am now planning on visiting as many Dark Sky Sanctuaries as I possibly can.

For more information on Dark Sky viewing visit: dark sky.org

Sierra Vista Open Space Preserve (Near San Jose)

About 15 minutes outside of San Jose California in the Eastern foothills of Santa Clara County; there is a nine mile hiking preserve that offers expansive views of the mountains, the South Bay and San Jose itself. With many different hikes and loops to choose from including a meadow hike that is perfect for young families as well as longer more challenging walks; it is hard to believe that the city is just below.

One of the more appreciated aspects of the preserve is the careful grooming of the trails as well as the thoughtfully placed bridges and benches just to rest and take in the views. Horses are also allowed on some of the trails however dogs and drones are not allowed due to habitat conditions.

While I was visiting in May the wildflowers were out in abundance brings swathes of colors to the hills.

The wildlife in the area although somewhat elusive includes hawks, badgers, gray fox and along with owls, kestrels, hummingbirds, bob cats and mountain lions. As always when hiking one should carry bear spray to ward off larger predators.

The preserve is open from 7 am until 8:30 pm but parking is somewhat limited so it is best to get there early because when the lot fills up you cannot hike. The only downside to this spectacular area is the lack of any sort of restroom facilities including porta-potties.

For more information visit: openspaceauthority.org. The site provides plenty of information about Sierra Vista along with several other Open Space hiking trails including their guided hike program, biking and horse trails.