This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.
In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.
Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.
Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.
There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.
Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.
I have to say that I have had some very good food in my travels. Most were fairly inexpensive food choices but a few came at quite a cost. I have found that I usually prefer the cheap eats except when it comes to anything YAK….YUCK!
The best meal that comes to mind was had in a small village in Thailand. We had been treking when I lost the lubricating fluid in my knees. Every step that I took ground bone on bone and it was excruciating. I walked one step at a time with tears rolling down my face. It got so bad that the guide, Boone, had his other guide take everyone else up ahead to the small village we would be staying in that night. Meanwhile, Boone, carried my pack and stayed with me as I hobbled along. Finally, when we arrived there was an amazing dinner awaiting. It was fresh vegetables and tofu. Yep, that is it. My best meal ever. I don’t know if it was because I was so relieved to get to the huts that I was intensely grateful for everything or if I was just starving but never had a plate looked so inviting.
While we were in Thailand this past April I visited another restaurant and also took a cooking class from them. The name of the place is the Blue Elephant and the restaurant is located in the former governors mansion. We had a multi-course dinner that was fit for kings. It consisted of Avocado Black Diamond Scallops, Red Curry, Tiger Prawns and Eggplant Salad and some other memorable taste marvels. And the decor was just beautiful.
The best Enchiladas I have ever eaten was in The Netherlands. The place was on the coast of the country in the town of Scheveningen. I have long ago forgotten the name of the place but I can still remember their cream cheese enchiladas like it was yesterday. It was a gastronomic highlight to my trip. However, today I was taken to a place that the people I am housesitting love and I can say without a doubt best Mexican food I have ever eaten. The roadside restaurant is called Tacos Vias and it’s on the road to Bernal. You choose whether you want blue (Azul) tacos or blanco (white) masa. The lady scoops a bit of dough, pats it into shape and then throws it on the grill. You then take the plate have them put the topping on. I had beans and cheese. Then added meat, potatoes, and carrots cooked in a sauce and then laid on a nice bit of mango and cucumber salsa. Here’s a look:
A big surprise to me in my food experiences was when I ate at the Pingvinen in Bergen, Norway. Reindeer stew with salted lamb, sausage and root veggies was a new taste that my palate was not sure about while their cured reindeer marinated in lingonberries and gin was a real treat. One thing I can say was that I believed the food that was served was traditional and could be found in the coldest and smallest of villages throughout the country.
Bergen had a surprising number of fantastic places to eat including Kogi which I can honestly say had the best Korean food I have ever eaten including what I ate in Korea. The bulgogi was stupendous as was the pa-jeon. The owner was extremely friendly and gave me the recipe for her secret sauce and the dishes I sampled were divine. There was also a Burmese restaurant that we stumbled upon called Mandalay Sushi and Burmese. (Pics- Brown Cheese Dessert, Cured Reindeer, Lapskaus Stew; along with Pajeon from Kogi in bottom left corner, the menu from Pingvinen.
Places I have eaten have given me inspiration for my own cooking but nothing as much as street food in various countries. I love the corn on the cob in 12 different flavors that you find in China. This man peddling his food in the water town of Zhouzhuang pulled the best sweet potato I have ever had off of his cart and handed it to me all hot and steamy. I also contributed to that pile of eggs sitting outside the two seater hole-in-the-wall that we ate at.
The best desserts I ever ate were in Prague and for the life of me I cannot tell you the name of of the place but it was in the historic downtown about two blocks from the Clocktower. Maybe if you are lucky you can read the napkin which I cannot. The last picture is the fabulous bread pudding served at St. Orres on the California coast up by Gualala. This Russian inspired restaurant is one of the most beautiful on the coast and the food is always great. Look at these delights and just drool.
Some of the drinks that stand out in mind include a particular blueberry cream smash found at the Bergens Tidende but for great drinks AND spectacular scenery I still believe that you can’t beat Nepenthe Restaurant off Highway One at Big Sir, California. Taking in the view with a lovely drink in your hand makes you believe that all is well with the world.
Oh and I guess this would not be complete with chocolate. Ethel M in Las Vegas is hands down my favorite chocolatier but a close second has got to Lakrids by Bulow Salty Caramel Chocolate Coated Licorice. I never particularly liked licorice until I tasted these dolls! Their Passion Fruit White Chocolate Coated Licorice is even better! (You can order Lakrids on Amazon!)
So there you have it. Some of my most memorable places I have eaten. I hope while I am here in Mexico to be able to add to this list. My plan is to take a cooking class while I am here in order to learn a bit more about what makes this country so spicy and delicioso.
One of the most beautiful towns we accidentally discovered in Tasmania was the town of Oatlands. Sitting about 50 miles north of Hobart it is a spectacular place to stop and explore.
One of merits of his town is its vast collection of colonial sandstone buildings which number over one hundred fifty. Largely built by convict labor in the early 19th century; it was also considered a significant outpost during the Black War which was fought between the Indigenous First Nation People of the area and white settlers.
But if you have already heard of Oatlands it is probably due to Callington Mill, the only Lincolnshire style windmill in the whole of Australia. Built in 1837 this mill is a beaut and has been restored to its glory days.
Lake Dulverton, which borders Oatlands is well known for its many hiking paths which criss-cross in various directions. Fishing is another great pastime here and anglers can catch both rainbow and brown trout. The lake is also a bird watchers paradise where you can spot herons, ducks, and watch as black swans glide alongside the “cows” that inhabit the lake.
Oatlands also offers visitors a treasure trove of gardens and topiaries from one end of the town to the other. I was amazed at the different sizes and shapes of living sculptures that dotted the town.
While there we also visited the Oatlands District Historical Museum featuring local memorabilia from the town’s early history to the present. There is also a rather substantial bird egg collection housed within its walls and the docents are eager to share their vast knowledge of the area.
Finally, the Callington Mill Distillery offers an experience that few will forget. Producing both award winning gins and whiskeys; your senses will explode as you indulge in your first taste of Poltergeist Citrus known for its hints of candied fruit, orange, and key lime pie. Yummm. Better yet sit down and enjoy and lunch at their restaurant, The Cellar Door, which serves a variety of farm-to-table meats and produce. After lunch your next course of action is to order a flight of whiskey tastings followed by a self guided tour to learn more about what goes into making these bodacious spirits. Better yet, the facility also offers its own whiskey guides who help guests craft their own unique single malt whiskey complete with an original label.
Oatlands is the type of town that magically draws you in and keeps your enchanted. In short, it is one of the rare places that once you get there you don’t want to leave and its the kind of village where you suddenly find yourself searching for the nearest real estate office with sudden fantasies of finding a place of your own in this idyllic hideaway. Oatlands….is one of Tasmania’s gems… don’t miss it!
Sometimes you just have to do a travel piece in pictures because as it is often said, “A picture is worth a thousand words.” Here’s looking at you South Haven!
Yes, it can get a bit crowded in the summer. And yes, parking can be an issue too but one of my favorite touristy towns along Lake Michigan is South Haven. Why? It has a town center that has so much charm and personality it bursts at the seams. A sandy beach with an ice cream parlor, a walkable jetty, and green parks lining the water. Interesting mom and pop shops with flower boxes and statues that beg you to explore the area. Neighborhoods with adorable old houses that the residents take pride in. A free kids water park. Rides on the Friends Good Will, a top sail merchant ship early 18th century reproduction which plies the waters of South Haven during the summer. Cafe Julia a much beloved eatery with fresh baked goods. And, of course, the infamous red lighthouse.
How did I end up in Terrace, British Columbia, Canada you may be wondering? Well, I fell in love with a man dedicated to fly fishing and as a result I found a new love myself. Fly fishing in Canada is world-class and everyone comes to tell fish stories and show off their latest prize catch and then (hopefully) return it to the wild. Steelheads are the prize and they can reach gargantuan proportions .
Here is a picture of me in my waders.
We spent time fishing the Skeena River which just happens to be the second longest river complex in British Columbia. The Kitimat and the Kalam are also winding and spectacular. Here the scenery is breathtaking and wildlife abundant; while waterfalls fall over the mountains and you can count as many as you can when in the Fjords of Norway. Old growth forests dominate and birds of prey can be seen often and during all times of the day. Moose quietly run amuck and bear are thick as thieves. One day we were out collecting mushrooms and hiking up a high trail when a very loud cat growl warned as we were trespassing and we clambered down the mountain quickly. Be sure to bring bear spray when out on the trails.
We pretty much based ourselves out of Terrace which is a lovely town with a few great restaurants. Blue Fin Sushi Bar quickly became a favorite and Thornhill Pub serves up some mighty tasty beer on tap. Of coarse, Tim Horton’s coffee is amazing but so are many of the local shops. And Canadian Tire proved to be good hosts for getting water and campers often use their dump station.
Located adjacent to the George Little Park is the Skeena Valley Farmers Market where the freshest produce can be had for very reasonable prices. A big bonus is that variety of local mushrooms are endless. From Lobster to King Oysters if you are a fungi fan you can’t find a better place to find your favorites and cook them down for dinner. The market is open on Saturdays.
If you don’t want to spend your last time a fun and free thing to do is walk the city and view all the murals and artwork that can be found around downtown. This was one of my favorite pieces but with so many artistic achievements it is hard to pick a favorite. There is also the Terrace Art Gallery nearby which features local artists and is definitely worth a stop.
If you are a hiker meander up to Terrace Wolf Pack where you can view six metal life-sized wolves in natural poses. The trailhead begins at the end of Johnstone Street.
Another free experience is go mushroom hunting. Now the ones I am about to show you are mostly poisonous so DON’T EAT THEM but the sheer variety that are out there in the woods and meadows make fungi frolicking a fantastic way to spend some time.
I wish I could tell you some great fish stories myself but alas I cannot for the entire three weeks I was visiting it poured. The rivers were chocolate and often too high to fish but still we tried. But I had a great time visiting museums, hiking and learning about this beautiful wooded paradise.
One day I hope to make my way back to these parts as being on the river so much limited the amount of looking around I could do. But if you want some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, this is one of the places that I would highly recommend. Just know the weather at times can be “iffy” and bring a good book but wherever you go in the area incredible vistas will constantly slap you in the face and you will often consider pulling up stakes just to spend your remaining life in this natural wonderland.
About 20 miles from Luang Prabang is one of the areas most beautiful treasures, Kuang Si Waterfalls. The water slips from high in the jungle tumbling over sculpted white limestone creating sets of turquoise pools which meander further down the mountain to a small village called Ban Tad. We arrived early in the morning in April and already it was starting to scorch. Sounds of birds filled the air while even the sun bears in the rescue park had trouble leaving their hammocks.
Walking small paths we rounded corners which captured our imaginations as the scenery began to spill out in front of us.
Until at last…the first of the pools magically appeared. And YES…it is that amazing color!
One of the great things about this waterfall is that you can actually swim in some of the pools. So swim we did. The bottom is a little slippery and small fish nibble at your toes but on a sizzling hot day it is a small price to pay for the privilege of floating in the cool, clear, soft water.
Climbing the trail you will see giant stands of bamboo, including my favorite…the yellow variety.
After a 15 minute walk you will arrive at the crest of the waterfall. It’s a bridal veil that falls vertically almost 200 feet and it is truly an enchanting view.
Along the way you will be rewarded with many different types of flora and fauna…this is the jungle after all!
From the crest you can head up the mountain to THE VIEW which is a tree house restaurant and the start of the zip line which propels you down through the jungle at lightening speeds. While most of the walk consists of climbing up sets of steel staircases, BEWARE, it is a hike for the semi-fit, which basically leads straight up to the top of mountain. But once there, you will be rewarded with spectacular views and the sounds of water spilling over the cliffs.
There are path and waterways up here to explore too. You can even take a short boat ride to the “start” of the falls.
One the way down we stopped at a little cafe which had the best tempura and beer where the butterflies decided to belly up to the bar.
Kuang Si Waterfalls is a great place to spend a day especially during the heat of the summer. Open from 8 am until 5 pm daily, there is a small admittance fee of 20,000 kip to visit the park which amounts to a little over $1 USD. This place can fill up with bus loads of tourists. My suggestion…rent a car…get there early and when the crowds start to arrive…drive off and explore the countryside. It’s money well spent and it will give you a sense of adventure that you will otherwise miss.
Arriving in Vietnam was an interesting experience. Unlike most countries it was an easy entry process. Effortless, really.That was a welcome surprise in a land seeped in tradition.
As we drove to our hotel it was eerie to see the War Museum and all the weaponry from the Vietnam War lining the streets acting as museums to those who drove out our young men. Driving past empty barracks that United States soldiers lived in was likewise very strange. My kids, of course, don’t remember the war, but I do. It was a really big thing when I was growing up and every night I watched the news on t.v. to see how many soldiers had been killed that day. My mother woke me up to watch the news when our Prisoners of War returned home from the Vietnam and I saw many of the protests when I was growing up. I grew up with Vietnam in my conscious memory…in fact, my brother-in-law was a soldier here when he was 18-22. The war changed him and his experiences in Vietnam made it difficult for him when he returned home. I always wondered who he might have been had he not gone.
About a 15 minute ride from Danang is the town of Hoi An. On the way to this ancient city we saw women working in the rice paddies with water buffalo also standing in the fields. I will tell you that working in the paddies has got to be some of the hardest work anyone can do anywhere! I am fortunate that I do not have to labor in the hot fields while standing in water and mud all day long.
Hoi An is a town built around centuries old canals. It is a beautiful ancient place with various periods/types of architecture from French Colonial buildings to Chinese shops and the famous Japanese covered bridge (Chua Cau) with its pagoda guarding the walkway. While its now a tourist stop the town and its people are still definitely wrapped in a soft silk-like tradition, plenty of old time charm, lots to see and do.
When we were Hoi An, the New Year Celebrations were just around the corner and as a result the entire town smelled of a mix of pungent incenses that were sometimes so thick that it threatened to choke you. In preparation for the holidays locals were paddling their boats down the river and opening brightly colored paper lanterns and placing them on the water. The brilliant yellows, reds, blues and greens of the lanterns floating along as we strolled made the river look as if it was a moving body of vibrant flowers.
We also saw boys out in the park playing soccer and elderly ladies carrying baskets laden with fruit for sale…the things these women must have seen and endured during the war and after the fall of the country!
For lunch we had a drink made from grapefruit, passion fruit, and mint. It was a lovely sweet and tart explosion in my mouth that I craved for the rest of the trip. I even had a salad made of banana blossoms which tasted somewhat sweet with a slight citrus flavor. Those noodle looking things in the picture…banana blossoms.
The people from Hoi An among the kindest I have ever met. Everyone asked us how we are and where we were from. The serenity of this place is intoxicating. The people are quiet and gentle…we could learn some important things from them.
As for me, I felt like I saw some of what my BIL must have seen and I feel a sense of awe and a sense of sadness too. It is hard to explain how this trip to Vietnam effected me but it was unlike anything I have felt before. I come away from this place feeling like I know my BIL better since taking this trip than I did when he was alive. And this is a blessing and a sense of closure descends over me like the clouds rolling through the rice paddies and finally my brain quiets after years of wonder.
Oh, and if you decide to travel to Vietnam yourself I can hook you up with an incredible tour guide. Just leave me a message and I will contact you with the information you will need.
I love street food. Just smelling it, looking at it and tasting it makes me giddy with anticipation and pleasure. I just know my taste buds are going to rejoice and do the “happy dance” as these flavors hit my tongue. From the hot red bean cakes found in Seoul to the jack fruit I tasted in Chiang Mai; there is something exciting about supporting vendors who have found their niche in the world of food.
One of the best places I have ever found for street food is in Beijing. Rows and rows of vendors some selling directly from their carts along with the lucky few who have a few tables for their best customers; this is a place where just about any food can be found. This is a place where food is plentiful and cheap…very cheap. If you are on a budget, street food should be your culinary horn of plenty.
But any words I could possibly say about this experience would be bland, like food without spice, wine or salt. So instead I leave you with these pictures of Beijing street food so you can “taste” them yourself.
The most flavorful dates I have ever eaten
Corn anyway you like it
And they say the Iowa State Fair has everything on a stick…I beg to differ!
One of the loveliest places I have been is actor/activist Robert Redford’s Sundance. Redford bought the place and has since turned it into a premier resort which doesn’t have a resort feeling at all. The only word I can use to describe it is…serene.
The last time we were there we took in lunch at the Foundry Grill. It is a place that is designed to look like a high-end rustic cabin complete with chinking. The atmosphere is slick but elegant and the menu was superb.
We then took the Scenic Lift to the top of Ray’s Summit where we spent several hours hiking through this pristine mountain trail. The vistas are incredible and the fresh air refreshes as you hike through the pines. Mountain biking,fly fishing, skiing, zip lining and spa services are also available. But what I really loved was the Art Studio where I watched the in-residence glass blowers. To be able to take that original blob and bend and shape it into something spectacular just amazes me. Guests can also take workshops in painting, pottery and making jewelry.
While I have never stayed in the rooms or cabins that are available for rent; it is my understanding that they are immaculate and decorated in a style to fit this mountain resort. Be forewarned they are pricey.
Everything about Sundance is what you would expect of something Robert Redford would develop from beautiful architecture, to babbling brooks and impressive artwork. And every time I come back I am amazed at the changes. The first time I visited was around 1980 when it was just a fairly quiet patch of beautiful ground. Now it is a destination that seeks to preserve the quiet essence of this beautiful area with a dignity not often found in a place that is rated one of the top resorts in the USA.
The Sonora Celtic Festival is undoubtedly one of the biggest Celtic festivals in the nation and with thirty years experience of throwing a HUGE shindig these people know how to put on a show.
This years bands were once again totally amazing. With Celtica, Wicked Tinkers, Tempest and Golden Bough fronting the stage you couldn’t help but rock and reel. Of course there are many amazing pipe bands who drone you out including the Stag and Thistle Pipe Band out of Fresno, California.
One of the largest living history villages celebrating over 2000 years of Celtic history is set up for the weekend. Here you will find dedicated folk cooking, eating, dressing, and celebrating as they did so long ago. Jousting by the Imperial Knights and The Highland Throwers also give you a thrilling taste of the sport back in the day. And whatever you do stay out of the way of the armored fighters or you might just feel the slick metallic edge of the sword against your neck.
While there you must stop into the clan booths and find out about “your people” and the history of the clans in Scotland. There are also over 100 Celtic craftsmen, artisans and vendors displaying their wares.
And of course there is the food. Roasted turkey legs, meat pies and haggis are a few of the family favorites which we eat while watching the Irish step and Scottish highland dancers. But the best offering bar none is the whiskies and ales. You must do a taste test to discover your favorite belly warming drink.
The Sonora Celtic Festival is held every March in Sonora, California. To learn more visit:
You Should Be A Traveling Fool2.com 