Here in this part of Mexico the “Maria Doll” or Mexican Rag Doll can easily be found. Sporting colorful dresses and ribbons braided into the doll’s hair, these festive moppets have a rich history that runs throughout the central region of the country. Dating back to the Colonial period in Mexico’s history; Marias were handmade by the Otomi and Mazahua communities which are located in and around Guanajuato, Michoacan and Queretaro . The modern dolls of today were soon crafted to celebrate the women street vendors who sold their wares back in the 1970’s.
Each doll is handmade and in the past clothing used by members of the household was stitched together to create each unique doll. With their winsome smiles the Marias were also thought to protect children from evil spirits.
Today Maria’s are big business and indigenous women in traditional dress can often be found in heavily touristed areas selling their dolls. And I can attest to the fact that nothing brings a smile to face of a vendor quicker then when she sells one of her dolls to a child who holds her Maria close and walks off with a big smile gracing her own face.
And look what I found in downtown Queretaro. Is this too cute or what?
I have to say that I have had some very good food in my travels. Most were fairly inexpensive food choices but a few came at quite a cost. I have found that I usually prefer the cheap eats except when it comes to anything YAK….YUCK!
The best meal that comes to mind was had in a small village in Thailand. We had been treking when I lost the lubricating fluid in my knees. Every step that I took ground bone on bone and it was excruciating. I walked one step at a time with tears rolling down my face. It got so bad that the guide, Boone, had his other guide take everyone else up ahead to the small village we would be staying in that night. Meanwhile, Boone, carried my pack and stayed with me as I hobbled along. Finally, when we arrived there was an amazing dinner awaiting. It was fresh vegetables and tofu. Yep, that is it. My best meal ever. I don’t know if it was because I was so relieved to get to the huts that I was intensely grateful for everything or if I was just starving but never had a plate looked so inviting.
While we were in Thailand this past April I visited another restaurant and also took a cooking class from them. The name of the place is the Blue Elephant and the restaurant is located in the former governors mansion. We had a multi-course dinner that was fit for kings. It consisted of Avocado Black Diamond Scallops, Red Curry, Tiger Prawns and Eggplant Salad and some other memorable taste marvels. And the decor was just beautiful.
The best Enchiladas I have ever eaten was in The Netherlands. The place was on the coast of the country in the town of Scheveningen. I have long ago forgotten the name of the place but I can still remember their cream cheese enchiladas like it was yesterday. It was a gastronomic highlight to my trip. However, today I was taken to a place that the people I am housesitting love and I can say without a doubt best Mexican food I have ever eaten. The roadside restaurant is called Tacos Vias and it’s on the road to Bernal. You choose whether you want blue (Azul) tacos or blanco (white) masa. The lady scoops a bit of dough, pats it into shape and then throws it on the grill. You then take the plate have them put the topping on. I had beans and cheese. Then added meat, potatoes, and carrots cooked in a sauce and then laid on a nice bit of mango and cucumber salsa. Here’s a look:
A big surprise to me in my food experiences was when I ate at the Pingvinen in Bergen, Norway. Reindeer stew with salted lamb, sausage and root veggies was a new taste that my palate was not sure about while their cured reindeer marinated in lingonberries and gin was a real treat. One thing I can say was that I believed the food that was served was traditional and could be found in the coldest and smallest of villages throughout the country.
Bergen had a surprising number of fantastic places to eat including Kogi which I can honestly say had the best Korean food I have ever eaten including what I ate in Korea. The bulgogi was stupendous as was the pa-jeon. The owner was extremely friendly and gave me the recipe for her secret sauce and the dishes I sampled were divine. There was also a Burmese restaurant that we stumbled upon called Mandalay Sushi and Burmese. (Pics- Brown Cheese Dessert, Cured Reindeer, Lapskaus Stew; along with Pajeon from Kogi in bottom left corner, the menu from Pingvinen.
Places I have eaten have given me inspiration for my own cooking but nothing as much as street food in various countries. I love the corn on the cob in 12 different flavors that you find in China. This man peddling his food in the water town of Zhouzhuang pulled the best sweet potato I have ever had off of his cart and handed it to me all hot and steamy. I also contributed to that pile of eggs sitting outside the two seater hole-in-the-wall that we ate at.
The best desserts I ever ate were in Prague and for the life of me I cannot tell you the name of of the place but it was in the historic downtown about two blocks from the Clocktower. Maybe if you are lucky you can read the napkin which I cannot. The last picture is the fabulous bread pudding served at St. Orres on the California coast up by Gualala. This Russian inspired restaurant is one of the most beautiful on the coast and the food is always great. Look at these delights and just drool.
Some of the drinks that stand out in mind include a particular blueberry cream smash found at the Bergens Tidende but for great drinks AND spectacular scenery I still believe that you can’t beat Nepenthe Restaurant off Highway One at Big Sir, California. Taking in the view with a lovely drink in your hand makes you believe that all is well with the world.
Oh and I guess this would not be complete with chocolate. Ethel M in Las Vegas is hands down my favorite chocolatier but a close second has got to Lakrids by Bulow Salty Caramel Chocolate Coated Licorice. I never particularly liked licorice until I tasted these dolls! Their Passion Fruit White Chocolate Coated Licorice is even better! (You can order Lakrids on Amazon!)
So there you have it. Some of my most memorable places I have eaten. I hope while I am here in Mexico to be able to add to this list. My plan is to take a cooking class while I am here in order to learn a bit more about what makes this country so spicy and delicioso.
One of the most beautiful towns we accidentally discovered in Tasmania was the town of Oatlands. Sitting about 50 miles north of Hobart it is a spectacular place to stop and explore.
One of merits of his town is its vast collection of colonial sandstone buildings which number over one hundred fifty. Largely built by convict labor in the early 19th century; it was also considered a significant outpost during the Black War which was fought between the Indigenous First Nation People of the area and white settlers.
But if you have already heard of Oatlands it is probably due to Callington Mill, the only Lincolnshire style windmill in the whole of Australia. Built in 1837 this mill is a beaut and has been restored to its glory days.
Lake Dulverton, which borders Oatlands is well known for its many hiking paths which criss-cross in various directions. Fishing is another great pastime here and anglers can catch both rainbow and brown trout. The lake is also a bird watchers paradise where you can spot herons, ducks, and watch as black swans glide alongside the “cows” that inhabit the lake.
Oatlands also offers visitors a treasure trove of gardens and topiaries from one end of the town to the other. I was amazed at the different sizes and shapes of living sculptures that dotted the town.
While there we also visited the Oatlands District Historical Museum featuring local memorabilia from the town’s early history to the present. There is also a rather substantial bird egg collection housed within its walls and the docents are eager to share their vast knowledge of the area.
Finally, the Callington Mill Distillery offers an experience that few will forget. Producing both award winning gins and whiskeys; your senses will explode as you indulge in your first taste of Poltergeist Citrus known for its hints of candied fruit, orange, and key lime pie. Yummm. Better yet sit down and enjoy and lunch at their restaurant, The Cellar Door, which serves a variety of farm-to-table meats and produce. After lunch your next course of action is to order a flight of whiskey tastings followed by a self guided tour to learn more about what goes into making these bodacious spirits. Better yet, the facility also offers its own whiskey guides who help guests craft their own unique single malt whiskey complete with an original label.
Oatlands is the type of town that magically draws you in and keeps your enchanted. In short, it is one of the rare places that once you get there you don’t want to leave and its the kind of village where you suddenly find yourself searching for the nearest real estate office with sudden fantasies of finding a place of your own in this idyllic hideaway. Oatlands….is one of Tasmania’s gems… don’t miss it!
One of the best small museums I have ever visited is the Nisga’a in British Columbia. The architecture of the building which highlights the natural beauty of traditional tribal lands along with the highly curated and informative exhibits will surely take your breath away and give you a new sense of appreciation for traditional First Nation history and practices.
To get to the multiple galleries one enters through a replica of a longhouse. I suggest entering more than once to really get a feeling of what is being conveyed and to be able to experience the feast for your eyes that surrounds you.
The first gallery is known as the Transformation Gallery. Here you will find a huge collection of spirit masks (naxnok) and costumes that were used to the tell the stories of spirits and their role in society.
After exiting this colorful gallery you are directed to the Shaman’s Gallery (Halayt Gallery) which emphasizes the role of the Shaman in society and displays items used to call and direct the supernatural.
The Museum also contains several more galleries which discuss the history of the Nisga’a, the possessions of the people, laws and customs, as well as showcasing daily life of the tribe and individuals roles within it. Headdresses, bentwood boxes and rattles are just a few of the exquisite things that will be seen as you meander through. Be sure to take some time to explore as this is not an educational center to rush through.
One of the best things about this museum is the kindness of staff who will patiently answer or will find the answer to any question you might have. These are individuals who are immensely proud of their culture/heritage and want to be sure that everyone who leaves takes a bit of that appreciation with them.
Finally, be sure to check out the gift shop where local artists have their works on display and where you can also find further information about the indigenous people throughout the region.
There is a small entrance fee. Families pay $22, adults, $8 and children $5. The museum is open from Early May through the end of October on Wednesdays through Sundays from 10 am until 5 pm. It is located at: 810 Highway Drive, Lax̱g̱altsʼap, British Columbia, Canada. For further information call 1 (250) 633- 3050.
How did I end up in Terrace, British Columbia, Canada you may be wondering? Well, I fell in love with a man dedicated to fly fishing and as a result I found a new love myself. Fly fishing in Canada is world-class and everyone comes to tell fish stories and show off their latest prize catch and then (hopefully) return it to the wild. Steelheads are the prize and they can reach gargantuan proportions .
Here is a picture of me in my waders.
We spent time fishing the Skeena River which just happens to be the second longest river complex in British Columbia. The Kitimat and the Kalam are also winding and spectacular. Here the scenery is breathtaking and wildlife abundant; while waterfalls fall over the mountains and you can count as many as you can when in the Fjords of Norway. Old growth forests dominate and birds of prey can be seen often and during all times of the day. Moose quietly run amuck and bear are thick as thieves. One day we were out collecting mushrooms and hiking up a high trail when a very loud cat growl warned as we were trespassing and we clambered down the mountain quickly. Be sure to bring bear spray when out on the trails.
We pretty much based ourselves out of Terrace which is a lovely town with a few great restaurants. Blue Fin Sushi Bar quickly became a favorite and Thornhill Pub serves up some mighty tasty beer on tap. Of coarse, Tim Horton’s coffee is amazing but so are many of the local shops. And Canadian Tire proved to be good hosts for getting water and campers often use their dump station.
Located adjacent to the George Little Park is the Skeena Valley Farmers Market where the freshest produce can be had for very reasonable prices. A big bonus is that variety of local mushrooms are endless. From Lobster to King Oysters if you are a fungi fan you can’t find a better place to find your favorites and cook them down for dinner. The market is open on Saturdays.
If you don’t want to spend your last time a fun and free thing to do is walk the city and view all the murals and artwork that can be found around downtown. This was one of my favorite pieces but with so many artistic achievements it is hard to pick a favorite. There is also the Terrace Art Gallery nearby which features local artists and is definitely worth a stop.
If you are a hiker meander up to Terrace Wolf Pack where you can view six metal life-sized wolves in natural poses. The trailhead begins at the end of Johnstone Street.
Another free experience is go mushroom hunting. Now the ones I am about to show you are mostly poisonous so DON’T EAT THEM but the sheer variety that are out there in the woods and meadows make fungi frolicking a fantastic way to spend some time.
I wish I could tell you some great fish stories myself but alas I cannot for the entire three weeks I was visiting it poured. The rivers were chocolate and often too high to fish but still we tried. But I had a great time visiting museums, hiking and learning about this beautiful wooded paradise.
One day I hope to make my way back to these parts as being on the river so much limited the amount of looking around I could do. But if you want some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, this is one of the places that I would highly recommend. Just know the weather at times can be “iffy” and bring a good book but wherever you go in the area incredible vistas will constantly slap you in the face and you will often consider pulling up stakes just to spend your remaining life in this natural wonderland.
Sitting almost directly across the pier from the Sydney Opera House in the Museum of Contemporary Art or MCA. Filled with diverse art treasures from Australia including paintings, pottery, indigenous pieces and a whole trove of other displays; you won’t be disappointed spending a couple hours of your day here.
This picture doesn’t do this indigenous necklace justice. Missing from it is the immense length of the piece as well as the different depths that the beading creates when viewing it.
From small displays to pictures that fill entire walls your imagination will certainly be stirred while viewing alll the different genres of art that MCA holds in its collection
MAC has a range of artwork from provocative to “Heck, I could have made that myself” works I found myself contemplating the question “What is art?” This is something my friend Leah and I have discussed many times. She is of the belief that art is art and you can’t put any parameters on it. I, on the other hand, believe that if I could have created it, well then, it certainly can’t be considered art by any stretch of the imagination.
MCA is open 10am-5 pm daily except Tuesdays when the museum is closed. Open all holidays except Christmas on December 25. There is a cafe for casual dining and its a nice place to relax a bit after all the walking.
Adults $20
Concession $16
Free for MCA Members, under 18s and Australian students.
Museum of Contemporary Art Australia Tallawoladah, Gadigal Country 140 George Street The Rocks Sydney NSW 2000
About 20 miles from Luang Prabang is one of the areas most beautiful treasures, Kuang Si Waterfalls. The water slips from high in the jungle tumbling over sculpted white limestone creating sets of turquoise pools which meander further down the mountain to a small village called Ban Tad. We arrived early in the morning in April and already it was starting to scorch. Sounds of birds filled the air while even the sun bears in the rescue park had trouble leaving their hammocks.
Walking small paths we rounded corners which captured our imaginations as the scenery began to spill out in front of us.
Until at last…the first of the pools magically appeared. And YES…it is that amazing color!
One of the great things about this waterfall is that you can actually swim in some of the pools. So swim we did. The bottom is a little slippery and small fish nibble at your toes but on a sizzling hot day it is a small price to pay for the privilege of floating in the cool, clear, soft water.
Climbing the trail you will see giant stands of bamboo, including my favorite…the yellow variety.
After a 15 minute walk you will arrive at the crest of the waterfall. It’s a bridal veil that falls vertically almost 200 feet and it is truly an enchanting view.
Along the way you will be rewarded with many different types of flora and fauna…this is the jungle after all!
From the crest you can head up the mountain to THE VIEW which is a tree house restaurant and the start of the zip line which propels you down through the jungle at lightening speeds. While most of the walk consists of climbing up sets of steel staircases, BEWARE, it is a hike for the semi-fit, which basically leads straight up to the top of mountain. But once there, you will be rewarded with spectacular views and the sounds of water spilling over the cliffs.
There are path and waterways up here to explore too. You can even take a short boat ride to the “start” of the falls.
One the way down we stopped at a little cafe which had the best tempura and beer where the butterflies decided to belly up to the bar.
Kuang Si Waterfalls is a great place to spend a day especially during the heat of the summer. Open from 8 am until 5 pm daily, there is a small admittance fee of 20,000 kip to visit the park which amounts to a little over $1 USD. This place can fill up with bus loads of tourists. My suggestion…rent a car…get there early and when the crowds start to arrive…drive off and explore the countryside. It’s money well spent and it will give you a sense of adventure that you will otherwise miss.
Last month I had the privilege of meeting Meta the Elephant. She lives at the Elephant Peace Project in Chiang Rai, Thailand along with two other elephants. This organization is run by DADA who is an indigenous Karen tribal member and who advocates for the humane treatment and care of elephants as traditionally practiced by her ancestors. DADA has lived with elephants all her life as have numerous generations of her family. Living with elephants is a tradition and way of life of the Karen.
The elephants are allowed to roam untethered throughout the property and they do not engage in work or hard labor for a living. They are lovingly cared for, bathed, and fed throughout the day. The amount of food that they eat per day is massive and they are destructive as they go about gathering their own food. As a result their diets have to be supplemented with food that is bought by the organization.
The feel of the trunk of an elephant as she removed food from my hand is nothing like anything I have ever felt before. The trunk is a powerful life force onto itself and the work that it can do by gripping and pulling is amazing. I was in complete awe. But perhaps the most surprising thing to me about the elephant was their skin. It felt leathery and rough from all the mud that they threw on themselves until we bathed them. Then, with all the dirt and mud removed, their skin felt as smooth as a newborn baby’s butt! Oh, and did you know, that elephant’s store water at the top of their trunk basically between their eyes!
Elephants are intelligent creatures and their command of the language used by the Mahout is astounding. Here are just a few of the words that an elephant knows as sounded out in English:
Word Meaning
How Stop
Pei Pei Come with me
Bun Bun Eat
Buuuun Drink
Chol Sigh Go to the left
Chol Qwa Go to the right
Chol Toy Backup
Hwe Hwe Walk Forward
Lupe Stand Up
We had a great day hiking with the elephants, being educated about them and feeding them different foods throughout the day. We urge you to support the Elephant Peace Project to help feed these gentle giant eating machines. Contributions can be made via the Elephant Peace Project website. Here is the link:
Serenity is elusive. We search for it but often come up empty-handed. Some climb mountains. Some listen to the birds. And some search the word over never understanding that they hold it in the palm of their own hand. BUT…let’s face it there are some places that just make it easier to feel that overall peace that we are so desperately looking for. One of those places where it is within reach is Hae Dong Yong Gung Temple in Busan which is also known as the Dragon Temple. After traveling with three children overseas for a week… peace… was what I was seeking.
This temple first came into existence in the mid 1300’s. You can read a little about it. It was destroyed during the Japanese occupation but was rebuilt in 1970. Yes, fairly new but still spectacular.
Our trip started when we took the #9 bus from the subway station. We were dropped off about a 10 minute walk from the temple. This Hae Dong Yong Gong is known as the Zodiac temple and upon entering you see huge marble carvings of each of the astrological signs behind which stands a huge pagoda.
Then comes the interesting trek down smoldering granite stairs where you pass several buddhas. The belief of those who trek here is that “at least one of your wishes will be answered here through your heartfelt prayers.”
We crossed over the bridge where the sea rode waves to just below the cliff. It was amazing. But frankly I don’t have time to write anymore as I head to Mokpo tomorrow. So instead I will leave you with pictures.
Arriving in Vietnam was an interesting experience. Unlike most countries it was an easy entry process. Effortless, really.That was a welcome surprise in a land seeped in tradition.
As we drove to our hotel it was eerie to see the War Museum and all the weaponry from the Vietnam War lining the streets acting as museums to those who drove out our young men. Driving past empty barracks that United States soldiers lived in was likewise very strange. My kids, of course, don’t remember the war, but I do. It was a really big thing when I was growing up and every night I watched the news on t.v. to see how many soldiers had been killed that day. My mother woke me up to watch the news when our Prisoners of War returned home from the Vietnam and I saw many of the protests when I was growing up. I grew up with Vietnam in my conscious memory…in fact, my brother-in-law was a soldier here when he was 18-22. The war changed him and his experiences in Vietnam made it difficult for him when he returned home. I always wondered who he might have been had he not gone.
About a 15 minute ride from Danang is the town of Hoi An. On the way to this ancient city we saw women working in the rice paddies with water buffalo also standing in the fields. I will tell you that working in the paddies has got to be some of the hardest work anyone can do anywhere! I am fortunate that I do not have to labor in the hot fields while standing in water and mud all day long.
Hoi An is a town built around centuries old canals. It is a beautiful ancient place with various periods/types of architecture from French Colonial buildings to Chinese shops and the famous Japanese covered bridge (Chua Cau) with its pagoda guarding the walkway. While its now a tourist stop the town and its people are still definitely wrapped in a soft silk-like tradition, plenty of old time charm, lots to see and do.
When we were Hoi An, the New Year Celebrations were just around the corner and as a result the entire town smelled of a mix of pungent incenses that were sometimes so thick that it threatened to choke you. In preparation for the holidays locals were paddling their boats down the river and opening brightly colored paper lanterns and placing them on the water. The brilliant yellows, reds, blues and greens of the lanterns floating along as we strolled made the river look as if it was a moving body of vibrant flowers.
We also saw boys out in the park playing soccer and elderly ladies carrying baskets laden with fruit for sale…the things these women must have seen and endured during the war and after the fall of the country!
For lunch we had a drink made from grapefruit, passion fruit, and mint. It was a lovely sweet and tart explosion in my mouth that I craved for the rest of the trip. I even had a salad made of banana blossoms which tasted somewhat sweet with a slight citrus flavor. Those noodle looking things in the picture…banana blossoms.
The people from Hoi An among the kindest I have ever met. Everyone asked us how we are and where we were from. The serenity of this place is intoxicating. The people are quiet and gentle…we could learn some important things from them.
As for me, I felt like I saw some of what my BIL must have seen and I feel a sense of awe and a sense of sadness too. It is hard to explain how this trip to Vietnam effected me but it was unlike anything I have felt before. I come away from this place feeling like I know my BIL better since taking this trip than I did when he was alive. And this is a blessing and a sense of closure descends over me like the clouds rolling through the rice paddies and finally my brain quiets after years of wonder.
Oh, and if you decide to travel to Vietnam yourself I can hook you up with an incredible tour guide. Just leave me a message and I will contact you with the information you will need.
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