Mexico City has some of the best collection of museums in the world and the Museo de Arte Moderno certainly didn’t dissappoint. It was established in 1964 designed by architests Vazquez, Alcerreca and Salcido. With a focus on Mexican art ,permanent exhibition artists include Kahlo, Jair, Montenegro, Rivera, Loza; just to name a few and features works from 1930 until the present day. With basically four wings and an incredibly beautiful outdoor sculpture garden you will want to give yourself plenty of time to experience the flow between outdoor and in that the building encourages.
The day we got there they were installing a new sculpture and it was amazing to watch the process
As you enter the Museum you are met with gathering areas on both the first and second floors. They are beautifully designed and meant to allow to to view glimpses of all areas of the interior and grounds.
Here are a few of the more famous paintings on display and/or some of my favorites.
Olga CostaDiego Rivera, Alfredo Zalce Frida KahleRoberto MontenegroFermin Revueltas
The gardens and sulptures just can’t be missed and there is a small outdoor cafe at which you can sip your coffee and view the magnificence all around you.
Just a few more pics but I guarantee you that there is so much more to see. As a person who has never been much impressed with “modern art” I can say that I have changed my perception of the genre. It has elements that I can readily identify with as a woman born in the 1960’s and allows for a glance at past history that will hopefully influence the future.
Open Tuesday-Sunday from 10a.-6pm. The cost about 70 pecos with no fees for the disabled and young children. Afterwards, walk throughout the large city park to which many of the museums are connected.
Casco Viejo (or Old Town) is an amazingly beautiful part of Panama City. French and Spanish Colonial architecture combine to create a section of the city that is living its best life. Once known as Panama Viejo, the waterside port was established in 1519 but was destroyed in 1671 by the pirate Henry Morgan. Today is area is being revitalized and features old churches, great restaurants, and small shops. Best of all the ocean water belts cool breezes which flow like a gentle mists throughout the ancient streets. Frankly, the town reminds me a little of New Orleans with a lot more punch.
One of the things I loved about Old Town was the alleyways with hats, or flags, or copies of ancient embroidery hanging from upper window to upper window on both sides of the street. This part of Panama City always has something to be enchanted by and it makes your heart skip a beat when you turn a corner and find something unexpected and charming.
Since I am still having computer issues I am doing a computer dump of some of my pictures so you can get your own idea of the city. Enjoy!
Flags hanging cross the streetCatedral MetropolitanaCatedral MetropolitanaStreet of Native FlagsIndigenous Women Selling Their CraftsStreet of HatsOld Time Cigar Shop
Going to Nicaragua is a different experience. We had to leave the truck behind, pay exit fees at the Costa Rican border, walk a distance in the ” NO MAN’S LAND” which lies between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, pay $1 outside of the Nicaragua customs building, stand in line for about 20 minutes to get to see a customs official, pay another $13 (I think), have our luggage scanned and then exit the building walk about 300 meters to the Alamo Car Rental.
Driving is easy as they drive on the same side of the road as in the USA but what struck me first were two things: beautiful trees on both sides of the road created a beautiful green canopy as we drove. It was gorgeous and reminded me of the East Coast. The second thing that I found interesting is as we traveled down the main highway (NO POTHOLES!!! unlike Costa Rica) there were cows and horses tied up to the fences all a long the road. It was amazing.
It is only about a 45 minute drive from the border to San Juan Del Sur. It is an old beach town that is slowly getting discovered by tourists but retains its gritty but sweet character from years gone by. We were located at the bay but there are beautiful beaches all around the area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and what a gorgeous sunset it was. This is a real fishing town so watching the boats head out to sea and return with family waiting for them is a reminder of that “waiting history” that fishing hubs around the world have experienced for eons.
Night time is interesting here as there are beach volleyball games with families watching the kids do their thing. Horses meander along side the water and parrots squawk in the trees. The town basically rolls up the sidewalk at 8 pm as families walking hand-in-hand head back to home.
The next couple of days were a blur. We walked the town peeking in shops and enjoying the street markets. Grills were set up on the street where you could buy pollo and rice for about $2-3 bucks. I loved watching the women and men carrying their wares on their heads, the buzz of the street market, and the kindness of the people we talked to along the way. Everyone was friendly and put up with my attempts at speaking Spanish, often teaching me a word or two along the way.
We also visited the local park and church which is incredibly beautiful in its simplicity. In addition, you can’t help but view The Christ of the Mercy which is a colossal statue of Jesus Christ which rises to a height of 134m above sea level and can be seen throughout the town.
While here we took time to look at real estate that is for sale in the area. Take a look at this three-bedroom beauty which was selling for $459,000 with pristine teak woodwork and views that were amazing. One of my favorite was a small villa in a gated pool community which was selling for $140,000 with HOA’s of $400 per month
If you know me; you know I love a good mural. From the out-of-this world type of paintings to the murals that can bring tears to your eyes; San Juan del Sur has plenty of talented artists offering up their best.
I loved San Juan Del Sur and who knows I might end up there one day. But for now I leave you with the local high school band practicing on the Main Street of the town.
Last night we had a major thunderstorm, which was so cool, but also very loud, as the thunder echoes back-and-forth from one mountain to another. You can almost see the lightning roll back-and-forth between mountains and every once in a while, the house shakes down to its very bones as the thunder spanks the ground. We lost power and we lost water due to errant rock splicing through the plastic pipe. By eight this morning two men on motorcycles carrying new pipe, glue, and a shovel were standing alongside the road making the necessary repairs.
I start my walk around 6 am because the sun is usually shining brightly in the sky, and the temperature is increasing exponentially as each ray of sun peaks out from under the clouds. As I walk, I am greeted by children on motorcycles with their parents traveling to the school. I must say buenos dias 15 to 20 times a morning as everyone smiles and waves as I walk by. Yes, it’s official. I am a gringo, as explained to me by a friend but luckily a gringo that everyone wants to help improve her in Spanish, so everyone talks to me, and I fumble along, trying to make sense with a language that I’ve never spoken before. The people are gracious about my feeble attempts, but they appreciate that I try.
Below we will find pictures of my walk. I hope you get a sense of the beauty that I see every day. 
Before you set off on a trip, you tend to believe that your time away will be nothing but glorious. Today was not that day.
It started with my computer that decided it did not want to wake up when I did. As a matter of fact, it hasn’t woken up all day. This is obviously a very bad sign, especially when you are living in the middle of rural Costa Rica and there’s nowhere that can fix it . Therefore, I’m attempting to write this blog by speaking into a microphone. We shall see how it goes, but I would expect a lot of typos that I’m probably too lazy to fix.
After I discovered the bad news about my computer, I decided to take a walk. It was a lovely morning … cloudy with mist hanging over the mountains and not yet hot. I had one cup of coffee in and enough caffeine to probably get me to the next village when I heard this.:
After that excitement, I drove to Nicoya where I was delighted to find a new store with all sorts of gluten-free items. Of course, it was expensive but great to find as I started home. A huge thunderstorm arrived. The thunderstorms are very loud because they echo across the valley. It’s kind of cool and I like them. However, I lost my GPS and therefore my way home. I ended up only God knows where in the back country, even further back than I currently am, trying to find my way out. Eventually, I made it home, unlocked the gate in the pouring rain, looked up, to see what all the racket was. It was these beautiful parrots. Take a listen and a look: (For some reason you have to press the triangles even though there is no movie… then it shows up)
Parrots
All is well until right after I finish filming this when I slipped on a wet rock and landed on my shoulder, you know the one with the torn rotator cuff. At first, I thought I broke my wrist, but I didn’t. Thank goodness, but I did screw up the shoulder again. I’d like to say the video of the parrots was worth it… We shall see about that!
Today is the festival so I will be going to the school at 4 PM to help celebrate. I was invited and I think it has something to do with beans. It is also Costa Rica’s Independence Day so I guess I will find out how beans tie into that But I’m excited and honored that I was asked to come. I’ll let you know how it goes. 
Since everyday is a hot day in Costa Rica I don’t have much advice about keeping cool with no AC except walk early, shower often, and keep your cooking short and sweet so you don’t heat up the entire house. Sometimes standing out in the relief of the daily evening rainstorm is helpful too. (note that there’s no water in the swimming pool) Sometimes life is cruel that way!
So, did I tell you it is mucho caliente aqui? It is, and for that reason I have been walking early in the morning which led me directly to a wonderful day. As I was walking down the rough stone road I saw a young man on the porch of a very old home and he was giving a man a haircut. I assumed it was his grandfather and I yelled out “Buenos Dias!” Now, since I am probably the only white girl in a 20 mile radius I tend to draw attention to myself just by breathing. Shouting “Good Day” adds a whole new dimension so the hair cut immediately ceased. I tried in my very Malo Espanol to talk to them, when the young man with the scissors in his hands, after wincing at my pronunciation stated, “I speak English.” And that began our conversation which led to me hiring him to come over three times a week to just talk to me for an hour in order to try to improve my Spanish. I am paying him of course and he is as thrilled as I am. The people in this area are impoverished and money is hard to come by so this works well for both of us. As you can see there is not a lot around here….there are more hooves than feet.
Yesterday he arrived on his small motorbike and we talked for over an hour. He is a barber and also a chef. He showed me pictures of the food that he has created and I drooled. Everyone who knows me will tell you with a shake of their head and a little “tusk-tusk…the poor dear” look that I am a lousy cook. Therefore, I am working up the nerve to see if he would cook for me once a week so I actually eat some authentic and healthy food.
After my Spanish lesson with him; I went on my walk and yelled out again “Buenos Dias!!!!” to an older woman. Turns out she knows absolutely no English but we managed to communicate a bit until she grabbed me by the arms and led me to the next house where she went in and brought out a young woman named Allan who speaks some English. Long story short we are going into town for breakfast this weekend to celebrate Costa Rican Independence Day. I think it will be fun and I am excited. The people here are so nice and welcoming.
Today I finally decided to leave the house and make the 30 minute trip to go to Nicoya using the 6 speed stick shift which I have been avoiding. I actually had no choice….I have had a headache for five days, another medical issue and was almost out of food. The traffic in Nicoya is horrid as there is one two-lane road in town and they are doing road work on it making traffic come to a crawl all the way through town. I got lost going to the hospital and ended up in the back woods down by a school where all the kids were going home in their blue and white uniforms. They looked adorable. When I finally found the hospital I went inside only to find a waiting room with about 100 coughing/snuffling people in it. But it was after visiting to bathroom I made a decision: I was not meant to be seen by a doctor on this particular day and I left.
Hospital BathroomHospital Bathroom
I then proceeded to the store (which has some Wal-Mart Brands) and then drove home. I am amazed at the price of food and am surprised that people aren’t walking around skeletal-like. I mean seriously who can afford to eat? Not that the pictures that I put up are really food anyway but still…..
$3.27 USD Small BottleSmall Bag $2.59
I arrived home to my new pets…this kitchen spider and the HUGE red ants that share my house with me. There is no use in trying to kill them as they are just replaced by their pissed off buddies. So now I just try to live and let live while just trying to get along with everyone. With any luck I will do no harm and neither will they.
Meanwhile, my daughters are in Massachusetts visiting with cousins and having a great time. I was suppose to be there and then decided to be traveling instead. I am wondering if I made a slight miscalculation. Here is a Video by my daughter Kellis of their afternoon…..you will notice there is water in this pool.
If you have ever dreamed about getting away from in all…come to Costa Rica. Yes, there are resorts and San Jose, but if you really want to get lost, come to rural Guanacaste where the Brahma cows out number humans, the monkey are louder than them, and the nearest town is about twenty-five minutes away by car and 2 days if you are walking.
MooMy NeighborWhere My Neighbors Live
Yesterday, I went to the very small school down the road to see if anyone there could help me with my Spanish by talking to me a couple of hours a week and I would pay them. No one knows English, which while expected, was disappointing because even with my translator no one understood what I was really wanting. No one had to speak English just be willing to to talk to me in Spanish. If nothing else I proved to be a sizable distraction for the kids who thought my attempts at communicating in Spanish were hilarious!
It is very impoverished here but I am not sure that anyone in the valley is truly aware of it. Everyone waves and smiles, and during my walk today several people waved and answered me back after I yelled out “buenos tardes!” Tonight I plan to go down to the bingo hall and play a game or two as a benefit for a sick child in the village.
The Bingo HallA Curious NeighborMy Next Door Neighbor
The day before they left my hosts took me into Nicoya which is the nearest “big” town. It has A McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Sigh. There are three supermarkets and a lovely town plaza full of Iguanas of all colors. I love the orange ones. Food at the supermarkets is expensive and I don’t know how the locals afford to shop. For instance a small sized Wall-Mart shredded cheese is $4 here while at home about $2. I was shocked and my heart went out to all the less-fortunate folks for whom shopping must be a cruel joke.
The Plaza at NicoyaNicoyaAn Iguana at the Plaza
On Wednesday I took I & E to the airport in San Jose so they could go home to France to visit their first grand baby. I drove their truck…a six speed stick shirt. I was terrified. Why? Because no one seems to follow traffic laws, I had not driven a stick in 25 years, and I was driving in a big city.
Driving here is arduous. It is about a five-six hour trek from here one way to the airport. I don’t think it is because of the roads per se even though the first thirty minutes is spent dodging potholes the size of small continents along rutted dirt roads. No, I think it takes so long because the trucks NEVER pull over even though there are fifty cars behind them and they are going 30 mph. Add to that road work and tree trimming along the highway and the time it takes to get from here to there increases dramatically. But the scenery if truly spectacular and it was nice passing the ocean and stopping off at the butterfly farm. Unfortunately, the farm had experienced a major crisis two days before I came when birds got into the butterfly pen. Let’s just say I was told that there were numerous casualties inflicted by the invaders.
A Window Moth
All in all my stay thus far has been a 180 degree change from my time in Mexico. It is HOT here and so very HUMID. There is no air conditioner which means I am too hot to cook and as a result I have lost 5 pounds. I am also sleeping under mosquito netting thank goodness. Yet despite all of this I developed a massive headache (which I never usually have) and my stomach feels like I have been sailing. I am hoping that I am not coming down with anything and that the tick that bit me is not some disease carrying vampire. Yes, I know, I am sounding like a whiny American and as sick as I am feeling today (now Saturday) I have earned the title. But I know that soon I will be feeling better which will improve the attitude and the whining will cease.
So, I have been in Costa Rica for a little over 24 hours and I am experiencing a bit of culture shock. For me, the shock is not from living in a deeply rural part of the country near Nicoya but from the heat/humidity found here. I am just not used to it and it feels weird that my body constantly feels like it has been rolled in a vat of ice cream and then laid out to dry….only you never do… which means that boob rash will definitely be making an appearance soon. I feel sticky and wet and for a girl who has really never sweated in her life I have to wonder if there is such a thing as a deodorant that truly works!
The people whose home I am sitting are marvelous. They are French and moved here two years ago. They are kind and generous, make a mean rum drink, and are giving me advice about everything under the sun such as which fruits I can eat off the trees and which snakes could possibly kill me (luckily there are not THAT many) They are doing everything in their power to make me feel comfortable and for me to enjoy my experience here.
I can eat these!!! They are yummy!
The wildlife is amazing on this land. There are iguana’s of every color and size. They are quite loud when they fall out of the trees and land on the ground with a huge thud. One is also the pet who comes and begs for food. Macaws fly through the trees as do yellow-headed green parrots. Butterflies of all types float through the clouds and land on the banana trees. There are peccaries roaming the property, armadillos, and I can hear the howler monkeys on the mountain behind the house.
While there are few people there are plenty of trees. The property has Guanacastes, Bayan type trees, mangos. papaya, and a sweet lemon. Pineapple are just starting to reach their second year of growth. My hosts have really worked hard on their property and it shows.
I’ll leave you with the spectacular views that can be seen within the 14,000 hectares that I will be living amongst for the next six weeks. I hope you are as awed by them as I am.
As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.
COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.
QueretaroQueretaroEl Pueblito
THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.
QueretaroSan MiguelJuriquilla
THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.
Amealco
THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.
JuriquillaJuriquillaQueretaro-Plaza de ArmusBernalQueretaroOn My Street
THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.
THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.
San MiguelTown of El PueblitoTown Of El PueblitoTown of El Pueblito
THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.
THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.
QueretaroQueretaro
THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.
RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.
PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.
QueretaroSan MiguelQueretaro
DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.
THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.
Templo de Santo Domingo- 1697 Templo de Santo Domingo Santa Iglesia CathedralVILLAS DEL MESON
THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.
Roasted Corn SoupVarious Breakfast BreadsFried Bananas With Passion Fruit Ice CreamCorn dripping in lime, slathered in mayo and rolled in cheeseChili NagoyaHuitlacocheArroz Con LecheShrimp, Mango, Avocado, Coconut FusionTraditional Food
TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,
HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.
Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.
One of the things that surprised me when I moved here was the very modern architecture where I am living and the high standard of living. I had only visited Tijuana before where I visited neighborhoods with Barbarita which were composed of houses created by old garage doors so I wasn’t sure what to expect but I can guarantee you that this wasn’t it. Of course, Juriquilla is a suburb of Queretaro and most of it is shiny and new. Parks and plazas are everywhere. This doesn’t mean that there are not places in the city where housing is not in dire straits but since I believe many people think that Mexico only consists of sub-standard housing I wanted you to see the other side. So here are some pictures of the area and a few houses in different parts of the state too. I will miss this place. I will miss my neighborhood strolls. It is almost time to leave and I will leave a piece of my heart here. Enjoy!
Here are some other houses located in the State of Queretaro
And here is the local dog walker in the local park with his charges….
You Should Be A Traveling Fool2.com 