Lima Peru…One Of The Most Beautiful Cities In The World

When we decided to visit Lima Pera it came quite a shock to us that it was one of the premier gastronomy delights in the world. After residing here for five days we have also discovered that it is one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in the world blessed with incredible weather and amazing views.

Lima is built high on a cliff and below it runs something akin to the Pacific Coast Highway of California. The city is putting a lot of time and money into this area and while driving you will see all sorts of activities available to locals and tourists alike. From sand volleyball courts, to an Olympic-sized pool, skateboard park, and basketball courts; Lima is working hard to re-make itself into a city for all ages and all interests. Meanwhile, up on the cliffs there are miles of walking trails looking down on the Pacific Ocean, pocket parks, and plenty of new high-rise apartments. Mom and Pop restaurants are everywhere as are local shops. You won’t find the big box stores in these neighborhoods. We are in staying in artsy-artsy neighborhood of Barranco and walk over to Barrio Miraflores everyday utilizing the giant overpass that stretches from one part of one city to the other.

Walking through Barranco the other day we found several gems. One was the Second Home Peru Guesthouse. Once owned by Peruvian sculptor, Victor Delfin, the hotel features his artwork throughout the grounds and has a quaint public bar with outdoor seating overlooking the ocean. It really is a place to get away and relax for an hour or two as you explore the barrio.

We also found three incredible stores which feature artisans from Peru. It was difficult to take my hands off the smooth beauty of the fine furniture which one can preview at Arteanos Don Bosco. While at tienda Dedalo the ceramics and textiles were a feast for the eyes. Street artist Jade Rivera’s gallery was an explosion of colors and abstract meanings which make those viewing his work stop and contemplate the known and consider what may previously been the unknown. What surprised me the most was that I saw on of his giant murals in Santiago and photographed it only to find postcard copies in the gallery. Walk a little further down the block and you will come to the Mural Bridge….it is truly stunning.

The next day we ubered to the Plaza Mayor which sits in the center of the historic district. Here you can find the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, the Palace. and many more smaller churches and museums within a couple of blocks.

The Cathedral was founded in 1535 but has undergone many renovations since due to earthquakes which damaged the building many times over the years. Inside, there are creepy crypts, thirteen chapels and rooms which house sacred religious art.

Sepulcher Room of Don Francisco Pizarro

After leaving the Cathedral we heard some marching band music and headed over to the Palace where it so happened that the changing go the guard was taking place! What a delightful stumble as I have always tried to attend these and I had no clue that they did such a thing in Lima.

We then headed to lunch and if I can give a piece of advice…don’t eat around the Plaza Mayor. The food is expensive and not particularly good but I have to confess I like the free Pisco sours they had out to get you into a restaurant!

We then stumbled upon the MUCEN also known as the Banco Central De Reserva Del Peru. Housed in an old bank building this museum offers up contemporary art, traditional artwork of the Pre-Columbian peoples of the area and paintings from the 1600-1800’s. It is a great little museum and just perusing the building is worth it. There is no entrance fee.

From there we happened up the Centro Cultural Inca Garcilaso another small museum.

I think it is important to let you know that the smaller ancient churches downtown have limited hours usually from 9-12 and from 5-8 pm. We were disappointed to miss some of these gems and think it is worth the time spent to visit them if you can.

At this point I am just going to dump some photos that I hope you will enjoy. Lima really is an incredible city and it’s a place I will probably return to again and again. Moderate weather, beautiful scenery, a fascinating history, easy walking neighborhoods, and a feeling of safety makes this an ideal place to spend time and explore until your heart is content.

San Juan Del Sur – Nicaragua

Going to Nicaragua is a different experience. We had to leave the truck behind, pay exit fees at the Costa Rican border, walk a distance in the ” NO MAN’S LAND” which lies between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, pay $1 outside of the Nicaragua customs building, stand in line for about 20 minutes to get to see a customs official, pay another $13 (I think), have our luggage scanned and then exit the building walk about 300 meters to the Alamo Car Rental.

Driving is easy as they drive on the same side of the road as in the USA but what struck me first were two things: beautiful trees on both sides of the road created a beautiful green canopy as we drove. It was gorgeous and reminded me of the East Coast. The second thing that I found interesting is as we traveled down the main highway (NO POTHOLES!!! unlike Costa Rica) there were cows and horses tied up to the fences all a long the road. It was amazing.

It is only about a 45 minute drive from the border to San Juan Del Sur. It is an old beach town that is slowly getting discovered by tourists but retains its gritty but sweet character from years gone by. We were located at the bay but there are beautiful beaches all around the area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and what a gorgeous sunset it was. This is a real fishing town so watching the boats head out to sea and return with family waiting for them is a reminder of that “waiting history” that fishing hubs around the world have experienced for eons.

Night time is interesting here as there are beach volleyball games with families watching the kids do their thing. Horses meander along side the water and parrots squawk in the trees. The town basically rolls up the sidewalk at 8 pm as families walking hand-in-hand head back to home.

The next couple of days were a blur. We walked the town peeking in shops and enjoying the street markets. Grills were set up on the street where you could buy pollo and rice for about $2-3 bucks. I loved watching the women and men carrying their wares on their heads, the buzz of the street market, and the kindness of the people we talked to along the way. Everyone was friendly and put up with my attempts at speaking Spanish, often teaching me a word or two along the way.

We also visited the local park and church which is incredibly beautiful in its simplicity. In addition, you can’t help but view The Christ of the Mercy which is a colossal statue of Jesus Christ which rises to a height of 134m above sea level and can be seen throughout the town.

While here we took time to look at real estate that is for sale in the area. Take a look at this three-bedroom beauty which was selling for $459,000 with pristine teak woodwork and views that were amazing. One of my favorite was a small villa in a gated pool community which was selling for $140,000 with HOA’s of $400 per month

If you know me; you know I love a good mural. From the out-of-this world type of paintings to the murals that can bring tears to your eyes; San Juan del Sur has plenty of talented artists offering up their best.

I loved San Juan Del Sur and who knows I might end up there one day. But for now I leave you with the local high school band practicing on the Main Street of the town.

SOUTH HAVEN MICHIGAN

Sometimes you just have to do a travel piece in pictures because as it is often said, “A picture is worth a thousand words.” Here’s looking at you South Haven!

Yes, it can get a bit crowded in the summer. And yes, parking can be an issue too but one of my favorite touristy towns along Lake Michigan is South Haven. Why? It has a town center that has so much charm and personality it bursts at the seams. A sandy beach with an ice cream parlor, a walkable jetty, and green parks lining the water. Interesting mom and pop shops with flower boxes and statues that beg you to explore the area. Neighborhoods with adorable old houses that the residents take pride in. A free kids water park. Rides on the Friends Good Will, a top sail merchant ship early 18th century reproduction which plies the waters of South Haven during the summer. Cafe Julia a much beloved eatery with fresh baked goods. And, of course, the infamous red lighthouse.

Round Basket Boats-China Beach, Vietnam

I loved Vietnam. I loved everything about it including the people, the food and the scenery. But one of the things I loved the most was the round boats that sat on the sands of China Beach.

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I noticed my first one near sunset when we first stepped on onto the fine white sand. Something about the shape of it drew me in and I wanted to see more. So I walked over to a red one pulled up on the shore. It was full of fishing nets in the bottom with two simple oars resting on the top of the nets. A white plastic bucket fit in along the side of this beautiful red vessel that looked like something the Owl and the Pussycat surely would have sailed in.

These round boats are hardly unique in the world but they are abundant here. They are crafted of split bamboo which is dried in the sun, bent, woven into shape, and then tarred or varnished in order to waterproof the craft. They are excellent at repelling ocean creatures that bore into wood boats but leave these beautiful baskets alone. They are used because they are flexible, light weight, and are capable of carrying a heavy load. But one of their biggest assets is that they are able to pass through the rough surf that dots that Vietnamese coast allowing lone fishermen to get out to sea quickly and easily.

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I come from a long line of Nova Scotia and Massachusetts fisherman. My 2nd great grandfather, Angus McKay, was the captain of the Marsala, a John Pew and Son company boat. He accidentally stranded on a reef during a fierce snowstorm in 1889. Angus died from exposure and pneumonia leaving a young wife and family.  Mr. Pew hired my great -grandmother as his secretary and saved the family from ruin. Back then, fisher folk looked out for one another in that kind of way.

Fishing boats  and fishermen are in my blood. I see them both out in the waves working together to bring in the haul and I think there is nothing better than the sea and man working in tandem. And as I watched the slight old men pushing their round boats to the waters edge in Vietnam, I thought of the fishermen around the world that share a dream and a love of the ocean.

Undoubtedly,  Angus would have loved to have skippered one of these.

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Dragon’s Breath Zip Line-Labadee, Haiti

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Okay, I am cheating here because I am not following the idea of blogging about all the wonderful places I have been. Instead this post is about a place I have never been to but desperately want to experience.  It is the Dragons Breath Zip Line in Labadee, Haiti. I guess this is what happens when you challenge your fears as I did last week in the skydiving incident. It makes you want to test those fears again in the different way.

As you know I am desperately afraid of heights but when I saw this I immediately thought, “Now that it something I want to do!” So I researched it. And I found out I have to take a cruise to partake. A Royal Caribbean cruise in particular. This definitely is a problem. I get severely sea sick.

Once we took a three day cruise from LA – Catalina Island, Ca – Ensenada, Mexico. I literally couldn’t walk straight for two days and could not climb at ladder for a week. This on some of the smoothest seas known to man. SIGH. I swore then that I would never go on another cruise. And I haven’t.

But if you are planning on cruising around the Caribbean anytime soon you might want to put this adventure on your list. After all, if zipping over the seas surrounded by beautiful scenery doesn’t make your heart go BOOM then probably nothing ever will.

 

 

Mushroom Houses-Charlevoix, Michigan

In the beautiful resort town of Charlevoix, Michigan lie an amazing array of “mushroom” homes designed by Earl Young (1889-1975). For a span of 52 years this insurance man/realtor spent time designing and/or building over 30 homes in the area. Following Frank Lloyd Wright’s philosophy that a home should fit into the landscape of the area; Young crafted his “hobbit” or “fairyland” houses of local stone many with “hidden” doorways. He refused to remove trees in order to build, instead, incorporating them into his designs. He also employed the use of multiple curved lines in his masterpieces foregoing the traditional use of straight lines and angles.

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Many of Young’s houses can be found in the Boulder Park area of the city. Each home is unique; some large and ornate while others are more mouse-house sized. During the summer there are occasional tours of these homes but brochures which offer a self-guided walking tour can be had at the Charlevoix Chamber of Commerce.

But if visiting the inside of a Young building is on your bucket list  you can always head over to the Weathervane Terrace Inn and Suites. Located on the Pine River overlooking Round Lake it is the perfect place to explore Young’s sense of play in his creations.

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Today, new houses are springing up in the area reminiscent of the ones designed by Young. Below is a beautiful example that I saw being built last summer (2015). Utilizing thatch like many of Young’s early homes, it gives this unique and stately beauty the sense of being an old English manor located somewhere on that great Island.

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While there are many other things to do in Charlevoix  besides house gazing there are few places you will ever visit that has such a wonderful legacy available to anyone on a drive-by. So slow it on down and head into town. It’s definitely worth a stop.

 

 

 

Best Restaurant On The Beach-Cook Islands

Sure you can dine on many a swanky spot along the beach in many parts of the world but for spectacular dining at a decent price it is hard to beat Vaima Polynesian Bar and Restaurant outside Rarotonga in the picture perfect Cook Islands.

Arrive early for steps from the ocean seating with glorious sunsets and the lull of the waves lapping near your feet the ambiance doesn’t get much better than this. As night falls you may spot ghost crabs as they scuttle along in the sand and the stars will align to produce a spectacular natural show.

Vaima serves the best mango daiquiri I have ever tasted. Pair it with the establishments signature salt and pepper calamari served with hot and sour dipping sauce and you will be soon drooling for a second helping of both. Of course, you can never go wrong with the catch of the day which was plucked fresh from the ocean just hours prior. Orange glazed lamb was another favorite.

Come for the atmosphere and stay for the food should be the slogan of this charming eatery. And with the Cook Islands as your daily playground, well, it really doesn’t get much better than this.

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Money Saving Hint: From the United States if you fly with Air New Zealand you should be able to get a free stopover in Auckland. To get this you must book through the airline. It is a great deal if it is still available. Doesn’t hurt to ask!