Yamdrok Lake In Tibet

When we were in Tibet two months ago I was concerned by the lack of snow throughout the country. For a place that is SUPPOSE to be a land of snow capped mountains there was very little snow and the country looked as dry as Arizona. It makes me wonder how this will effect the many sacred lakes in the country. Yamdrok is one of these mystical/sacred places.

Yamdrok Lake is one of the three largest fresh water sacred lakes in Tibet. It is said that lake came about by the transformation of a goddess. Lakes and mountains in this nation are believed to be the dwelling places of deities that protect individuals and as such they are given spiritual powers too. People make pilgrimages to these holy lakes and mountains to pray and receive good karma from them and the gods that inhabit them. Tibetans believe that if this lake runs dry it Tibet will cease to exist because it will no longer be habitable. Given that the glacier above the lake has receded at such an alarming rate and that there is very little snow in the area it is likely that this may come about.

While we were there we walked down to the lake and on the way visited with this magnificent Tibetan Mastiff. He was regal and gentle as a lamb. Back in the day his job was to guard and protect the sheep from wolves, leopards and other large wold predators and in some places you can still find them roaming the Himalayans with their herds.

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Once we reached the lake Dave took his newly acquired necklace and immersed it in it’s sparkling cold sacred waters for good luck. I don’t know if it worked but I can tell you that no harm has befallen us since. You can make your own conclusions about that.DSC01621

Sonora Celtic Festival-Sonora, CA

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The Sonora Celtic Festival is undoubtedly one of the biggest Celtic festivals in the nation and with thirty years experience of throwing a HUGE shindig these people know how to put on a show.

This years bands were once again totally amazing. With Celtica, Wicked Tinkers, Tempest and Golden Bough fronting the stage you couldn’t help but rock and reel. Of course there are many amazing pipe bands who drone you out including the Stag and Thistle Pipe Band out of Fresno, California.

One of the largest living history villages celebrating over 2000 years of Celtic history is set up for the weekend. Here you will find dedicated folk cooking, eating, dressing, and celebrating as they did so long ago. Jousting by the Imperial Knights and The Highland Throwers also give you a thrilling taste of the sport back in the day. And whatever you do stay out of the way of the armored fighters or you might just feel the slick metallic edge of the sword against your neck.

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While there you must stop into the clan booths and find out about “your people” and the history of the clans in Scotland. There are also over 100 Celtic craftsmen, artisans and vendors displaying their wares.

And of course there is the food. Roasted turkey legs, meat pies and haggis are a few of the family favorites which we eat while watching the Irish step and Scottish highland dancers. But the best offering  bar none is the whiskies and ales. You must do a taste test to discover your favorite belly warming drink.

The Sonora Celtic Festival is held every March in Sonora, California. To learn more visit:

http://www.sonoracelticfaire.com/

 

A Sport Fit For Kings…School of Falconry

After a short walk past perfectly manicured grounds of Ashford Castle we arrive at the Ireland’s School of Falconry where an elderly gentleman, looking like a character out of Harry Potter, is working with an owl who thinks he is a human. All hawks think this way too, “but they believe they are the superior one in the “relationship,” explains theowner of the school Deborah Knight. While Knight would not part with one of her birds the hawks would unceremoniously dump her for a half a plump chicken leg. For chicken legs are to the hawk like diamonds are to the gold digger and both can never get enough of them. And so this is the most important thing we discover about hawks; they have no sense of loyalty. They do not wish to please nor do they perform out of any sense of affection for the falconer. They only fly and return because they associate the falconer with food. It truly is an one-sided “affair”.

Deborah has been a falconer for over 25 years and is an expert on hawks. Her passion and enthusiasm about “her birds” and the sport of falconry is contagious. Throughout our stay Knight peppers us with tidbits of information. From Knight we learn:

Hawks see in iridescent colors meaning that the world is much more colorful for them than for us

Hawks are the fastest creatures on earth reaching speeds of 234 miles per hour

Hawks pupils are independent of one another which means that they can scope in on one an object while still scanning in the distance with the other eye

 Hawks don’t fly unless they are looking for something to eat

After being introduced all the birds it is time to go on our Hawk Walk. I put on the thick leather glove while Deborah fetches, Uisce, a magnificent Harris hawk. He is a young,handsome and commanding with stout talons and dark feathers which dance in the sunlight. His eyes are dark and twitch constantly as he scans the landscape in a hyper-vigilant sort-of-way .

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As we walk to the hawking grounds I remove Uisce’s jesses which are the leather straps attached to his talons. The bells attached to his leg jingle in anticipation of the hunt. I predict that when Uisce leaves the glove it will feel like a gun recoil. Instead, he pushes away gently, disappearing from sight almost immediately. I place a scrawny chicken leg between my fingers in the glove and wait. The bells give away Uisce’s position as he suddenly appears out of nowhere soaring straight towards me. But its not the way-high-up-in-the-sky kind of soaring but a very low to the ground glide which makes this hawk fly with little effort. Keeping my arm outstretched and steady, Uisce swings upward and alights heavily on my arm. In a split second he grabs his treat and wraps his wings around it (called mantling) to protect it from any creature who thinks they may want it…me included.

We repeat this flight pattern numerous times as we fly through the vast castle grounds learning more with each takeoff and return about how a hawk hunts and maneuvers.  How he does it is fascinating and it makes us somewhat jealous wishing that we too could skim the clouds.

We also barnstorm through the dense forest with Uisce appearing like a ghost out of nowhere, hidden by the trees, until swooping down upon us. Suddenly the bird refuses to return. He has spotted some bicycles nearby and they make him wary of leaving his perch. Finally with the cyclists gone Uisce returns to us feathers ruffled. It is time for him to rest and time for us to take our leave.

If you ever get a chance to participate in some aspect of falconry it is worth your time. You’ll learn so much about the sport and you will never look at these magnificent creatures without a sense of awe.

The School Of Falconry, Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, Ireland

info@falconry.ie

Where For Art Thou… Cider Mills-Michigan

Since I live in California fall is but a blip on the seasonal weather screen. While most places have four seasons we have two: hot and hotter. Usually we can count the number of days on both hands that we have experienced the seasons of spring (5 this year) and fall (8 days) each year.For a Midwest born girl it truly is a sad state of affairs.

I confess that I miss the changing colors of the leaves. The chill in the air when fall arrives. The first frost on the grass and trying to ward off freezing temperatures under a blanket during the football games at the local high school. But what I really miss is cider. The fresh crisp and oh-so-sweet taste of those just pressed apples as the juice first tickles your tastebuds on the way down. And of course, you cannot have cider without the perfect chaser…a steaming cinnamon sugar donut right out of the bubbly hot oil. To me the smell of fall is warm cinnamon donuts and apples.

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(The Cider Mill As I Remember It)

When I was a kid my parents used to bundle my sister and I up and make the annual pilgrimage to the Franklin Cider Mill in Franklin, Michigan. I can still remember watching the water wheel going round and crushing loads of apples right before my eyes; the golden brown nectar spilling into the trough on the way to being bottled. There was something magical in seeing the process of those just picked apples turning into something so sweet and delicious. I loved everything about it and still do. Recently, I was fortunate to re-visit the Franklin Mill and it still has the same charm that I remember even though things are done quite differently now. And if under oath I would swear that the building seems to have shrunk since I was 8 years old but the special flavors of fall are still exactly as I remember.

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Two years ago on a trip to see my dad he took me to a cider mill in his area. With hayrides, fresh donuts, a zip line and all the cider you could possibly drink it was a fun way to kill a little time. VerHage Fruit Farms & Cider Mill sits just outside Kalamazoo and besides your typical fall fare they celebrate Christmas in a big way with elves, reindeer and pony rides. They even have a tractor driving school complete with certificate.th-1

Its a place I would love to create memories with my own kids if only we lived nearby.

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So this fall, search out your nearest Cider Mill and take the kids. You’ll never regret the time you spend together sippin’ on cider and munching on donuts.

 

 

Best Place To Go Near The Airport-Narita, Japan

If you have ever been stuck in an airport you know the importance of being stuck in the right airport meaning an airport near a great tourist destination. The town of Narita outside Tokyo Japan is just such a place.

We took a bus from the airport into Narita proper. Here you will find crooked winding streets that lead you to the showpiece of the city…Naritasan Shinshoji Temple. On your way to the temple stop to explore the wooden shops along Naritasan Omote Sando. Here you will find some of the most beautiful silk kimonos that you will ever see, traditional Japanese cooking utensils and lacquered bento boxes, and bins of souvenirs to suit the fancy of just about every tourist.  While in the area you must eat at the restaurants which feature the fake plastic food in their windows for easy ordering of traditional Japanese cuisine.

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We have been to Narita several times. On one trip we were walking down to the temple when we came upon a festival with large group of older women performing several traditional Japanese dances. Their slow graceful movements were mesmerizing as they moved in unison together like a swarm of butterflies.

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On another trip school children swarmed around us while handing us a card asking if they might practice their English with us. We spent a fun 10 minutes answering their questions until we moved on and stumbled upon the Narita Tourist Pavilion where we were snatched off the street by some very insistent older ladies. They lead us upstairs where we were treated to calligraphy lessons, traditional painting instruction and were dressed in traditional Japanese clothing. All this was followed by a tea ceremony. We had a fantastic time and it was one of the highlights of our trip.

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The Naritasan Shinshoji Temple is one of the most peaceful places I have ever visited.The temple was founded in 940 and has classic traditional buildings dotting its grounds. Incense fills the air as you enter through the gate. Intricate carvings adorn the buildings forcing you to slow down and take in all hidden artwork. With gardens that look like they are manicured by tweezers and beautiful statues it is a niche of tranquility in an otherwise bustling city. We have watched as hundreds of babies were blessed by the monks and have been in awe as people pay their respects to the dead. This is a special place in a city that has had its share of growth pangs thanks to the arrival of the Narita Airport in the late 1970’s.

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Narita also has an easy to navigate train station. We took the train into Tokyo to see a performance at the Kabuki Theater and arrived back in Narita worn-out but satisfied with our adventure.

Narita is the perfect place to spend some time outside of the airport and if you have a long layover I would urge you to check out this friendly city.

HINT: Narita is great place for a stopover. Check and see if United Airlines still offers a free stopover when traveling to various points in Asia.

One Of The Strangest Places I Have Ever Stayed-Belize

Admittedly, it has been about seven years since I have been to the Maruba Resort and Jungle Spa so things may have changed but for this hippie at heart I hope not because there is no other place like it on earth.

We booked this “exotic” jungle hotel through Expedia. The price was right and the pictures were enticing. When we arrived we felt like we had been transported back to the early 1970’s a time of peace and free love. Something about the resort was just a little quirky and  very “groovy.” Turns out a doctor had spent years building this place with his loving hands. With visionary huts and uniquely decorated rooms it wasn’t hard to get into the “RELAX…you are on vacation”vibe . The viper rum with a real snake in the bottle added to the “high” of the place and it definitely made you want to curl up by the pool in a comfy lounge after drinking it as its warmth slowly snaked and spread throughout your body.

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The food at Maruba was fabulous and the hibiscus flowers gracing every plate was a huge change from modern hotel fare. There was also a spa offering such delights as mud baths/massages, body scrubs and manicures to pamper the senses. We partook of several spa treatments and came away from them relaxed from the top of our heads to the bottom of our toes; our souls soothed and quenched. Lush wildflowers and orchids added to the natural beauty of the place along with the natural hot baths that magically melted our bodies upon entering the water.

The hotel also rented bicycles so we biked into the nearest “town” and saw a giant anteater run across the road along the way. We sampled local food in town (yum) and when we returned we booked a river journey to a lost Mayan civilization (more about that another time) Horseback riding was also available along with jungle hikes and private exercise lessons.

It wasn’t until we had been there a few days and had seen the huge stockpile of carved penises, naked folks and fertility gods hidden along the jungle pathways that we finally got up the courage and asked…yep the place had been a swingers club back in the day hence the “make love not war” feeling that permeated the place and kept you “in the mood.” Needless to say, we had a very romantic and wonderful time with all the gentle reminders that love and relaxation were the name of the game here.

HINT: You are in the jungle so be sure to bring bug spray. We did not and ended up remembering our trip longer than we would have like after contracting Dengue Fever. We have no idea if it was at Maruba or on Ambergris Caye that the nasty mosquito bit us but it is wise to take precautions wherever you go in Belize.

 

Cedar Breaks National Monument-Utah

We first fell in love with Cedar Breaks National Monument and the surrounding area in 1993. Just four hours away from Las Vegas this was the place we went to for rest and relaxation when we wanted to escape “Sin City.”

The scenery is breathtaking here with natural red rock ampitheaters and meadows that are wide with bubbling brooks and colored a thousand different of shades of green. But it is not that time of year that I want to examine. It is now, in the dead of winter, during which this land truly sparkles.

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Cold. Yes it is cold. It is also the time (usually mid-November until May)  when Highway 148 closes due to heavy snowfall. Then the magic begins when this road becomes a groomed trail within the monument in which to snowshoe, ski and snowmobile. And after January on Saturdays you will find the Ranger Station open at the North Alpine Trailhead where you can often find a cup of hot chocolate waiting. While there is a lot of fun to be had remember in winter you are essentially on your own. Snowstorms descend quickly and drifts 10-20 ft high can be unexpected and dangerous.

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There is another reason Cedar Breaks is such a unique and special place especially in winter.  It has one of the darkest and clearest night skies in the entire country.  Bring along a telescope or two to see nebulae, planets and fantastic galaxies in a place thats daytime beauty is memorable while its nighttime is downright spectacular! The parks system also hosts Star Parties in the evenings during the summer.  In the winter Star Parties are hosted at the Navajo Lodge in Brian Head a nearby ski resort. Telescopes are provided. Click here for more information. http://www.nps.gov/cebr/upload/2016WinterStarParties.pdf

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To get to the trailhead take Highway 143 through the town on Brian Head to the junction of highway 148. There you will find a plowed parking lot at which to begin your outdoor winter adventure.

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Namdaemun Market-Seoul, South Korea

Lately, with globalization around every corner it is hard to go somewhere and not think to yourself that the whole world now looks alike.  Window shopping at Pottery Barn looks the same in Kansas City, Calgary and Sydney. That is the point, I suppose, but for a traveler it is just plain depressing. Where is the unique to the place items and where are the  local customs…Often you begin to wonder …where the hell are we?????… in this oh-so identical world.

That is what I love about Namdaemun Market. Opened in Seoul in 1964 it is the largest market in Korea but it really dates back to the reign of King Taejong where it operated as a government managed marketplace. This place is truly the SEOUL of the city.

While there are certainly an overabundance of crass commercially made products it is the pulse of the place that draws you into the market and into Korea herself. Some of the best street food can be found here including  noodle dishes, pungent kim chee, hottoek and comforting warm red bean cakes. Follow an alleyway to the place where you find the most Koreans sitting on shallow stools, chopsticks and bowl in hand. This is where you want to enjoy an authentic lunch.

Because the market was built so long ago it is predominately a walking market. While you will see motorcycles delivering goods and boxes being transported by wooden carriers strapped to the backs of men smaller than the load they are carrying; this is a place to explore at your leisure and just soak up the sounds.

Here  at Namdaemun you can shop for such things as rare ginseng, fresh fish, raincoats, shoes and even silkworms to be eaten for lunch. Traditional clothing (hanboks) can be found in a variety of bright colors and styles along with Korea’s world famous celadon pottery. Beautiful wrapping papers, paint pigments and calligraphy supplies are also easily found along with the paintings of various artists. But my favorite are the luxurious silks and tapestries that can be found within. The variety of what is sold here is enormous and there is always something you “need” to take home with you.

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Just outside the market lies Sungnyemun Gate. It is one of the eight gates that were located in the fortress wall that surrounded Seoul. It is a wooden pagoda style building that dates back to the 14th century and has stood there ever since until an arson fire burnt part of the gate in 2008. It was restored and was re-opened in 2013.

To get to the market take the green subway line (number 4) to Hoehyeon Station. It is a short escalator ride up the the market.

Sharktooth Hill-Bakersfield, CA

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If you want to give your family the experience of digging through the dirt why not head out to Sharktooth Hill? It’s a great place to spend the day and learn about the things that used to lurk in the deep.

Once a vast ocean, the area is home to the largest deposit of Miocene marine fossils in the world. Here you will find vertebrae from whales and marine crocodiles just laying on the ground. Dig a little deeper and you will unearth shark teeth from Mako and extinct tiger sharks. Dolphins, walrus, sea cows and even desmostylus once swam freely here. So did extinct giant turtles, over 20 kinds of water birds and more than 27 species of shark and rays. Mammal finds include the tapir, rhino, and three-toed horses.

Sharktooth Hill is on private property and digs are scheduled. To find out more go to:

http://www.sharktoothhillproperty.com

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A couple of things.  First of all before starting out you might want to visit the Buena Vista Museum of Natural History and Science in Bakersfield. The museum houses vast amounts of material brought from the site.  They also have dinosaur casts, animal mounts from around the world and an interactive Science Discovery Center. It is a small museum and they do offer periodic digs at Sharktooth Hill as a fundraiser.

When on a dig be sure to bring plenty of water. It can get hot out in this desolate mountain area. Buckets for sorting and carrying your finds are needed as are hammers. Also you should consider using a mask when digging. In this part of California there is a fungal infection that can develop in the lungs called  Coccidioidomycosis or Valley Fever for short . Valley Fever occurs when freshly dug spores are inhaled and they are plentiful throughout the San Joaquin Valley. While the numbers of people who contract this are low it is of concern especially for those whose immune systems may be compromised.