The Haciendas-Oh My!

Historically, a hacienda is a huge estate brought to this area through the effort of Spanish Colonization. These vast tracks of land covered entire valleys and were responsible for agricultural enterprises and often the forced servitude of indigenous peoples. Today, many of buildings have been turned into upscale hotels and restaurants which are amazing to visit. I have been to a couple since I arrived and today I am going to share them with you.

Hacienda Laborcilla

Nested in the heart of the city of Queretaro; Laborcilla literally took my breath away. Built in the 18th century the hacienda once served as a main house for the family, a school, and even an event hall over the years. Now open to the public as a grand restaurant, the food and the atmosphere are simply magnificent. The gardens are drop dead gorgeous and the menu is divine.

I have to tell you that coffee here in Mexico is truly remarkable and when you order juice is it always fresh squeezed. It is an amazing way to start your day… combined with the basket of fresh pastries that was brought our table almost immediately upon being seated.

For breakfast I had enchiladas suiza which were filled with chicken breast and cheese topped with bacon. It was an amazing desayuno.

But while the food was excellent I will have to say that it is the atmosphere that people come here for. It is a place you will never forget and stunning doesn’t begin to describe it. There are orchids everywhere and butterflies float around your table as your eat. Here is the first impression upon entering.

There were many themed dining rooms throughout Laborcilla and all were amazing to step into with gorgeous Asian, Egyptian and Greek Antiques, as well as reproductions, in every nook and cranny. Just so much to feast on with the eyes and not enough time.

Here is a short video of the Club Room

What I learned from this experience is always say !!!!YES!!!! when someone invites you to breakfast in Mexico because you never know what wonderful things await you.

THE HOTEL MISION GRAND JURIQUILLA

The first former hacienda I visited is now a grand hotel called the Hotel Mision Grand Juriquilla. It’s another 18th century hacienda which has been beautifully restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant. With a historic church on the grounds and landscaping that makes you want to hire their head gardener, Hotel Mision is a place that you can easily call home when traveling. Take a look for yourself.

I have been told that there are so many beautiful historical haciendas throughout the country that I am thinking that I might just make it a goal of mine to visit each and every one. With so much charm and the fact that these amazing buildings just ooze history; visiting a hacienda today is like a trip back in time combined with the elegance of today, which, makes visiting these historic sites land at the top of my bucket list while in Mexico.

Plaza De Armus in Queretaro

I love this plaza. Besides being surrounded by great restaurants, beautiful historical buildings, and cute little shops; it is the place where the locals come to sit a spell and to dance to the live music. And anytime you can dance on the street or at an open air plaza you know you are in for a memorable time. How I wished at that moment I had someone to dance with! I spent a good half-hour people watching and it was a great way to pass the time under the shade of the beautiful old trees which fill the plaza. I thought I would try something new and throw in a couple of videos.

From there I was lured by the bells ringing at the Parish of Santiago calling the faithful into its doors. I slipped into the church and spent some time reflecting before heading out into the town again.

Eventually I ended up at Plaza De Armus again and just soaked up the culture of the place. What a marvelous way to spend a Sunday!

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

San Miguel Allende – The Art Scene

I had such a wonderful day with Denise in San Miguel that I have decided to create two posts. This one is about the Art / Antique Scene in this lovely town. Tomorrow I will post pictures throughout the city…watch out there are some wild ones! Now onto the arts….

San Miguel became a haven for artists after the end of WWII. Many US soldiers who had a GI Bill came to the area to study and participate in the arts and in doing so they helped to create an artist haven. Much of this growth was attributed to an American named Stirling Dickinson whose connections allowed returning soldiers to attend Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. Over 6,000 students had applied for admission by January 1948 and the San Miguel slowly made its way from near ghost town to the vibrant place that it is today. In 2008 the city was named as a UNESCO Heritage site and five times Condé Nast Traveler has deemed it “the Best Small City in the World.”

The first place Denise took me to was a consignment store named La Fina that I could have easily roamed through for an entire week. Because San Miguel is such a city of affluent Mexicans and foreigners this shop held treasures beyond belief. I loved the twelve foot high bookcases which towered like skyscrapers along with furniture from all over the world. Take a look….this is my kind of place.

From La Fina we ventured forth to La Aurora which is a former factory repurposed into an art gallery/wine bar/ food haven. The building is magnificent as are the gardens and there is something new to view around every corner. If you love all things artsy this is your place and you might even be able to meet some of the artists as they work in their studios.

From La Aurora we went deeper into town and visited some small galleries as we walked the streets. I love the beaded work (Huichol art) and the intricacy of these pieces is just amazing. I know I would never have the kind of patience it would take to set each bead into place. Same goes with the Mexican Tree of Life Sculptures which are made of clay usually featuring indigenous people and religious themes.

iThere you go a short tour of some of the best places to visit in San Miguel Allende for art/antiques and just plain wonderful finds. The day was memorable and the items I saw just spectacular. I want to go back again today…want to join me?!

The Plants In My Neighborhood

I’ll make this short and sweet tonight!

Sometimes I am in just in awe of the world around me and it’s during those times that I grab my camera and start shooting. Lately, I have found that when I take a walk around my neighborhood in Juriquilla; I am inspired by the architecture and plant life around me. While I may not know the name of what is growing up from the earth; I do know what I like. And so here is a collage of the plants I admire while on my daily walk. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

The Aqueduct of Queretaro, Mexico

While the city of Queretaro is known for many historical buildings perhaps the one that holds the true key to its citizens hearts is it’s infamous and monumental aqueduct. Best of all, this massive Roman-style stone behemoth is not located in some obscure out of the way site but instead graces the city as it rides across the skyline. In fact, on one of Queretaro’s main freeways through the city you drive right under the spans! Interesting facts: Standing 93 ft tall at its highest point this ancient waterway is comprised of 74 towering arches that stretch an almost 4200 feet across Queretaro; making it one of the city’s easiest historical treasures to find.

Construction commenced around 1732 and work was completed on October 17, 1738. Legend says that the Marquis, Juan Antonio, had this constructed at the request of a Capuchin nun, with whom he was in love. She stressed that the nuns and the surrounding community needed clean water to be able to fulfill their duties. While a testament for the love of a woman makes for a wonderful story, it is more likely that Juan Antonio, funded the aqueduct to increase his personal net worth and to create a lasting legacy.

If you want to have a birdseye view of the entire aqueduct head to the observation point located across from the Pantheon of the Illustrious Queretarians. This area has several local vendors ready to sell you local souvenirs and a quick walk down the street will deliver you many small restaurants. But the main attraction to to view the aqueduct.

After this vantage point turn around and you will find the Pantheon De Los Queretanos Illustres. Built in 1847 for the Santa Cruz convent; it is now a cemetery filled with the bones and statues of some of the areas greatest leaders who fought for Mexican Independence. The Chapel of the Virgin of Sorrows stands tall within these gates and is known as the patron saint of the cemetery.

Both of these famous monuments of Queretaro should be a first stop when exploring a city rich in history, museums and lovely old churches but don’t stop there. Spend a few days here and immerse yourself. Eat the food. Enjoy the people and find out what Mexico really has to offer.

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.

Great Food From Around The World

I have to say that I have had some very good food in my travels. Most were fairly inexpensive food choices but a few came at quite a cost. I have found that I usually prefer the cheap eats except when it comes to anything YAK….YUCK!

The best meal that comes to mind was had in a small village in Thailand. We had been treking when I lost the lubricating fluid in my knees. Every step that I took ground bone on bone and it was excruciating. I walked one step at a time with tears rolling down my face. It got so bad that the guide, Boone, had his other guide take everyone else up ahead to the small village we would be staying in that night. Meanwhile, Boone, carried my pack and stayed with me as I hobbled along. Finally, when we arrived there was an amazing dinner awaiting. It was fresh vegetables and tofu. Yep, that is it. My best meal ever. I don’t know if it was because I was so relieved to get to the huts that I was intensely grateful for everything or if I was just starving but never had a plate looked so inviting.

While we were in Thailand this past April I visited another restaurant and also took a cooking class from them. The name of the place is the Blue Elephant and the restaurant is located in the former governors mansion. We had a multi-course dinner that was fit for kings. It consisted of Avocado Black Diamond Scallops, Red Curry, Tiger Prawns and Eggplant Salad and some other memorable taste marvels. And the decor was just beautiful.

The best Enchiladas I have ever eaten was in The Netherlands. The place was on the coast of the country in the town of Scheveningen. I have long ago forgotten the name of the place but I can still remember their cream cheese enchiladas like it was yesterday. It was a gastronomic highlight to my trip. However, today I was taken to a place that the people I am housesitting love and I can say without a doubt best Mexican food I have ever eaten. The roadside restaurant is called Tacos Vias and it’s on the road to Bernal. You choose whether you want blue (Azul) tacos or blanco (white) masa. The lady scoops a bit of dough, pats it into shape and then throws it on the grill. You then take the plate have them put the topping on. I had beans and cheese. Then added meat, potatoes, and carrots cooked in a sauce and then laid on a nice bit of mango and cucumber salsa. Here’s a look:

A big surprise to me in my food experiences was when I ate at the Pingvinen in Bergen, Norway. Reindeer stew with salted lamb, sausage and root veggies was a new taste that my palate was not sure about while their cured reindeer marinated in lingonberries and gin was a real treat. One thing I can say was that I believed the food that was served was traditional and could be found in the coldest and smallest of villages throughout the country.

Bergen had a surprising number of fantastic places to eat including Kogi which I can honestly say had the best Korean food I have ever eaten including what I ate in Korea. The bulgogi was stupendous as was the pa-jeon. The owner was extremely friendly and gave me the recipe for her secret sauce and the dishes I sampled were divine. There was also a Burmese restaurant that we stumbled upon called Mandalay Sushi and Burmese. (Pics- Brown Cheese Dessert, Cured Reindeer, Lapskaus Stew; along with Pajeon from Kogi in bottom left corner, the menu from Pingvinen.

Places I have eaten have given me inspiration for my own cooking but nothing as much as street food in various countries. I love the corn on the cob in 12 different flavors that you find in China. This man peddling his food in the water town of  Zhouzhuang pulled the best sweet potato I have ever had off of his cart and handed it to me all hot and steamy. I also contributed to that pile of eggs sitting outside the two seater hole-in-the-wall that we ate at. 

The best desserts I ever ate were in Prague and for the life of me I cannot tell you the name of of the place but it was in the historic downtown about two blocks from the Clocktower. Maybe if you are lucky you can read the napkin which I cannot. The last picture is the fabulous bread pudding served at St. Orres on the California coast up by Gualala. This Russian inspired restaurant is one of the most beautiful on the coast and the food is always great. Look at these delights and just drool. 

Some of the drinks that stand out in mind include a particular blueberry cream smash found at the Bergens Tidende but for great drinks AND spectacular scenery I still believe that you can’t beat Nepenthe Restaurant off Highway One at Big Sir, California. Taking in the view with a lovely drink in your hand makes you believe that all is well with the world.

Oh and I guess this would not be complete with chocolate. Ethel M in Las Vegas is hands down my favorite chocolatier but a close second has got to Lakrids by Bulow Salty Caramel Chocolate Coated Licorice. I never particularly liked licorice until I tasted these dolls! Their Passion Fruit White Chocolate Coated Licorice is even better! (You can order Lakrids on Amazon!)

So there you have it. Some of my most memorable places I have eaten. I hope while I am here in Mexico to be able to add to this list. My plan is to take a cooking class while I am here in order to learn a bit more about what makes this country so spicy and delicioso.

Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary

One of the most interesting places I have visited this year is the Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary located about 150 miles north of Reno but easily accessible from Cedarville, California. Part of Dark Sky International, an organization which advocates protecting the night skies from light pollution; it’s designation marks this part of Nevada as one of the darkest places in the USA and the world. This vast area is so remote that the night sky is not impacted by human produced light resulting in some of the clearest star gazing available in the world. In fact, the Milky Way is visible by just the naked eye and the planets are so bright that it feels as if you can reach up and touch them. The night sky vistas are so immense and the number of stars so numerous it will bring tears to the eyes of the most cantankerous of old men.

The nights we were camping there the sky was teaming with stars as the coyotes howled in delight. Shooting stars flew across the night sky by the dozens and the magnificent Man in the Moon brought himself so close that you could hear his whispers as he spoke from the heavens above. This was in January 2025 and it was cold during the night with temperatures below freezing resulting in fluctuations of over 40 degrees between night and day. Since temperatures can reach over 100 degrees in the summer to me the optimum time to visit this amazing place would probably be spring or fall.

One benefit of no light pollution in an area is that it allows nocturnal animal habitats to thrive. Here you might find badgers, kangaroo rats, bats, mountain lions and a rattlesnake or two. Because of the isolation of this area it is important to bring what you might need to survive an emergency. Also, it is important to keep in mind that there is snowfall in the winter time so it is imperative to have enough supplies on hand to keep you warm and fed for several days. Further, you cannot count on cell service in this remote area so be sure to let loved ones know where you will be.

There are several markets in Cedarville (including Page’s) and at Alturas where you can pick up groceries and supplies. I can also recommend without reservation several eateries and cute little stores in Cedarville including The Vault (great coffee and knickknacks) and the Country Hearth Restaurant which serves fresh baked goods as well as amazingly large portion breakfasts.

There are numerous campgrounds in the area managed by the BLM which can be contacted for further information at:

Bureau of Land Management
602 Cressler St.
Cedarville, CA 96104
530-279-6101

While Massacre Rim takes a bit of planning and time to visit, its breathtaking night skies are out of this world and definitely worth a trip. In fact, I was so impressed and awestruck by what I experienced that I am now planning on visiting as many Dark Sky Sanctuaries as I possibly can.

For more information on Dark Sky viewing visit: dark sky.org

Steamboat Inn-North Umpqua River, Oregon

I recently had the pleasure of being introduced to the Steamboat Inn which sits along one of Oregon’s most beautiful waterways and one of the most famous fly fishing rivers in the world. Unfortunately, the Umpqua recently suffered catastrophic damage due to fire and it will be years until it truly rises from the ash; yet it still is a wondrous site to behold. Luckily, the Steamboat Inn still stands and it is one sure way to enjoy this amazing and scenic river.

The Steamboat was once “true old-time fishing lodge.” which featured infamous “Fisherman’s Dinners” for years but today it is an updated and modern inn that still retains its historic charm.. Pictures of fly fishermen and massive steelhead dot the walls and stories of the Inn’s famous guest like Jack Hemingway and Zane Grey still abound as told by the area old-timers. Former Steamboat owner, Frank Moore was a dedicated fly fisherman and he soon became a much loved guide and conservationist after taking over the inn at the beginning 1957. His love of the sport is attributed to creating “flier” enthusiasts out of mere fisherfolk for many decades.

The gardens at the Inn are beautiful and poetic. I was there in May 2025 while columbine, azaleas, rhododendrons, ferns and mountain flowers lined the pathways to the guest rooms and outdoor patio. Stunning Japanese Maples and manicured grasses also made their presence known as the Umpqua roared past showering the rock outcroppings with a fine mist. While the Steamboat’s enchanting grounds, library and menu are enough to keep its visitors sated; the abundance of nearby waterfalls and hiking trails also beckon the Inn’s guests to come and explore as do the white water rafting rapids nearby. The area is definitely a nature lover’s paradise.

While the Steamboat has historically known as “the place for those addicted to fishing” it is also the perfect place to host weddings, second honeymoons and small conferences.

Located about 40 miles from Roseburg it is easy to grab a bottle of wine produced in the Umpqua Valley wine region as you meander towards the Inn located off the North Umpqua Highway.

The Steamboat is open for breakfast from 8 am-11 am, lunch from 11 am-3 pm and dinner from 5 pm-8 pm. The food is robust and the prices are reasonable. For further information call (541) 498-2230 or visit their website at thesteamboatinn.com