Tag: Travel

THE CHURCHES-LIFE OF THE CITY

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I have been to so many churches since I arrived here. I love the architecture that these old buildings possess. The artwork, murals, painted ceilings, and biblical depictions are all inspiring (okay, a few are frightening) and help us have an insight to those things that drew people to the Catholic Church in earlier times. The thick walls of the church also provide a respite from the heat and also from life’s troubles. Perhaps what I enjoy the most though is just walking in, sitting down, and listening to the music and the chants echo off the walls of the sanctuary. It gives me a sense of peace and serenity that I can carry with me the entire day.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel- San Miguel Allende

With over 40 churches in San Miguel it is difficult to choose a favorite but Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is definitely the most well known and perhaps the most beloved of area residents. Towering over the city, the construction of the church began in the 1600’s under the auspices of the Franciscan Friars, after a smaller church from the 1500’s was demolished. The building is a surprising blend of different Neo-Gothic European influences and the resulting Spanish colonization that swept over these lands. This immense church was completed in stages at various points in history but it was when a local master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez, began construction of the current facade in 1880 that the Neo-Gothic architecture was put into place. Gutierrez had no drawings to guide him and he designed Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel after seeing pictures of the great cathedrals in Europe. To think that one man had such vision as to be able to change the entire feel of a city just amazes me.

The interior of the main building is vast. Yet, there are several different less imposing chapels including the Chapel of the Third Order with frescoes throughout which depict the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

The Chapel of the Third Order

Across from Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a city plaza with tall shade trees and park benches. It is here that you can truly feel the vibe of San Miguel and absorb the influence of the city and the locals who surround you. So take a load off…sit…listen to the church bells ring across the valley…and let yourself sink into a nation that still reveres its history and the people who still help to influence it today.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito

Another Church that I fell in love with was located in the town of Pueblito and is known as the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito. It is the church that I mentioned in my post about El Cerrito, The Pyramid of Pueblito, and it is the one that you are suppose to be able to hear the sermon from the pulpit all the way up the hill.

This church is much smaller then the one mentioned in San Miguel and it has it’s own special kind of charm that is quaint yet powerful which is evidenced by the faithful who attend daily mass.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito had its beginnings in 1632 when Friar Nicolas Zamora placed the image of Immaculate Conception near the temple where he built the first adobe structure to house her. Approval for the present day building was granted in 1720 and construction was completed in 1750. Religious festivals for Mary are mainly celebrated in mid-February when the town comes alive. However, when we were there last week, the life-size body of the Virgin, was displayed below the altar where the faithful believed that the next day she would be lifted up to heaven.

While small this church has so much to see and admire its the people whose dedication impressed me. When we were there a painter was hanging off a ladder busy painting the nave while services for the Virgin were ongoing during this week of celebration and the church was being cleaned top to bottom.

I think one of the things that made me aware of the dichotomy of past times and the modern demands of today was this sign I spied within the inner courtyard of the church. I will admit I chuckled out loud. I hope you enjoy it and a smile graces your face too.

The Least Known Pyramid In All Of Mexico

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One of the few temples to survive within a major city is El Cerrito or the Pyramid of Pueblito. Built over 3,300 years ago it is a testament to the wisdom and knowledge of the ancient people of this area. I was lucky enough to visit it early this week.

El Cerrito has a long history as a religious site and complete with altars and various ceremonial buildings. It is believed that a female deity was worshipped here. One of the plazas on the site, known as the Sculptures Plaza, had two alters one on the west and one on the east sides. Human skulls were found here along with pottery from ancient sites located throughout Mexico. Believe it or not, this was once a very colorful place decorated with highly pigmented colors of red (roja), yellow (amarillo), and blue (azul).

El Cerrito itself was constructed as a step pyramid and was built to resemble a mountain. Unfortunately, it will never be known how tall the temple originally was because in 1887 the Fernandez family built a house at the top of a “hill” shaving at least 2 meters off of the temple. The house was named El Fortin and it remains abandoned at the top of the structure to this day. One cannot blame the Fernandez family for building on top of this important archeological site; for El Cerrito was buried under tons of dirt and covered by trees for centuries until 1941 when the main walls were discovered and work began to preserve the pyramid and try to understand it’s historical importance. And with the very old immense cactus trees that can be found all over the property it is understandable why the temple was hidden for so many years.

For me one of the most amazing things is how the temple is strategically located in order to take advantage of solar alignments and the acoustics of the valley. For instance, as the sun moves across the horizon a beam of sunlight reaching the basement creates a visible sundial on the wall while an analemma pattern is created on the floor which dictates the sun’s seasonal and everyday paths. In spring the equinox creates a time and place where the sun’s beam goes past the vertical sundial and reaches a boundary that lies between the blue and orange tiles on the wall announcing the arrival of the equinox. Further, sound travels directly from and to the temple from the small hamlet of El Pueblito and it is said that you can hear the Catholic priests recite mass.

The Mexican and local government have worked hard to preserve this ancient treasure and there are beautiful walkways and an amazing visitor center on the grounds. The entrance fee is minimal and there is inexpensive parking nearby. This is definitely a great day trip and I would recommend hiring one of the guides whose knowledge of El Cerrito is vast as well as entertaining. Here he is demonstrating to us the echoes of our clapping as they disperse into town.

The Murals Are Amazing…Just Don’t Look Up!

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One of the things I have come to appreciate are all the colorful murals that you can find along the streets of Mexico no matter what city you are in. They serve to brighten up a spot as well as act as advertising billboards. The colors that are used are vibrant enough to catch the eye and burn into your brain to the point you can always find the mural again. What’s cool is that the subject matter can be just about anything and what’s more is the murals can be small as an orange crate or as large as a city block. Here are a few examples of the artwork that I have seen during my two months here.

Yet, as beautiful as they are there is one problem with murals which is tied into a significant defect in city planning and a lack of consistent building codes. I will gladly admit this is one of the few things I abhor about Mexico and if I can give you one piece of advice about this country it would be this… never look up …. always keep your eyes on the ground…and stand still if you are gazing at anything higher than your head. Then, hopefully, you should be safe and survive your journey intact.

So here it is the thing I abhor: you have no idea how many times I have been walking along looking up at the steeples and the murals and anything else that has caught my when…WHAMMMM…the side walk ends or the road height changes significantly and down I go! I am surprised I have not ended up in the hospital with a broken ankle. To give you an idea how significant the problem is here are just a few examples of this high/low problem as found on my street alone. And mind you, the driveways leading out of each house, is a different height than that their neighbors. Nothing is uniform… but it should be.

And look at this hole in the sidewalk on my way to the supermercado. It looks exactly like a replica of a category five hurricane that we are shown on the television that comes complete with warnings of imminent death should you not move to higher ground.

So while we in the USA bitch and moan about all the rules and just want government off our backs; I can tell you from experience that there is a good reason for some of regulations. And if, in the future, I don’t blog, I would fancy to say that I was one of those virgin maidens that fell into one of the gigantic holes… never to be heard from again…at least that is how the story goes in my scariest of nightmares.

The Haciendas-Oh My!

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Historically, a hacienda is a huge estate brought to this area through the effort of Spanish Colonization. These vast tracks of land covered entire valleys and were responsible for agricultural enterprises and often the forced servitude of indigenous peoples. Today, many of buildings have been turned into upscale hotels and restaurants which are amazing to visit. I have been to a couple since I arrived and today I am going to share them with you.

Hacienda Laborcilla

Nested in the heart of the city of Queretaro; Laborcilla literally took my breath away. Built in the 18th century the hacienda once served as a main house for the family, a school, and even an event hall over the years. Now open to the public as a grand restaurant, the food and the atmosphere are simply magnificent. The gardens are drop dead gorgeous and the menu is divine.

I have to tell you that coffee here in Mexico is truly remarkable and when you order juice is it always fresh squeezed. It is an amazing way to start your day… combined with the basket of fresh pastries that was brought our table almost immediately upon being seated.

For breakfast I had enchiladas suiza which were filled with chicken breast and cheese topped with bacon. It was an amazing desayuno.

But while the food was excellent I will have to say that it is the atmosphere that people come here for. It is a place you will never forget and stunning doesn’t begin to describe it. There are orchids everywhere and butterflies float around your table as your eat. Here is the first impression upon entering.

There were many themed dining rooms throughout Laborcilla and all were amazing to step into with gorgeous Asian, Egyptian and Greek Antiques, as well as reproductions, in every nook and cranny. Just so much to feast on with the eyes and not enough time.

Here is a short video of the Club Room

What I learned from this experience is always say !!!!YES!!!! when someone invites you to breakfast in Mexico because you never know what wonderful things await you.

THE HOTEL MISION GRAND JURIQUILLA

The first former hacienda I visited is now a grand hotel called the Hotel Mision Grand Juriquilla. It’s another 18th century hacienda which has been beautifully restored and now houses a hotel and restaurant. With a historic church on the grounds and landscaping that makes you want to hire their head gardener, Hotel Mision is a place that you can easily call home when traveling. Take a look for yourself.

I have been told that there are so many beautiful historical haciendas throughout the country that I am thinking that I might just make it a goal of mine to visit each and every one. With so much charm and the fact that these amazing buildings just ooze history; visiting a hacienda today is like a trip back in time combined with the elegance of today, which, makes visiting these historic sites land at the top of my bucket list while in Mexico.

Plaza De Armus in Queretaro

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I love this plaza. Besides being surrounded by great restaurants, beautiful historical buildings, and cute little shops; it is the place where the locals come to sit a spell and to dance to the live music. And anytime you can dance on the street or at an open air plaza you know you are in for a memorable time. How I wished at that moment I had someone to dance with! I spent a good half-hour people watching and it was a great way to pass the time under the shade of the beautiful old trees which fill the plaza. I thought I would try something new and throw in a couple of videos.

From there I was lured by the bells ringing at the Parish of Santiago calling the faithful into its doors. I slipped into the church and spent some time reflecting before heading out into the town again.

Eventually I ended up at Plaza De Armus again and just soaked up the culture of the place. What a marvelous way to spend a Sunday!

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

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One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

San Miguel Allende – The Art Scene

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I had such a wonderful day with Denise in San Miguel that I have decided to create two posts. This one is about the Art / Antique Scene in this lovely town. Tomorrow I will post pictures throughout the city…watch out there are some wild ones! Now onto the arts….

San Miguel became a haven for artists after the end of WWII. Many US soldiers who had a GI Bill came to the area to study and participate in the arts and in doing so they helped to create an artist haven. Much of this growth was attributed to an American named Stirling Dickinson whose connections allowed returning soldiers to attend Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. Over 6,000 students had applied for admission by January 1948 and the San Miguel slowly made its way from near ghost town to the vibrant place that it is today. In 2008 the city was named as a UNESCO Heritage site and five times Condé Nast Traveler has deemed it “the Best Small City in the World.”

The first place Denise took me to was a consignment store named La Fina that I could have easily roamed through for an entire week. Because San Miguel is such a city of affluent Mexicans and foreigners this shop held treasures beyond belief. I loved the twelve foot high bookcases which towered like skyscrapers along with furniture from all over the world. Take a look….this is my kind of place.

From La Fina we ventured forth to La Aurora which is a former factory repurposed into an art gallery/wine bar/ food haven. The building is magnificent as are the gardens and there is something new to view around every corner. If you love all things artsy this is your place and you might even be able to meet some of the artists as they work in their studios.

From La Aurora we went deeper into town and visited some small galleries as we walked the streets. I love the beaded work (Huichol art) and the intricacy of these pieces is just amazing. I know I would never have the kind of patience it would take to set each bead into place. Same goes with the Mexican Tree of Life Sculptures which are made of clay usually featuring indigenous people and religious themes.

iThere you go a short tour of some of the best places to visit in San Miguel Allende for art/antiques and just plain wonderful finds. The day was memorable and the items I saw just spectacular. I want to go back again today…want to join me?!

The Plants In My Neighborhood

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I’ll make this short and sweet tonight!

Sometimes I am in just in awe of the world around me and it’s during those times that I grab my camera and start shooting. Lately, I have found that when I take a walk around my neighborhood in Juriquilla; I am inspired by the architecture and plant life around me. While I may not know the name of what is growing up from the earth; I do know what I like. And so here is a collage of the plants I admire while on my daily walk. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.

The Aqueduct of Queretaro, Mexico

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While the city of Queretaro is known for many historical buildings perhaps the one that holds the true key to its citizens hearts is it’s infamous and monumental aqueduct. Best of all, this massive Roman-style stone behemoth is not located in some obscure out of the way site but instead graces the city as it rides across the skyline. In fact, on one of Queretaro’s main freeways through the city you drive right under the spans! Interesting facts: Standing 93 ft tall at its highest point this ancient waterway is comprised of 74 towering arches that stretch an almost 4200 feet across Queretaro; making it one of the city’s easiest historical treasures to find.

Construction commenced around 1732 and work was completed on October 17, 1738. Legend says that the Marquis, Juan Antonio, had this constructed at the request of a Capuchin nun, with whom he was in love. She stressed that the nuns and the surrounding community needed clean water to be able to fulfill their duties. While a testament for the love of a woman makes for a wonderful story, it is more likely that Juan Antonio, funded the aqueduct to increase his personal net worth and to create a lasting legacy.

If you want to have a birdseye view of the entire aqueduct head to the observation point located across from the Pantheon of the Illustrious Queretarians. This area has several local vendors ready to sell you local souvenirs and a quick walk down the street will deliver you many small restaurants. But the main attraction to to view the aqueduct.

After this vantage point turn around and you will find the Pantheon De Los Queretanos Illustres. Built in 1847 for the Santa Cruz convent; it is now a cemetery filled with the bones and statues of some of the areas greatest leaders who fought for Mexican Independence. The Chapel of the Virgin of Sorrows stands tall within these gates and is known as the patron saint of the cemetery.

Both of these famous monuments of Queretaro should be a first stop when exploring a city rich in history, museums and lovely old churches but don’t stop there. Spend a few days here and immerse yourself. Eat the food. Enjoy the people and find out what Mexico really has to offer.

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

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This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.