A Few Of My Favorite Things

As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.

My Neighborhood

One of the things that surprised me when I moved here was the very modern architecture where I am living and the high standard of living. I had only visited Tijuana before where I visited neighborhoods with Barbarita which were composed of houses created by old garage doors so I wasn’t sure what to expect but I can guarantee you that this wasn’t it. Of course, Juriquilla is a suburb of Queretaro and most of it is shiny and new. Parks and plazas are everywhere. This doesn’t mean that there are not places in the city where housing is not in dire straits but since I believe many people think that Mexico only consists of sub-standard housing I wanted you to see the other side. So here are some pictures of the area and a few houses in different parts of the state too. I will miss this place. I will miss my neighborhood strolls. It is almost time to leave and I will leave a piece of my heart here. Enjoy!

Here are some other houses located in the State of Queretaro

And here is the local dog walker in the local park with his charges….

THE CHURCHES-LIFE OF THE CITY

I have been to so many churches since I arrived here. I love the architecture that these old buildings possess. The artwork, murals, painted ceilings, and biblical depictions are all inspiring (okay, a few are frightening) and help us have an insight to those things that drew people to the Catholic Church in earlier times. The thick walls of the church also provide a respite from the heat and also from life’s troubles. Perhaps what I enjoy the most though is just walking in, sitting down, and listening to the music and the chants echo off the walls of the sanctuary. It gives me a sense of peace and serenity that I can carry with me the entire day.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel- San Miguel Allende

With over 40 churches in San Miguel it is difficult to choose a favorite but Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is definitely the most well known and perhaps the most beloved of area residents. Towering over the city, the construction of the church began in the 1600’s under the auspices of the Franciscan Friars, after a smaller church from the 1500’s was demolished. The building is a surprising blend of different Neo-Gothic European influences and the resulting Spanish colonization that swept over these lands. This immense church was completed in stages at various points in history but it was when a local master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez, began construction of the current facade in 1880 that the Neo-Gothic architecture was put into place. Gutierrez had no drawings to guide him and he designed Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel after seeing pictures of the great cathedrals in Europe. To think that one man had such vision as to be able to change the entire feel of a city just amazes me.

The interior of the main building is vast. Yet, there are several different less imposing chapels including the Chapel of the Third Order with frescoes throughout which depict the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

The Chapel of the Third Order

Across from Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a city plaza with tall shade trees and park benches. It is here that you can truly feel the vibe of San Miguel and absorb the influence of the city and the locals who surround you. So take a load off…sit…listen to the church bells ring across the valley…and let yourself sink into a nation that still reveres its history and the people who still help to influence it today.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito

Another Church that I fell in love with was located in the town of Pueblito and is known as the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito. It is the church that I mentioned in my post about El Cerrito, The Pyramid of Pueblito, and it is the one that you are suppose to be able to hear the sermon from the pulpit all the way up the hill.

This church is much smaller then the one mentioned in San Miguel and it has it’s own special kind of charm that is quaint yet powerful which is evidenced by the faithful who attend daily mass.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito had its beginnings in 1632 when Friar Nicolas Zamora placed the image of Immaculate Conception near the temple where he built the first adobe structure to house her. Approval for the present day building was granted in 1720 and construction was completed in 1750. Religious festivals for Mary are mainly celebrated in mid-February when the town comes alive. However, when we were there last week, the life-size body of the Virgin, was displayed below the altar where the faithful believed that the next day she would be lifted up to heaven.

While small this church has so much to see and admire its the people whose dedication impressed me. When we were there a painter was hanging off a ladder busy painting the nave while services for the Virgin were ongoing during this week of celebration and the church was being cleaned top to bottom.

I think one of the things that made me aware of the dichotomy of past times and the modern demands of today was this sign I spied within the inner courtyard of the church. I will admit I chuckled out loud. I hope you enjoy it and a smile graces your face too.

The Least Known Pyramid In All Of Mexico

One of the few temples to survive within a major city is El Cerrito or the Pyramid of Pueblito. Built over 3,300 years ago it is a testament to the wisdom and knowledge of the ancient people of this area. I was lucky enough to visit it early this week.

El Cerrito has a long history as a religious site and complete with altars and various ceremonial buildings. It is believed that a female deity was worshipped here. One of the plazas on the site, known as the Sculptures Plaza, had two alters one on the west and one on the east sides. Human skulls were found here along with pottery from ancient sites located throughout Mexico. Believe it or not, this was once a very colorful place decorated with highly pigmented colors of red (roja), yellow (amarillo), and blue (azul).

El Cerrito itself was constructed as a step pyramid and was built to resemble a mountain. Unfortunately, it will never be known how tall the temple originally was because in 1887 the Fernandez family built a house at the top of a “hill” shaving at least 2 meters off of the temple. The house was named El Fortin and it remains abandoned at the top of the structure to this day. One cannot blame the Fernandez family for building on top of this important archeological site; for El Cerrito was buried under tons of dirt and covered by trees for centuries until 1941 when the main walls were discovered and work began to preserve the pyramid and try to understand it’s historical importance. And with the very old immense cactus trees that can be found all over the property it is understandable why the temple was hidden for so many years.

For me one of the most amazing things is how the temple is strategically located in order to take advantage of solar alignments and the acoustics of the valley. For instance, as the sun moves across the horizon a beam of sunlight reaching the basement creates a visible sundial on the wall while an analemma pattern is created on the floor which dictates the sun’s seasonal and everyday paths. In spring the equinox creates a time and place where the sun’s beam goes past the vertical sundial and reaches a boundary that lies between the blue and orange tiles on the wall announcing the arrival of the equinox. Further, sound travels directly from and to the temple from the small hamlet of El Pueblito and it is said that you can hear the Catholic priests recite mass.

The Mexican and local government have worked hard to preserve this ancient treasure and there are beautiful walkways and an amazing visitor center on the grounds. The entrance fee is minimal and there is inexpensive parking nearby. This is definitely a great day trip and I would recommend hiring one of the guides whose knowledge of El Cerrito is vast as well as entertaining. Here he is demonstrating to us the echoes of our clapping as they disperse into town.

Plaza De Armus in Queretaro

I love this plaza. Besides being surrounded by great restaurants, beautiful historical buildings, and cute little shops; it is the place where the locals come to sit a spell and to dance to the live music. And anytime you can dance on the street or at an open air plaza you know you are in for a memorable time. How I wished at that moment I had someone to dance with! I spent a good half-hour people watching and it was a great way to pass the time under the shade of the beautiful old trees which fill the plaza. I thought I would try something new and throw in a couple of videos.

From there I was lured by the bells ringing at the Parish of Santiago calling the faithful into its doors. I slipped into the church and spent some time reflecting before heading out into the town again.

Eventually I ended up at Plaza De Armus again and just soaked up the culture of the place. What a marvelous way to spend a Sunday!

My Taste Buds Exploded In Delight

Today I think I had one of my best meals ever. No, it wasn’t consumed in a fancy restaurant but instead in a department store dining hall. Why was it one of the best? Not necessarily because the food was the yummiest that I ever had but because there was an entire explosion of unique tastes in my mouth. There were more flavors combined together than I have ever experienced before and each part of the meal was a combustion of innovation .

First up was the drink that came with lunch. It was refreshing and amazing at the same time.

it was called a non-alcholic Acapulco Mocktail. Imagine strawberry (fresa), pineapple (Pina), coconut (coco) cream and peach (melacoton) garnished with candied pineapple. But what made it truly remarkable was the lime/chili/coconut salt around the rim. It totally changed the entire flavor of the juices from good to memorable!

The next thing up on this three course lunch was a mushroom soup topped with tortilla strips cut so thin you could almost see through them. But what made this so unique was that instead of the typical cream of mushroom soup one thinks of when considering this sort of fare; this soup had a deep rich base with the essence of chilis. Now as a person who has never been particularly fond of chili I have to say that this was quite a surprise that the spice could actually enhance a dish rather than detract from it. I know…it looks like a bowl of chili but tastes nothing like it.

After the soup came the biggest surprise of all… the “pièce de résistance” …. Chile Hojaaldrado. Imagine something like a chile relleno with a filling made of beef, garlic, onions and who knows what else. Then take this all this goodness and stuff it all into a puff pastry. Then surround the “relleno” with a cream sauce consisting of pomegranate, a slight bit of cinnamon, and other unidentifiable heavenly ingredients. Ahhhhh this combination of flavors is like nothing I have ever tasted in my entire life and I am getting to the age where I could drop over dead at anytime so I am so pleased that I lived to have the pleasure of this dish!

While this meal was a bit pricey at $329 MXP (about $16) for me it was worth every penny. As I said I ate this incredible lunch at a big “department” store called Liverpool in the Antea Mall; which is one of the biggest malls in Latin America. The food area is on the 5th floor and there is a huge variety to choose from. Pizza, sushi, burgers, traditional Mexican food, sandwiches, flan, gorgeous pastries, breads and excellent wines served bar style can all be consumed here. This may not be what you think of when you think Mexico but lunch today will probably be one of the most memorable that I will experience as I transverse the continent.

A Few Interesting Things at the Supermercado

I love the grocery stores here in Mexico. They range from the chains that we have in the USA down to small little mom and pop operations that don’t have a huge variety but their prices are often lower than in the big stores. I will say that the chain stores are clean and bright, so much so, that you could almost eat off the floor. That is what I will concentrate on today.

So here is something I discovered today. That must be some spicy bacon!

Another thing I love at the market are the fruits and veggies that you rarely see in the USA as well as the variety of juices that are available.

They also have a fresh vegetable roaster at the store. In the picture it is the cage behind the veggies.

The other day I had a taro root Frappe. It was DELICIOSO!!!! Smooth and creamy with a heavenly hand made whipped cream.Here are the juices I had this morning…melon cantalupo and a juice blend of apio, manzana, pina, cactus, naranja. I think you can tell from the containers what was in them!

One of the things that I have found very interesting in the various types of ceviche that is available here and at a walk up “bar” at the grocery store. Can’t beat that!

The bread departments are amazing and the varieties are endless. Check out this beet root bread! It’s it just beautiful. It’s times like these I wish I did not have to be gluten free!

Another thing I find quite quaint is how it appears that the Mexican people love their gelatin. I have never seen so many kinds prepared in such interesting ways. If you are a jello fan you must visit this part of Mexico.

And then you find some of the old relics from your childhood that you never thought you would find for sale again in your life! Tang comes in varieties that I never would have even dreamed of when I was a kid!

If you are looking for frozen foods in Queretaro the selection is limited. It consists mostly of ice cream, French fries, vegetables and frozen pizza. Some places carry frozen waffles and even fewer carry premade dinners like PF Chang in a bag.

There are also all sorts of speciality departments to discover in the store including san gluten, lactose free and best of all separate chocolate stores, wine shops within the store, sushi departments, jewelry, and like you can easily find in the USA…. take away meals.

I love going to the market here in Queretaro. Prices are a little lower than at home but not as much as I thought they would be. Yet, if you shop at places like the tienda de frutas you will find all sorts of fruits that are much lower priced than at the chain stores.

Here’s to shopping in Mexico. A great way to sample food and spend time practicing your Spanish! Oh and don’t forget to tip the bagger. They hire senior citizens with limited incomes who do not get paid by the store but survive off the generosity of the customers.