Tag: Mexico

Cuernavaca, Mexico

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One of my favorite adventures in Mexico was our visit to Cuernavaca. While I loved the one-hour drive through the mountains from Mexico City, parts of which reminded me of Colorado or Flagstaff; I did not enjoy my first experience driving in Mexico City. On the one hand, you have to be Mario Andretti and push the peddle to the metal to squeeze into spaces the size of a dime in front of the one hundred cars whose drivers have the same idea as you, but on the other hand, you have to have the patience of a saint to know when to be cautious as you fight twenty-three million city dwellers for your right to be on the road when no one follows what should be common sense traffic rules. Seriously, it’s like being in intense labor ready to deliver while driving…everything is just coming at you at once! But enough of that…let’s head to Cuernavaca.

Cuernavaca is the capital of the state of Morelos. What brought us to this place was the Palace of Cortez but what we found was so much more than we ever imagined. Built somewhere between 1523-1528 by the conqueror Hernan Cortez, the palace is the oldest conserved colonial era civil complex within the Americas. And while all that information is interesting what really brought Michael and I here were the Diego Rivera murals that decorate the upstairs floors. Little did we know there was a museum connected to the property which housed more than just the magnificent wall art.

With an entrance fee of about $5 USD it is certainly a bargain in this day of $10-20 fees in the USA. The first floor contains artifacts from the ancient civilizations that flourished in this land. It’s a nice collection for a museum of this size.

But what we had really come to see involved climbing quite a few steps to the balcony level which includes a magnificent view of the city and the countryside which surrounds it. That alone was almost worth the climb.

But the piece de resistance were the murals and when we turned the corner our breaths were literally taken away and not just from the stair climb! Commissioned by the US Ambassador to Mexico, Dwight Murrow, Rivera himself chose the subject. of the murals…the history of the invasion of Mexico by the Spanish…and he holds nothing back. They are truly spectacular!

If you are a Diego Rivera fan this is one place you need to check out!

From the Palace of Cortez we walked down the cobble streets, ducking into an alley and surprised ourselves by finding an incredible taco place. I wish I could remember the name but here is the view from the upstairs of the eatery.

From there we meandered the streets arriving at the Catedral de Cuernavaca also known as the Templo de la Asuncion de Maria. Work was started by the Franciscans using indigenous forced labor in 1526 and the religious complex also houses the Templo de la Tercera Orden de San Francisco (pink) and the Capilla del Carmen (yellow) . At the left side of the Catedral is the Museo de Arte Sacro which showcases close to 100 paintings, sculptures, and religious artifacts from the 16th to 20th centuries.

From here we wandered further… passing the theatre and library until we arrived at a food festival in the middle of the historic square. It was fantastic and we enjoyed seeing various regional foods from all over the country. Unfortunately, due to time constraints we missed the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Archaeological Zone of Xochicalco

Being drawn further in by all the spices and herbs wafting as we passed by booth after booth was the perfect way to end our day in Cuernavaca. I hope someday you will get to walk the streets of this enchanting city yourself to experience small city charm in a very big way.

Museo de Arte Moderno-Mexico City

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Mexico City has some of the best collection of museums in the world and the Museo de Arte Moderno certainly didn’t dissappoint. It was established in 1964 designed by architests Vazquez, Alcerreca and Salcido. With a focus on Mexican art ,permanent exhibition artists include Kahlo, Jair, Montenegro, Rivera, Loza; just to name a few and features works from 1930 until the present day. With basically four wings and an incredibly beautiful outdoor sculpture garden you will want to give yourself plenty of time to experience the flow between outdoor and in that the building encourages.

The day we got there they were installing a new sculpture and it was amazing to watch the process

As you enter the Museum you are met with gathering areas on both the first and second floors. They are beautifully designed and meant to allow to to view glimpses of all areas of the interior and grounds.

Here are a few of the more famous paintings on display and/or some of my favorites.

Olga Costa
Diego Rivera, Alfredo Zalce
Frida Kahle
Roberto Montenegro
Fermin Revueltas

The gardens and sulptures just can’t be missed and there is a small outdoor cafe at which you can sip your coffee and view the magnificence all around you.

Just a few more pics but I guarantee you that there is so much more to see. As a person who has never been much impressed with “modern art” I can say that I have changed my perception of the genre. It has elements that I can readily identify with as a woman born in the 1960’s and allows for a glance at past history that will hopefully influence the future.

Open Tuesday-Sunday from 10a.-6pm. The cost about 70 pecos with no fees for the disabled and young children. Afterwards, walk throughout the large city park to which many of the museums are connected.

A Few Of My Favorite Things

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As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

Queretaro
Queretaro
El Pueblito

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

Queretaro
San Miguel
Juriquilla

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

Amealco

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

Juriquilla
Juriquilla
Queretaro-Plaza de Armus
Bernal
Queretaro
On My Street

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

San Miguel
Town of El Pueblito
Town Of El Pueblito
Town of El Pueblito

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

Queretaro
Queretaro

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

Queretaro
San Miguel
SAn Miguel
Queretaro
Queretaro
San Miguel
Queretaro

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

Queretaro
San Miguel
Queretaro

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo- 1697
Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral
VILLAS DEL MESON

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

Roasted Corn Soup
Various Breakfast Breads
Fried Bananas With Passion Fruit Ice Cream
Corn dripping in lime, slathered in mayo and rolled in cheese
Chili Nagoya
Huitlacoche
Arroz Con Leche
Shrimp, Mango, Avocado, Coconut Fusion
Traditional Food

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Museo Regional de Querétaro
Museo Regional de Querétaro

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.

THE CHURCHES-LIFE OF THE CITY

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I have been to so many churches since I arrived here. I love the architecture that these old buildings possess. The artwork, murals, painted ceilings, and biblical depictions are all inspiring (okay, a few are frightening) and help us have an insight to those things that drew people to the Catholic Church in earlier times. The thick walls of the church also provide a respite from the heat and also from life’s troubles. Perhaps what I enjoy the most though is just walking in, sitting down, and listening to the music and the chants echo off the walls of the sanctuary. It gives me a sense of peace and serenity that I can carry with me the entire day.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel- San Miguel Allende

With over 40 churches in San Miguel it is difficult to choose a favorite but Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is definitely the most well known and perhaps the most beloved of area residents. Towering over the city, the construction of the church began in the 1600’s under the auspices of the Franciscan Friars, after a smaller church from the 1500’s was demolished. The building is a surprising blend of different Neo-Gothic European influences and the resulting Spanish colonization that swept over these lands. This immense church was completed in stages at various points in history but it was when a local master stone mason, Zeferino Gutierrez, began construction of the current facade in 1880 that the Neo-Gothic architecture was put into place. Gutierrez had no drawings to guide him and he designed Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel after seeing pictures of the great cathedrals in Europe. To think that one man had such vision as to be able to change the entire feel of a city just amazes me.

The interior of the main building is vast. Yet, there are several different less imposing chapels including the Chapel of the Third Order with frescoes throughout which depict the life of St. Francis of Assisi.

The Chapel of the Third Order

Across from Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel is a city plaza with tall shade trees and park benches. It is here that you can truly feel the vibe of San Miguel and absorb the influence of the city and the locals who surround you. So take a load off…sit…listen to the church bells ring across the valley…and let yourself sink into a nation that still reveres its history and the people who still help to influence it today.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito

Another Church that I fell in love with was located in the town of Pueblito and is known as the Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito. It is the church that I mentioned in my post about El Cerrito, The Pyramid of Pueblito, and it is the one that you are suppose to be able to hear the sermon from the pulpit all the way up the hill.

This church is much smaller then the one mentioned in San Miguel and it has it’s own special kind of charm that is quaint yet powerful which is evidenced by the faithful who attend daily mass.

Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pueblito had its beginnings in 1632 when Friar Nicolas Zamora placed the image of Immaculate Conception near the temple where he built the first adobe structure to house her. Approval for the present day building was granted in 1720 and construction was completed in 1750. Religious festivals for Mary are mainly celebrated in mid-February when the town comes alive. However, when we were there last week, the life-size body of the Virgin, was displayed below the altar where the faithful believed that the next day she would be lifted up to heaven.

While small this church has so much to see and admire its the people whose dedication impressed me. When we were there a painter was hanging off a ladder busy painting the nave while services for the Virgin were ongoing during this week of celebration and the church was being cleaned top to bottom.

I think one of the things that made me aware of the dichotomy of past times and the modern demands of today was this sign I spied within the inner courtyard of the church. I will admit I chuckled out loud. I hope you enjoy it and a smile graces your face too.

The Least Known Pyramid In All Of Mexico

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One of the few temples to survive within a major city is El Cerrito or the Pyramid of Pueblito. Built over 3,300 years ago it is a testament to the wisdom and knowledge of the ancient people of this area. I was lucky enough to visit it early this week.

El Cerrito has a long history as a religious site and complete with altars and various ceremonial buildings. It is believed that a female deity was worshipped here. One of the plazas on the site, known as the Sculptures Plaza, had two alters one on the west and one on the east sides. Human skulls were found here along with pottery from ancient sites located throughout Mexico. Believe it or not, this was once a very colorful place decorated with highly pigmented colors of red (roja), yellow (amarillo), and blue (azul).

El Cerrito itself was constructed as a step pyramid and was built to resemble a mountain. Unfortunately, it will never be known how tall the temple originally was because in 1887 the Fernandez family built a house at the top of a “hill” shaving at least 2 meters off of the temple. The house was named El Fortin and it remains abandoned at the top of the structure to this day. One cannot blame the Fernandez family for building on top of this important archeological site; for El Cerrito was buried under tons of dirt and covered by trees for centuries until 1941 when the main walls were discovered and work began to preserve the pyramid and try to understand it’s historical importance. And with the very old immense cactus trees that can be found all over the property it is understandable why the temple was hidden for so many years.

For me one of the most amazing things is how the temple is strategically located in order to take advantage of solar alignments and the acoustics of the valley. For instance, as the sun moves across the horizon a beam of sunlight reaching the basement creates a visible sundial on the wall while an analemma pattern is created on the floor which dictates the sun’s seasonal and everyday paths. In spring the equinox creates a time and place where the sun’s beam goes past the vertical sundial and reaches a boundary that lies between the blue and orange tiles on the wall announcing the arrival of the equinox. Further, sound travels directly from and to the temple from the small hamlet of El Pueblito and it is said that you can hear the Catholic priests recite mass.

The Mexican and local government have worked hard to preserve this ancient treasure and there are beautiful walkways and an amazing visitor center on the grounds. The entrance fee is minimal and there is inexpensive parking nearby. This is definitely a great day trip and I would recommend hiring one of the guides whose knowledge of El Cerrito is vast as well as entertaining. Here he is demonstrating to us the echoes of our clapping as they disperse into town.

The Murals Are Amazing…Just Don’t Look Up!

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One of the things I have come to appreciate are all the colorful murals that you can find along the streets of Mexico no matter what city you are in. They serve to brighten up a spot as well as act as advertising billboards. The colors that are used are vibrant enough to catch the eye and burn into your brain to the point you can always find the mural again. What’s cool is that the subject matter can be just about anything and what’s more is the murals can be small as an orange crate or as large as a city block. Here are a few examples of the artwork that I have seen during my two months here.

Yet, as beautiful as they are there is one problem with murals which is tied into a significant defect in city planning and a lack of consistent building codes. I will gladly admit this is one of the few things I abhor about Mexico and if I can give you one piece of advice about this country it would be this… never look up …. always keep your eyes on the ground…and stand still if you are gazing at anything higher than your head. Then, hopefully, you should be safe and survive your journey intact.

So here it is the thing I abhor: you have no idea how many times I have been walking along looking up at the steeples and the murals and anything else that has caught my when…WHAMMMM…the side walk ends or the road height changes significantly and down I go! I am surprised I have not ended up in the hospital with a broken ankle. To give you an idea how significant the problem is here are just a few examples of this high/low problem as found on my street alone. And mind you, the driveways leading out of each house, is a different height than that their neighbors. Nothing is uniform… but it should be.

And look at this hole in the sidewalk on my way to the supermercado. It looks exactly like a replica of a category five hurricane that we are shown on the television that comes complete with warnings of imminent death should you not move to higher ground.

So while we in the USA bitch and moan about all the rules and just want government off our backs; I can tell you from experience that there is a good reason for some of regulations. And if, in the future, I don’t blog, I would fancy to say that I was one of those virgin maidens that fell into one of the gigantic holes… never to be heard from again…at least that is how the story goes in my scariest of nightmares.

Plaza De Armus in Queretaro

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I love this plaza. Besides being surrounded by great restaurants, beautiful historical buildings, and cute little shops; it is the place where the locals come to sit a spell and to dance to the live music. And anytime you can dance on the street or at an open air plaza you know you are in for a memorable time. How I wished at that moment I had someone to dance with! I spent a good half-hour people watching and it was a great way to pass the time under the shade of the beautiful old trees which fill the plaza. I thought I would try something new and throw in a couple of videos.

From there I was lured by the bells ringing at the Parish of Santiago calling the faithful into its doors. I slipped into the church and spent some time reflecting before heading out into the town again.

Eventually I ended up at Plaza De Armus again and just soaked up the culture of the place. What a marvelous way to spend a Sunday!

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

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One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

San Miguel Allende – The Art Scene

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I had such a wonderful day with Denise in San Miguel that I have decided to create two posts. This one is about the Art / Antique Scene in this lovely town. Tomorrow I will post pictures throughout the city…watch out there are some wild ones! Now onto the arts….

San Miguel became a haven for artists after the end of WWII. Many US soldiers who had a GI Bill came to the area to study and participate in the arts and in doing so they helped to create an artist haven. Much of this growth was attributed to an American named Stirling Dickinson whose connections allowed returning soldiers to attend Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. Over 6,000 students had applied for admission by January 1948 and the San Miguel slowly made its way from near ghost town to the vibrant place that it is today. In 2008 the city was named as a UNESCO Heritage site and five times Condé Nast Traveler has deemed it “the Best Small City in the World.”

The first place Denise took me to was a consignment store named La Fina that I could have easily roamed through for an entire week. Because San Miguel is such a city of affluent Mexicans and foreigners this shop held treasures beyond belief. I loved the twelve foot high bookcases which towered like skyscrapers along with furniture from all over the world. Take a look….this is my kind of place.

From La Fina we ventured forth to La Aurora which is a former factory repurposed into an art gallery/wine bar/ food haven. The building is magnificent as are the gardens and there is something new to view around every corner. If you love all things artsy this is your place and you might even be able to meet some of the artists as they work in their studios.

From La Aurora we went deeper into town and visited some small galleries as we walked the streets. I love the beaded work (Huichol art) and the intricacy of these pieces is just amazing. I know I would never have the kind of patience it would take to set each bead into place. Same goes with the Mexican Tree of Life Sculptures which are made of clay usually featuring indigenous people and religious themes.

iThere you go a short tour of some of the best places to visit in San Miguel Allende for art/antiques and just plain wonderful finds. The day was memorable and the items I saw just spectacular. I want to go back again today…want to join me?!

Another Corn Post…Who Would Have Thought!

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Tonight I went out to dinner with several local women. It was a fantastic evening and we went to the Natica Plaza which is located on a small lake in Juriquilla. The scenery is beautiful and reminded me of Lake Como but 1000 times smaller.

The restaurant was right on the water and it was a beautiful cool evening. Everything about this night was perfecto including the company. The drinks were pretty wonderful too.

Since I have been here in Mexico I have heard (and seen in the supermarcado) something about a corn that develops a kind of moldy fungus on it. Since I love ice wine which is developed from grapes that are affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot); I thought that I might want to try this delicacy too.

Well, tonight at Los Patos I was delighted to find that one of their specialities was a quesadilla combination featuring three different kinds: mushrooms and cheese, squash flower and huitlacoche (smut corn) and queso. You have to admit with a name like smut corn… that you can’t possibly go wrong! It is a very particular type of corn that grows this fungus and there I was starring at a blessed menu with this taste treat calling my name.

Just in case you want to see what huitlacoche looks like, this is a picture of it before it is cooked:

Now that I see it; I am not sure I would have eaten the dish had a viewed this photo beforehand. But if the ancient Aztecs can consume then I figured that it must be something special. And let me tell you it was muy especial. The taste was just amazing. It was earthy and delicate with a hint of an umami type of essence floating across it. Usually I do not use the word earthy because often it sends the wrong kind of impression like dried cow patties roasting in a field. But this was fantabulous!!!!! In addition the squash flower enchilada was excellent too. It was delicate and robust at the same time…how is that even possible? Top these delicacies with fresh guacamole and you have a dish that you will always remember.

I feel fortunate to be able to be in Mexico and to be eating some amazing food. I have to confess that last night I went out to dinner too. This time I walked to the San Telmo restaurant and had another taste treat but I will admit, although excellent, it was typical of something you would find in a good restaurant in the USA. Check this out. Puntas De Res. Sirloin tips with in a creamy mushroom sauce served over freshly made mashed potatoes with warm fresh bread. At for $199 pesos it was amazing. A little less than $10!

So while in Mexico, I urge you to try local specialties that are outside of a typical bean burrito. There are plenty of new taste sensations to indulge in and with decent prices for really outstanding meal it pays to explore and challenge your taste buds just a little bit. You’ll be glad you did!