A Few Of My Favorite Things

As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.

COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.

THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.

THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.

THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.

THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.

THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.

THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.

THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.

THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.

RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.

PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.

DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.

THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.

Templo de Santo Domingo
Santa Iglesia Cathedral

THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.

TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,

HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.

Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.

Another Corn Post…Who Would Have Thought!

Tonight I went out to dinner with several local women. It was a fantastic evening and we went to the Natica Plaza which is located on a small lake in Juriquilla. The scenery is beautiful and reminded me of Lake Como but 1000 times smaller.

The restaurant was right on the water and it was a beautiful cool evening. Everything about this night was perfecto including the company. The drinks were pretty wonderful too.

Since I have been here in Mexico I have heard (and seen in the supermarcado) something about a corn that develops a kind of moldy fungus on it. Since I love ice wine which is developed from grapes that are affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot); I thought that I might want to try this delicacy too.

Well, tonight at Los Patos I was delighted to find that one of their specialities was a quesadilla combination featuring three different kinds: mushrooms and cheese, squash flower and huitlacoche (smut corn) and queso. You have to admit with a name like smut corn… that you can’t possibly go wrong! It is a very particular type of corn that grows this fungus and there I was starring at a blessed menu with this taste treat calling my name.

Just in case you want to see what huitlacoche looks like, this is a picture of it before it is cooked:

Now that I see it; I am not sure I would have eaten the dish had a viewed this photo beforehand. But if the ancient Aztecs can consume then I figured that it must be something special. And let me tell you it was muy especial. The taste was just amazing. It was earthy and delicate with a hint of an umami type of essence floating across it. Usually I do not use the word earthy because often it sends the wrong kind of impression like dried cow patties roasting in a field. But this was fantabulous!!!!! In addition the squash flower enchilada was excellent too. It was delicate and robust at the same time…how is that even possible? Top these delicacies with fresh guacamole and you have a dish that you will always remember.

I feel fortunate to be able to be in Mexico and to be eating some amazing food. I have to confess that last night I went out to dinner too. This time I walked to the San Telmo restaurant and had another taste treat but I will admit, although excellent, it was typical of something you would find in a good restaurant in the USA. Check this out. Puntas De Res. Sirloin tips with in a creamy mushroom sauce served over freshly made mashed potatoes with warm fresh bread. At for $199 pesos it was amazing. A little less than $10!

So while in Mexico, I urge you to try local specialties that are outside of a typical bean burrito. There are plenty of new taste sensations to indulge in and with decent prices for really outstanding meal it pays to explore and challenge your taste buds just a little bit. You’ll be glad you did!

Great Food From Around The World

I have to say that I have had some very good food in my travels. Most were fairly inexpensive food choices but a few came at quite a cost. I have found that I usually prefer the cheap eats except when it comes to anything YAK….YUCK!

The best meal that comes to mind was had in a small village in Thailand. We had been treking when I lost the lubricating fluid in my knees. Every step that I took ground bone on bone and it was excruciating. I walked one step at a time with tears rolling down my face. It got so bad that the guide, Boone, had his other guide take everyone else up ahead to the small village we would be staying in that night. Meanwhile, Boone, carried my pack and stayed with me as I hobbled along. Finally, when we arrived there was an amazing dinner awaiting. It was fresh vegetables and tofu. Yep, that is it. My best meal ever. I don’t know if it was because I was so relieved to get to the huts that I was intensely grateful for everything or if I was just starving but never had a plate looked so inviting.

While we were in Thailand this past April I visited another restaurant and also took a cooking class from them. The name of the place is the Blue Elephant and the restaurant is located in the former governors mansion. We had a multi-course dinner that was fit for kings. It consisted of Avocado Black Diamond Scallops, Red Curry, Tiger Prawns and Eggplant Salad and some other memorable taste marvels. And the decor was just beautiful.

The best Enchiladas I have ever eaten was in The Netherlands. The place was on the coast of the country in the town of Scheveningen. I have long ago forgotten the name of the place but I can still remember their cream cheese enchiladas like it was yesterday. It was a gastronomic highlight to my trip. However, today I was taken to a place that the people I am housesitting love and I can say without a doubt best Mexican food I have ever eaten. The roadside restaurant is called Tacos Vias and it’s on the road to Bernal. You choose whether you want blue (Azul) tacos or blanco (white) masa. The lady scoops a bit of dough, pats it into shape and then throws it on the grill. You then take the plate have them put the topping on. I had beans and cheese. Then added meat, potatoes, and carrots cooked in a sauce and then laid on a nice bit of mango and cucumber salsa. Here’s a look:

A big surprise to me in my food experiences was when I ate at the Pingvinen in Bergen, Norway. Reindeer stew with salted lamb, sausage and root veggies was a new taste that my palate was not sure about while their cured reindeer marinated in lingonberries and gin was a real treat. One thing I can say was that I believed the food that was served was traditional and could be found in the coldest and smallest of villages throughout the country.

Bergen had a surprising number of fantastic places to eat including Kogi which I can honestly say had the best Korean food I have ever eaten including what I ate in Korea. The bulgogi was stupendous as was the pa-jeon. The owner was extremely friendly and gave me the recipe for her secret sauce and the dishes I sampled were divine. There was also a Burmese restaurant that we stumbled upon called Mandalay Sushi and Burmese. (Pics- Brown Cheese Dessert, Cured Reindeer, Lapskaus Stew; along with Pajeon from Kogi in bottom left corner, the menu from Pingvinen.

Places I have eaten have given me inspiration for my own cooking but nothing as much as street food in various countries. I love the corn on the cob in 12 different flavors that you find in China. This man peddling his food in the water town of  Zhouzhuang pulled the best sweet potato I have ever had off of his cart and handed it to me all hot and steamy. I also contributed to that pile of eggs sitting outside the two seater hole-in-the-wall that we ate at. 

The best desserts I ever ate were in Prague and for the life of me I cannot tell you the name of of the place but it was in the historic downtown about two blocks from the Clocktower. Maybe if you are lucky you can read the napkin which I cannot. The last picture is the fabulous bread pudding served at St. Orres on the California coast up by Gualala. This Russian inspired restaurant is one of the most beautiful on the coast and the food is always great. Look at these delights and just drool. 

Some of the drinks that stand out in mind include a particular blueberry cream smash found at the Bergens Tidende but for great drinks AND spectacular scenery I still believe that you can’t beat Nepenthe Restaurant off Highway One at Big Sir, California. Taking in the view with a lovely drink in your hand makes you believe that all is well with the world.

Oh and I guess this would not be complete with chocolate. Ethel M in Las Vegas is hands down my favorite chocolatier but a close second has got to Lakrids by Bulow Salty Caramel Chocolate Coated Licorice. I never particularly liked licorice until I tasted these dolls! Their Passion Fruit White Chocolate Coated Licorice is even better! (You can order Lakrids on Amazon!)

So there you have it. Some of my most memorable places I have eaten. I hope while I am here in Mexico to be able to add to this list. My plan is to take a cooking class while I am here in order to learn a bit more about what makes this country so spicy and delicioso.