Living In Very Rural Costa Rica

If you have ever dreamed about getting away from in all…come to Costa Rica. Yes, there are resorts and San Jose, but if you really want to get lost, come to rural Guanacaste where the Brahma cows out number humans, the monkey are louder than them, and the nearest town is about twenty-five minutes away by car and 2 days if you are walking.

Yesterday, I went to the very small school down the road to see if anyone there could help me with my Spanish by talking to me a couple of hours a week and I would pay them. No one knows English, which while expected, was disappointing because even with my translator no one understood what I was really wanting. No one had to speak English just be willing to to talk to me in Spanish. If nothing else I proved to be a sizable distraction for the kids who thought my attempts at communicating in Spanish were hilarious!

It is very impoverished here but I am not sure that anyone in the valley is truly aware of it. Everyone waves and smiles, and during my walk today several people waved and answered me back after I yelled out “buenos tardes!” Tonight I plan to go down to the bingo hall and play a game or two as a benefit for a sick child in the village.

The day before they left my hosts took me into Nicoya which is the nearest “big” town. It has A McDonalds, KFC and Burger King. Sigh. There are three supermarkets and a lovely town plaza full of Iguanas of all colors. I love the orange ones. Food at the supermarkets is expensive and I don’t know how the locals afford to shop. For instance a small sized Wall-Mart shredded cheese is $4 here while at home about $2. I was shocked and my heart went out to all the less-fortunate folks for whom shopping must be a cruel joke.

On Wednesday I took I & E to the airport in San Jose so they could go home to France to visit their first grand baby. I drove their truck…a six speed stick shirt. I was terrified. Why? Because no one seems to follow traffic laws, I had not driven a stick in 25 years, and I was driving in a big city.

Driving here is arduous. It is about a five-six hour trek from here one way to the airport. I don’t think it is because of the roads per se even though the first thirty minutes is spent dodging potholes the size of small continents along rutted dirt roads. No, I think it takes so long because the trucks NEVER pull over even though there are fifty cars behind them and they are going 30 mph. Add to that road work and tree trimming along the highway and the time it takes to get from here to there increases dramatically. But the scenery if truly spectacular and it was nice passing the ocean and stopping off at the butterfly farm. Unfortunately, the farm had experienced a major crisis two days before I came when birds got into the butterfly pen. Let’s just say I was told that there were numerous casualties inflicted by the invaders.

All in all my stay thus far has been a 180 degree change from my time in Mexico. It is HOT here and so very HUMID. There is no air conditioner which means I am too hot to cook and as a result I have lost 5 pounds. I am also sleeping under mosquito netting thank goodness. Yet despite all of this I developed a massive headache (which I never usually have) and my stomach feels like I have been sailing. I am hoping that I am not coming down with anything and that the tick that bit me is not some disease carrying vampire. Yes, I know, I am sounding like a whiny American and as sick as I am feeling today (now Saturday) I have earned the title. But I know that soon I will be feeling better which will improve the attitude and the whining will cease.

Rural Costa Rica-Breathtaking

So, I have been in Costa Rica for a little over 24 hours and I am experiencing a bit of culture shock. For me, the shock is not from living in a deeply rural part of the country near Nicoya but from the heat/humidity found here. I am just not used to it and it feels weird that my body constantly feels like it has been rolled in a vat of ice cream and then laid out to dry….only you never do… which means that boob rash will definitely be making an appearance soon. I feel sticky and wet and for a girl who has really never sweated in her life I have to wonder if there is such a thing as a deodorant that truly works!

The people whose home I am sitting are marvelous. They are French and moved here two years ago. They are kind and generous, make a mean rum drink, and are giving me advice about everything under the sun such as which fruits I can eat off the trees and which snakes could possibly kill me (luckily there are not THAT many) They are doing everything in their power to make me feel comfortable and for me to enjoy my experience here.

I can eat these!!! They are yummy!

The wildlife is amazing on this land. There are iguana’s of every color and size. They are quite loud when they fall out of the trees and land on the ground with a huge thud. One is also the pet who comes and begs for food. Macaws fly through the trees as do yellow-headed green parrots. Butterflies of all types float through the clouds and land on the banana trees. There are peccaries roaming the property, armadillos, and I can hear the howler monkeys on the mountain behind the house.

While there are few people there are plenty of trees. The property has Guanacastes, Bayan type trees, mangos. papaya, and a sweet lemon. Pineapple are just starting to reach their second year of growth. My hosts have really worked hard on their property and it shows.

I’ll leave you with the spectacular views that can be seen within the 14,000 hectares that I will be living amongst for the next six weeks. I hope you are as awed by them as I am.