Lima Peru…One Of The Most Beautiful Cities In The World

When we decided to visit Lima Pera it came quite a shock to us that it was one of the premier gastronomy delights in the world. After residing here for five days we have also discovered that it is one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in the world blessed with incredible weather and amazing views.

Lima is built high on a cliff and below it runs something akin to the Pacific Coast Highway of California. The city is putting a lot of time and money into this area and while driving you will see all sorts of activities available to locals and tourists alike. From sand volleyball courts, to an Olympic-sized pool, skateboard park, and basketball courts; Lima is working hard to re-make itself into a city for all ages and all interests. Meanwhile, up on the cliffs there are miles of walking trails looking down on the Pacific Ocean, pocket parks, and plenty of new high-rise apartments. Mom and Pop restaurants are everywhere as are local shops. You won’t find the big box stores in these neighborhoods. We are in staying in artsy-artsy neighborhood of Barranco and walk over to Barrio Miraflores everyday utilizing the giant overpass that stretches from one part of one city to the other.

Walking through Barranco the other day we found several gems. One was the Second Home Peru Guesthouse. Once owned by Peruvian sculptor, Victor Delfin, the hotel features his artwork throughout the grounds and has a quaint public bar with outdoor seating overlooking the ocean. It really is a place to get away and relax for an hour or two as you explore the barrio.

We also found three incredible stores which feature artisans from Peru. It was difficult to take my hands off the smooth beauty of the fine furniture which one can preview at Arteanos Don Bosco. While at tienda Dedalo the ceramics and textiles were a feast for the eyes. Street artist Jade Rivera’s gallery was an explosion of colors and abstract meanings which make those viewing his work stop and contemplate the known and consider what may previously been the unknown. What surprised me the most was that I saw on of his giant murals in Santiago and photographed it only to find postcard copies in the gallery. Walk a little further down the block and you will come to the Mural Bridge….it is truly stunning.

The next day we ubered to the Plaza Mayor which sits in the center of the historic district. Here you can find the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, the Palace. and many more smaller churches and museums within a couple of blocks.

The Cathedral was founded in 1535 but has undergone many renovations since due to earthquakes which damaged the building many times over the years. Inside, there are creepy crypts, thirteen chapels and rooms which house sacred religious art.

Sepulcher Room of Don Francisco Pizarro

After leaving the Cathedral we heard some marching band music and headed over to the Palace where it so happened that the changing go the guard was taking place! What a delightful stumble as I have always tried to attend these and I had no clue that they did such a thing in Lima.

We then headed to lunch and if I can give a piece of advice…don’t eat around the Plaza Mayor. The food is expensive and not particularly good but I have to confess I like the free Pisco sours they had out to get you into a restaurant!

We then stumbled upon the MUCEN also known as the Banco Central De Reserva Del Peru. Housed in an old bank building this museum offers up contemporary art, traditional artwork of the Pre-Columbian peoples of the area and paintings from the 1600-1800’s. It is a great little museum and just perusing the building is worth it. There is no entrance fee.

From there we happened up the Centro Cultural Inca Garcilaso another small museum.

I think it is important to let you know that the smaller ancient churches downtown have limited hours usually from 9-12 and from 5-8 pm. We were disappointed to miss some of these gems and think it is worth the time spent to visit them if you can.

At this point I am just going to dump some photos that I hope you will enjoy. Lima really is an incredible city and it’s a place I will probably return to again and again. Moderate weather, beautiful scenery, a fascinating history, easy walking neighborhoods, and a feeling of safety makes this an ideal place to spend time and explore until your heart is content.

The Most Marvelous Day-Cusco, Peru

The morning started with a massive headache. But what do you expect when you are at 11,100 feet above sea level and altitude sickness is knocking on your door? A few Tylenol later and Michael and I were heading through an ancient wooden door and stepping out into the unknown.

Cusco, Peru is one of the most scenic and authentic towns I have been to in South America. In only five minutes time while walking through the squares it was easy to determine that I absolutely love it here! History seeps from its pores and every corner turned is a new adventure. Yes, it is true that Cusco is a tourist town where all the foreigners hang out before heading to Machu Picchu but despite it all it’s historic center is amazing with small cafes, ancient churches, and coffee houses dotting the area. I only wished I had been around to see its untouched and unspoiled beauty fifty years ago.

We are staying at an Air b&b called Secret Garden and except for being a bit chilly at night it is everything you could ask for. Set in an historic building it looks like a “typical” hacienda found in Mexico. We were told that for altitude sickness we should drink some coca leave tea which we conveniently located in a kitchen canister. The tea is slightly bitter and I cannot tell you if it helps or not but hey….sometimes you just have to follow the traditions of the area.

Upon exiting a hoary wooden door we were immediately thrust into the one of the city squares. People, busses and cars hugged the narrow streets as we walked to a small coffee house. I had an amazing gluten free tart made of tumbo fruit which is native to the area. Right outside of the door we saw these ladies and their baby alpacas.

Across the street we paid $20 Sol to enter a museum known as the Qorikancha Archeological Site and Museum; which was once the main temple of the vast Inca Empire built around 1200 AD. The Inca Empire was largest territory in the New World before European conquests began. Qorikancha or the House of the Sun was constructed and according to the Spanish was filled with golden treasures. Eventually, Colonial buildings were added to the Inca land while most of the original buildings were destroyed. The land was given to the Dominican order and the Church and Covent of Santo Domingo. The property has undergone many transformations due to many large earthquakes that have occurred over the past four-hundred years.

Paintings line the walls of the museum many of which were created by the Cusco School of Colonial Art which employed native traditions of art developed by mostly Indian or mixed race artisans.

The gardens are spectacular featuring many types of fuschia, trumpet trees, and various native flowers.

It will cost another $5 Sol (about $1.65 USD) to climb the bell tower but it is something you must do. The passageways are reminiscent of European castles with arrowslits. But the biggest reward is the view that encompasses the entire valley with its many churches and a magnificent convent sitting hillside.

Finally, there is the Colonial Church of Santo Domingo. Built in the 17tht century, its a fusion of Inca masonry and Baroque architecture. It houses various paintings and treasures from the Dominicans.

From here we walked the city just enjoying whatever it was we stumbled upon including the Church of the Society of Jesus, Church of La Merced and the Loreto Church. And behind the Church of the Society we encountered a whole different type of animal.

One thing that we didn’t know before arriving in South America is that Peru is one of the world’s best loved and appreciated gastronomy regions in the world. And it hasn’t disappointed. We went to an amazing restaurant called Mare. The waiter did several presentations of the different ingredients that were used in our meal. We dined on Guinea Pig (a very usual flavor but wonderful) and for desert we had almost a custard of Chimoya and passion fruit with chili oxicala chips capped off by homemade coffee ice cream. It was by far the most interesting and yummy desert that I have ever eaten.

I love the vibrant colors and music of the city. Women in traditional Peruvian dress can still be found everywhere and fireworks shoot off at all times of the day and night in celebration of the saints that are beloved by the town.

Now I leave you with a multitude of pictures that I took throughout the day. Best of all, I can hardly wait for tomorrow so that I can discover all that awaits around each and every corner.

Cuernavaca, Mexico

One of my favorite adventures in Mexico was our visit to Cuernavaca. While I loved the one-hour drive through the mountains from Mexico City, parts of which reminded me of Colorado or Flagstaff; I did not enjoy my first experience driving in Mexico City. On the one hand, you have to be Mario Andretti and push the peddle to the metal to squeeze into spaces the size of a dime in front of the one hundred cars whose drivers have the same idea as you, but on the other hand, you have to have the patience of a saint to know when to be cautious as you fight twenty-three million city dwellers for your right to be on the road when no one follows what should be common sense traffic rules. Seriously, it’s like being in intense labor ready to deliver while driving…everything is just coming at you at once! But enough of that…let’s head to Cuernavaca.

Cuernavaca is the capital of the state of Morelos. What brought us to this place was the Palace of Cortez but what we found was so much more than we ever imagined. Built somewhere between 1523-1528 by the conqueror Hernan Cortez, the palace is the oldest conserved colonial era civil complex within the Americas. And while all that information is interesting what really brought Michael and I here were the Diego Rivera murals that decorate the upstairs floors. Little did we know there was a museum connected to the property which housed more than just the magnificent wall art.

With an entrance fee of about $5 USD it is certainly a bargain in this day of $10-20 fees in the USA. The first floor contains artifacts from the ancient civilizations that flourished in this land. It’s a nice collection for a museum of this size.

But what we had really come to see involved climbing quite a few steps to the balcony level which includes a magnificent view of the city and the countryside which surrounds it. That alone was almost worth the climb.

But the piece de resistance were the murals and when we turned the corner our breaths were literally taken away and not just from the stair climb! Commissioned by the US Ambassador to Mexico, Dwight Murrow, Rivera himself chose the subject. of the murals…the history of the invasion of Mexico by the Spanish…and he holds nothing back. They are truly spectacular!

If you are a Diego Rivera fan this is one place you need to check out!

From the Palace of Cortez we walked down the cobble streets, ducking into an alley and surprised ourselves by finding an incredible taco place. I wish I could remember the name but here is the view from the upstairs of the eatery.

From there we meandered the streets arriving at the Catedral de Cuernavaca also known as the Templo de la Asuncion de Maria. Work was started by the Franciscans using indigenous forced labor in 1526 and the religious complex also houses the Templo de la Tercera Orden de San Francisco (pink) and the Capilla del Carmen (yellow) . At the left side of the Catedral is the Museo de Arte Sacro which showcases close to 100 paintings, sculptures, and religious artifacts from the 16th to 20th centuries.

From here we wandered further… passing the theatre and library until we arrived at a food festival in the middle of the historic square. It was fantastic and we enjoyed seeing various regional foods from all over the country. Unfortunately, due to time constraints we missed the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Archaeological Zone of Xochicalco

Being drawn further in by all the spices and herbs wafting as we passed by booth after booth was the perfect way to end our day in Cuernavaca. I hope someday you will get to walk the streets of this enchanting city yourself to experience small city charm in a very big way.

Museo de Arte Moderno-Mexico City

Mexico City has some of the best collection of museums in the world and the Museo de Arte Moderno certainly didn’t dissappoint. It was established in 1964 designed by architests Vazquez, Alcerreca and Salcido. With a focus on Mexican art ,permanent exhibition artists include Kahlo, Jair, Montenegro, Rivera, Loza; just to name a few and features works from 1930 until the present day. With basically four wings and an incredibly beautiful outdoor sculpture garden you will want to give yourself plenty of time to experience the flow between outdoor and in that the building encourages.

The day we got there they were installing a new sculpture and it was amazing to watch the process

As you enter the Museum you are met with gathering areas on both the first and second floors. They are beautifully designed and meant to allow to to view glimpses of all areas of the interior and grounds.

Here are a few of the more famous paintings on display and/or some of my favorites.

The gardens and sulptures just can’t be missed and there is a small outdoor cafe at which you can sip your coffee and view the magnificence all around you.

Just a few more pics but I guarantee you that there is so much more to see. As a person who has never been much impressed with “modern art” I can say that I have changed my perception of the genre. It has elements that I can readily identify with as a woman born in the 1960’s and allows for a glance at past history that will hopefully influence the future.

Open Tuesday-Sunday from 10a.-6pm. The cost about 70 pecos with no fees for the disabled and young children. Afterwards, walk throughout the large city park to which many of the museums are connected.

The Least Known Pyramid In All Of Mexico

One of the few temples to survive within a major city is El Cerrito or the Pyramid of Pueblito. Built over 3,300 years ago it is a testament to the wisdom and knowledge of the ancient people of this area. I was lucky enough to visit it early this week.

El Cerrito has a long history as a religious site and complete with altars and various ceremonial buildings. It is believed that a female deity was worshipped here. One of the plazas on the site, known as the Sculptures Plaza, had two alters one on the west and one on the east sides. Human skulls were found here along with pottery from ancient sites located throughout Mexico. Believe it or not, this was once a very colorful place decorated with highly pigmented colors of red (roja), yellow (amarillo), and blue (azul).

El Cerrito itself was constructed as a step pyramid and was built to resemble a mountain. Unfortunately, it will never be known how tall the temple originally was because in 1887 the Fernandez family built a house at the top of a “hill” shaving at least 2 meters off of the temple. The house was named El Fortin and it remains abandoned at the top of the structure to this day. One cannot blame the Fernandez family for building on top of this important archeological site; for El Cerrito was buried under tons of dirt and covered by trees for centuries until 1941 when the main walls were discovered and work began to preserve the pyramid and try to understand it’s historical importance. And with the very old immense cactus trees that can be found all over the property it is understandable why the temple was hidden for so many years.

For me one of the most amazing things is how the temple is strategically located in order to take advantage of solar alignments and the acoustics of the valley. For instance, as the sun moves across the horizon a beam of sunlight reaching the basement creates a visible sundial on the wall while an analemma pattern is created on the floor which dictates the sun’s seasonal and everyday paths. In spring the equinox creates a time and place where the sun’s beam goes past the vertical sundial and reaches a boundary that lies between the blue and orange tiles on the wall announcing the arrival of the equinox. Further, sound travels directly from and to the temple from the small hamlet of El Pueblito and it is said that you can hear the Catholic priests recite mass.

The Mexican and local government have worked hard to preserve this ancient treasure and there are beautiful walkways and an amazing visitor center on the grounds. The entrance fee is minimal and there is inexpensive parking nearby. This is definitely a great day trip and I would recommend hiring one of the guides whose knowledge of El Cerrito is vast as well as entertaining. Here he is demonstrating to us the echoes of our clapping as they disperse into town.

San Miguel Allende Mexico- The Photos

One of the things I love about Sam Miguel is the cobblestone streets and the brightly painted homes.They put a smile on your face and make your day feel like it will be nothing less than spicy and sunny. It is just fun to drive and look around town and see the various neighborhoods..

One of the places we ducked into was the Cultural Center and I have plans to re-visit it so I can get a full tour of all that lays within its stone walls. But for now just some lovely photos to give you an idea of the place.

I love visiting the churches and seeing their rounded domes or tall spires no matter where I go. But here in San Miguel there is something about that type of architecture that just reaches in to connect with your very soul.

For lunch, Denise took me to this tiny hole-in-the-wall restaurant named Tostevere that served excellent food. The tostadas tasted different than any I have had before….smooth. How a tostada can be smooth with a hint of salt I have no idea…but it was. And the bananas foster dessert with homemade fresh fruit ice cream (maybe guava) topped with lime was amazing. But perhaps the most interesting thing that I had was the Smokey Mezcal which is brewed from the agave plant. The drink was concocted from several juices including cucumber, topped with fresh whipped cream, lime salted rim and then lit on fire with a pice of smokey sage. Sorry, Grandma…I had two!

Walking through the town is an experience that you won’t forget. Undoubtedly, you will see Mojigangas, the street puppets, who stroll the town. A few pesos is all it takes to have your picture taken with them. Quaint shops, wonderful food, warm people, lovely outdoor spaces and music that makes you want to get up and dance…these are just a few things you will take away with you when you leave this amazing enclave. And speaking of leaving… I now leave you with some of my favorite pictures of the day including more art, the ring I bought from a jeweler in the park and my $15 ride home on the bus. Wish an airplane was as comfortable as that bus!

If I could afford it, this Roberto Fuentevilla painting would hang in my future living room

Here is the bus. It was a bit expensive because I chose an expensive part of the day to ride it. Television sets and fully reclining extra padded seats for $15. Wish our airplanes were like this!

Oh and one more thing,,, this is what I saw riding home on the bus. I believe it needs a caption. Any Ideas?

Nisga’a Museum-Laxgalt, ap BC Canada

One of the best small museums I have ever visited is the Nisga’a in British Columbia. The architecture of the building which highlights the natural beauty of traditional tribal lands along with the highly curated and informative exhibits will surely take your breath away and give you a new sense of appreciation for traditional First Nation history and practices.

To get to the multiple galleries one enters through a replica of a longhouse. I suggest entering more than once to really get a feeling of what is being conveyed and to be able to experience the feast for your eyes that surrounds you.

The first gallery is known as the Transformation Gallery. Here you will find a huge collection of spirit masks (naxnok) and costumes that were used to the tell the stories of spirits and their role in society.

After exiting this colorful gallery you are directed to the Shaman’s Gallery (Halayt Gallery) which emphasizes the role of the Shaman in society and displays items used to call and direct the supernatural.

The Museum also contains several more galleries which discuss the history of the Nisga’a, the possessions of the people, laws and customs, as well as showcasing daily life of the tribe and individuals roles within it. Headdresses, bentwood boxes and rattles are just a few of the exquisite things that will be seen as you meander through. Be sure to take some time to explore as this is not an educational center to rush through.

One of the best things about this museum is the kindness of staff who will patiently answer or will find the answer to any question you might have. These are individuals who are immensely proud of their culture/heritage and want to be sure that everyone who leaves takes a bit of that appreciation with them.

Finally, be sure to check out the gift shop where local artists have their works on display and where you can also find further information about the indigenous people throughout the region.

There is a small entrance fee. Families pay $22, adults, $8 and children $5. The museum is open from Early May through the end of October on Wednesdays through Sundays from 10 am until 5 pm. It is located at: 810 Highway Drive, Lax̱g̱altsʼapBritish Columbia, Canada. For further information call 1 (250) 633- 3050.

Museum of Contemporary Art-Sydney

Sitting almost directly across the pier from the Sydney Opera House in the Museum of Contemporary Art or MCA. Filled with diverse art treasures from Australia including paintings, pottery, indigenous pieces and a whole trove of other displays; you won’t be disappointed spending a couple hours of your day here.

This picture doesn’t do this indigenous necklace justice. Missing from it is the immense length of the piece as well as the different depths that the beading creates when viewing it.

From small displays to pictures that fill entire walls your imagination will certainly be stirred while viewing alll the different genres of art that MCA holds in its collection

MAC has a range of artwork from provocative to “Heck, I could have made that myself” works I found myself contemplating the question “What is art?” This is something my friend Leah and I have discussed many times. She is of the belief that art is art and you can’t put any parameters on it. I, on the other hand, believe that if I could have created it, well then, it certainly can’t be considered art by any stretch of the imagination.

MCA is open 10am-5 pm daily except Tuesdays when the museum is closed. Open all holidays except Christmas on December 25. There is a cafe for casual dining and its a nice place to relax a bit after all the walking.

  • Adults $20
  • Concession $16

Free for MCA Members, under 18s and Australian students.

Museum of Contemporary Art Australia
Tallawoladah, Gadigal Country
140 George Street
The Rocks
Sydney NSW 2000

Western Antique Airplane & Automobile Museum (WAAAM)

Hidden outside the historic and charming town of Hood River, Oregon, is one of the most interesting museums I have been to in a long time. Consisting of over 3.5 indoor acres of automobiles, airplanes, motorcycles and military equipment; it is easy to spend a couple of hours looking at some of America’s most beloved machines. All the exhibits are in pristine shape and several times a year the doors open so that the autos can hit the road while the planes fly high. With volunteer docents who know all about each and every last vehicle and whom always have plenty of interesting and funny stories to tell; this place is a treasure looking to shine bright on the rainiest of Oregon days. Open 9am-5pm daily. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas. WAAAM is located at 1600 Air Museum Road, Hood River, Oregon. Telephone (541) 308-1600.

WAAAM…This Mighty Museum Will Hit

You Right Between The Eyes

Getty Center

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The Getty Center in the Brentwood section of Los Angles is an amazing feat of architecture. Designed to allow maximum viewing along with introspection from all areas; it is a place to go just to enmesh yourself in the soul of a building. Screw the art!

The Getty was built in 1997 and designed by Robert Meier. Bountiful gardens and vistas open up throughout the facility giving visitors a chance to be one with the glory of nature. With outdoor sculptures and numerous lavish fountains dotting the 24 acre complex it makes for a full-scale outdoor art experience.

Of course, the Getty, viewing one of the greatest collections of paintings in the world  by artists such as van Gogh, Rembrandt, and Delacroix; is an amazing experience.

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For those with an interest in illuminated manuscripts and old photographs; the Getty Center doesn’t disappoint.   But for the kids, the best part of the trip to the Getty will be riding the tram up the mountain from the subterranean parking garage.

The Getty Center is closed Mondays and on Thanksgiving, Christmas and January 1. Parking is $15. Admission is free. There is also a lovely restaurant that offers expensive food served up with incredible views.

 

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