The coastal city of Valparaiso is known as an excellent day trip destination from Santiago so why did we hesitate to take the plunge? I suspect it was because Santiago was such a disappointment compared to other places we had traveled in the region. But sometimes listening to “the experts” pays off and in the case of Valparaiso it did. Known as the “City of Murals” it once served as busy seaport off-loading ships traveling between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans through the Straits of Magellan. While still an important port its glory days were numbered when the Panama Canal came into existence. Today it is known as a bohemian town, rich in a variety of festivals and artistic folk who paint, sculpt, and indulge in interesting and dynamic forms of modern art.
We hopped a bus at one of the stations which offered regular routes between Santiago and the coast. Buses run about every half-hour to hour depending on what bus company you choose. Ticket prices run between $7-20 US dollars depending on the company and the departing time. The hour and 45 minute trip took us through mountains that reminded me of Southern California passes and Central Valley vineyards.
After arriving at the bus station we picked up an Uber and headed to the port for some lunch. We ate at an ancient sea food restaurant which I wish I could say was fantastic but it wasn’t. Part of the issue was in the translation of the menu. Crab cake = hot crab dip in a bowl. Seafood stew turned out to be cheese over scallops. Disappointing, yes, but while we were there the place grew crowded with locals so perhaps knowing local dishes could have been helpful.
Luckily, we chose to go on a Saturday and the artisan market located in the square was bustling with a large variety of artists selling all sorts of wares. I bought a beautiful multi-colored metal bracelet for about $10.
From there we headed over to the port to watch the unloading of huge cargo ships. The boats are so big and the number of shipping containers stacked upon the decks is mind blowing. It was an interesting stop within the city. From here you can also catch boats which take you out on various fishing excursions.
Then it was on to what we had come to see…the famous street art of the town. Since Valparaiso is surrounded by hills reminiscent of San Francisco the city has always had issues with moving its citizens about. However, a hundred years ago there was an extensive number of funiculars which were installed just for that purpose. Today, the town has sixteen working funiculars which climb the steep hills and can be found on the UNESCO World Heritage List. I can’t remember exactly how much they cost to ride but it is cheap and the toll is worth it if it saves your knees for the many curves and slopes which await you on the cobblestone streets ahead.
The vistas from the top of the hills are amazing and outside the Museo Palacio Barurizza. The museum is closed for lunch but a small free exhibition of the works of cartoonist Rene Rios a/k/a Pepo, creator of Condorito, a much loved Chilean condor, was available for viewing in the basement.
From the museum we wandered alleys and hidden staircases, ducking into small shops and artist studios, while enjoying the street art that Valparasio is so famous for. Hope you enjoy this very small taste of the murals of this interesting coastal city!
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