Lima Peru…One Of The Most Beautiful Cities In The World

When we decided to visit Lima Pera it came quite a shock to us that it was one of the premier gastronomy delights in the world. After residing here for five days we have also discovered that it is one of the most interesting and beautiful cities in the world blessed with incredible weather and amazing views.

Lima is built high on a cliff and below it runs something akin to the Pacific Coast Highway of California. The city is putting a lot of time and money into this area and while driving you will see all sorts of activities available to locals and tourists alike. From sand volleyball courts, to an Olympic-sized pool, skateboard park, and basketball courts; Lima is working hard to re-make itself into a city for all ages and all interests. Meanwhile, up on the cliffs there are miles of walking trails looking down on the Pacific Ocean, pocket parks, and plenty of new high-rise apartments. Mom and Pop restaurants are everywhere as are local shops. You won’t find the big box stores in these neighborhoods. We are in staying in artsy-artsy neighborhood of Barranco and walk over to Barrio Miraflores everyday utilizing the giant overpass that stretches from one part of one city to the other.

Walking through Barranco the other day we found several gems. One was the Second Home Peru Guesthouse. Once owned by Peruvian sculptor, Victor Delfin, the hotel features his artwork throughout the grounds and has a quaint public bar with outdoor seating overlooking the ocean. It really is a place to get away and relax for an hour or two as you explore the barrio.

We also found three incredible stores which feature artisans from Peru. It was difficult to take my hands off the smooth beauty of the fine furniture which one can preview at Arteanos Don Bosco. While at tienda Dedalo the ceramics and textiles were a feast for the eyes. Street artist Jade Rivera’s gallery was an explosion of colors and abstract meanings which make those viewing his work stop and contemplate the known and consider what may previously been the unknown. What surprised me the most was that I saw on of his giant murals in Santiago and photographed it only to find postcard copies in the gallery. Walk a little further down the block and you will come to the Mural Bridge….it is truly stunning.

The next day we ubered to the Plaza Mayor which sits in the center of the historic district. Here you can find the Basilica Cathedral of Lima, the Palace. and many more smaller churches and museums within a couple of blocks.

The Cathedral was founded in 1535 but has undergone many renovations since due to earthquakes which damaged the building many times over the years. Inside, there are creepy crypts, thirteen chapels and rooms which house sacred religious art.

Sepulcher Room of Don Francisco Pizarro

After leaving the Cathedral we heard some marching band music and headed over to the Palace where it so happened that the changing go the guard was taking place! What a delightful stumble as I have always tried to attend these and I had no clue that they did such a thing in Lima.

We then headed to lunch and if I can give a piece of advice…don’t eat around the Plaza Mayor. The food is expensive and not particularly good but I have to confess I like the free Pisco sours they had out to get you into a restaurant!

We then stumbled upon the MUCEN also known as the Banco Central De Reserva Del Peru. Housed in an old bank building this museum offers up contemporary art, traditional artwork of the Pre-Columbian peoples of the area and paintings from the 1600-1800’s. It is a great little museum and just perusing the building is worth it. There is no entrance fee.

From there we happened up the Centro Cultural Inca Garcilaso another small museum.

I think it is important to let you know that the smaller ancient churches downtown have limited hours usually from 9-12 and from 5-8 pm. We were disappointed to miss some of these gems and think it is worth the time spent to visit them if you can.

At this point I am just going to dump some photos that I hope you will enjoy. Lima really is an incredible city and it’s a place I will probably return to again and again. Moderate weather, beautiful scenery, a fascinating history, easy walking neighborhoods, and a feeling of safety makes this an ideal place to spend time and explore until your heart is content.

What I Like And Dislike About Santiago

I have to confess I have found little to be charmed about in this city which has suffered misery and depravity for many years. Apartment buildings that look like Soviet cement gulags and mountains that just look thirsty and hot AND worn out surround the area. It is not a place to which I will return and that is a shame. A shame because years of authoritarianism left the city behind the eight ball of the rest of the world and it doesn’t appear that it will ever catch up. Put a government in control in which people are snatched off the street, unrest is a steady diet of the masses, and people are forced to live in a state of constant fear …well, its no wonder that economic and emotional chaos follows for years to come. I suspect that for however long an authoritarian regime holds power that it takes at least triple that number of years to restore a sense of belonging to the city itself. Either that or until everyone who has experienced its atrocities has passed. No matter, it is not good for the soul of the place. For authoritarian governments do not die with the death or removal of the despot but continue in a thousand insidious ways after they are gone.

Yet, while I have to believe things are improving for the average person here I wonder if this place will ever be what it could have been. I have a list of my likes and dislikes of Santiago that I hope can be a road map to change however long that takes.

LIKES:

  1. The National Library is a treasure. Take a trip to the second floor and lose yourself in the sense of magic that the library holds. Think Hogwarts on a much smaller scale. The circular staircases and wood paneling are exquisite!

  1. Public transportation here is incredible. Never have I seen so many buses in one city. The Metro is fantastic too.
  2. The old-style European and the art deco buildings give you a small sense of what life was like 100 years ago.
  1. Great wines are available at decent prices.
  2. Many of the parks and museums have no entrance fees.
  3. The historic churches are the crown jewels of the city and give it a small sense of grandeur.
  1. Instant markets where people set up shop on the street selling their wares.
  2. The numerous curves streets and apartment buildings. It adds a sense of appreciation for things created with interest and drama.
  3. Pesco Sours. The national drink which is cool and refreshing.
  1. Round windows that open and pivot.
  1. The gelato is everywhere and its amazing.
  1. There are some really wonderful murals throughout the city.

DISLIKES:

  1. The graffiti. It is everywhere with few buildings untouched. No matter the height of the building you can find the words and drawings top to bottom. Every one we talked to who didn’t live here commented on the vastness of it all. Let’s face it is gives people a sense that no one cares enough to take pride and care of their living spaces.

2. Chile is expensive. Prices are high for most things except acupuncture for which I paid about the equivalent of $35 for massage, cupping, and the needles which lasted 1 1/2 hours. Luckily, I feel better after 10 days of severe neck pain.

Screenshot

3. The food is bland and not particularly good. It is also pretty expensive. That said, one of our best meals was a taco place in a flea market… spicy food bursting with flavor! While you will have no problem finding greasy fried food’ typical menu fare the restaurants offer little more than the usual pizza, burgers, and empanadas.

4. No matter where we were people gave me advice to put away my phone because thieves would ride by and snatch them out of your hand. This makes taking photos next to impossible and contributes to a sense of an over-all lack to safety.

5. Like places and people everywhere that have been oppressed, even if hundreds of years ago, that sense of oppression remains. While history cannot and should not be erased, this land is full of memorials, artwork, and statues of the conquerors which appears to contribute to an undertow of negative vibrations that can be seen in its indigenous people’s faces and can be felt within its borders.

While I come away with a not so favorable impression of Santiago; I am reminded that there is good and beauty wherever you go. Sometimes you just have to seek it out. And so I leave you with this mixed bag of photos :

Philadelphia Murals And Some Special Pieces Of Art

I recently returned from Central America and went straight to Philly to spend time with MC. It was a lovely month long visit to a city I had not been in since I was about twelve-years-old. With so much history that the city has to offer, you might wonder why this isn’t a post about the Liberty Bell. Let’s just say that I have decided to leave that for others for the time being. With the state of the nation these days I decided that I would concentrate on the vibrant street art of the city which gives Philly it’s own beat and brings color to a word that seems to be somewhat void of that these days. I have no idea who most of these talented artists are but I confess I am in awe. I can’t even draw something legible on a (peace) of paper much less an entire building with correct proportions! So here are a few of my favorites with a special surprise at the end. Enjoy!

Fishtown

A Beautiful Glass Tile Mural

Now for the surprise. I went into a restaurant while there and stumbled onto these which I thought were absolutely ingenious…who knew such a thing could be done!

I am back in Panama now but I leave you with this from the City of Brotherly Love: