Going to Nicaragua is a different experience. We had to leave the truck behind, pay exit fees at the Costa Rican border, walk a distance in the ” NO MAN’S LAND” which lies between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, pay $1 outside of the Nicaragua customs building, stand in line for about 20 minutes to get to see a customs official, pay another $13 (I think), have our luggage scanned and then exit the building walk about 300 meters to the Alamo Car Rental.
Driving is easy as they drive on the same side of the road as in the USA but what struck me first were two things: beautiful trees on both sides of the road created a beautiful green canopy as we drove. It was gorgeous and reminded me of the East Coast. The second thing that I found interesting is as we traveled down the main highway (NO POTHOLES!!! unlike Costa Rica) there were cows and horses tied up to the fences all a long the road. It was amazing.
It is only about a 45 minute drive from the border to San Juan Del Sur. It is an old beach town that is slowly getting discovered by tourists but retains its gritty but sweet character from years gone by. We were located at the bay but there are beautiful beaches all around the area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and what a gorgeous sunset it was. This is a real fishing town so watching the boats head out to sea and return with family waiting for them is a reminder of that “waiting history” that fishing hubs around the world have experienced for eons.
Night time is interesting here as there are beach volleyball games with families watching the kids do their thing. Horses meander along side the water and parrots squawk in the trees. The town basically rolls up the sidewalk at 8 pm as families walking hand-in-hand head back to home.
The next couple of days were a blur. We walked the town peeking in shops and enjoying the street markets. Grills were set up on the street where you could buy pollo and rice for about $2-3 bucks. I loved watching the women and men carrying their wares on their heads, the buzz of the street market, and the kindness of the people we talked to along the way. Everyone was friendly and put up with my attempts at speaking Spanish, often teaching me a word or two along the way.
We also visited the local park and church which is incredibly beautiful in its simplicity. In addition, you can’t help but view The Christ of the Mercy which is a colossal statue of Jesus Christ which rises to a height of 134m above sea level and can be seen throughout the town.
While here we took time to look at real estate that is for sale in the area. Take a look at this three-bedroom beauty which was selling for $459,000 with pristine teak woodwork and views that were amazing. One of my favorite was a small villa in a gated pool community which was selling for $140,000 with HOA’s of $400 per month
If you know me; you know I love a good mural. From the out-of-this world type of paintings to the murals that can bring tears to your eyes; San Juan del Sur has plenty of talented artists offering up their best.
I loved San Juan Del Sur and who knows I might end up there one day. But for now I leave you with the local high school band practicing on the Main Street of the town.
Before you set off on a trip, you tend to believe that your time away will be nothing but glorious. Today was not that day.
It started with my computer that decided it did not want to wake up when I did. As a matter of fact, it hasn’t woken up all day. This is obviously a very bad sign, especially when you are living in the middle of rural Costa Rica and there’s nowhere that can fix it . Therefore, I’m attempting to write this blog by speaking into a microphone. We shall see how it goes, but I would expect a lot of typos that I’m probably too lazy to fix.
After I discovered the bad news about my computer, I decided to take a walk. It was a lovely morning … cloudy with mist hanging over the mountains and not yet hot. I had one cup of coffee in and enough caffeine to probably get me to the next village when I heard this.:
After that excitement, I drove to Nicoya where I was delighted to find a new store with all sorts of gluten-free items. Of course, it was expensive but great to find as I started home. A huge thunderstorm arrived. The thunderstorms are very loud because they echo across the valley. It’s kind of cool and I like them. However, I lost my GPS and therefore my way home. I ended up only God knows where in the back country, even further back than I currently am, trying to find my way out. Eventually, I made it home, unlocked the gate in the pouring rain, looked up, to see what all the racket was. It was these beautiful parrots. Take a listen and a look: (For some reason you have to press the triangles even though there is no movie… then it shows up)
Parrots
All is well until right after I finish filming this when I slipped on a wet rock and landed on my shoulder, you know the one with the torn rotator cuff. At first, I thought I broke my wrist, but I didn’t. Thank goodness, but I did screw up the shoulder again. I’d like to say the video of the parrots was worth it… We shall see about that!
Today is the festival so I will be going to the school at 4 PM to help celebrate. I was invited and I think it has something to do with beans. It is also Costa Rica’s Independence Day so I guess I will find out how beans tie into that But I’m excited and honored that I was asked to come. I’ll let you know how it goes. 
As my time in Queretaro ends ( I’ll be heading to Costa Rica on Sunday) I decided to post about the things I have come to love about Mexico. I am fortunate. I have been able to spend 10 weeks here so I have been able to soak up some of the culture that I would have missed had I only been here for 10 days. I have met people and have been shown various forms of kindness that have touched my life and that I will always remember. I have talked to Mexicans who have been kidnapped by ICE and sent back to Mexico after being handcuffed and detained for long periods of time. And I have spent time in ancient churches and have been exposed to antiquities that have made me truly appreciate the history and the people of Central Mexico. I am happy to say that I feel that I received the cultural experience I was hoping for and I feel extremely blessed.
COURTYARDS– I love the courtyards and plazas that grace the cities providing a meeting place for all. The trees that line these places serve an important function by keeping the populace/city cooler. We should have many more of these gathering centers in the USA.
QueretaroQueretaroEl Pueblito
THE TILES– The tile work around here is amazing and you can find it just about everywhere. It beautifies the city while at the same time glorifies the artwork of local craftspersons.
QueretaroSan MiguelJuriquilla
THE MOUNTAINS AND THE STONE WALLS– There are few things as beautiful as stone walls in which each stone has been lifted, chosen, and meticulously put in place by hands over the ages. The work that goes into these is back breaking and they are a testament to those trying to create a better life for themselves.
Amealco
THE STREET VENDORS-Never have I seen such hard-working people. Day and night they are out peddling their wares. Here, I have never found them to be pushy… only kind as they do everything they can to provide for their families. I cannot imagine trying to earn a living this way but somehow they do and almost always with a smile on their faces.
JuriquillaJuriquillaQueretaro-Plaza de ArmusBernalQueretaroOn My Street
THE DRINKS– Okay a confession. I have discovered I like a good smokey mezcal and on a hot day. It beats a beer any day.
THE MURALS– I did a whole blog on the murals because they are vibrant, so imaginative and they are an excellent way to showcase the talents and beliefs of the local people. Here are a few more to enjoy.
San MiguelTown of El PueblitoTown Of El PueblitoTown of El Pueblito
THE DRESSES– Here is Mexico the Quinceañera is a really big deal. It is held to mark a girl’s 15th birthday which signifies her entry into womanhood and the responsibilities that she inherits as a result. The dresses are fabulous. In addition, the major department stores rents these dresses or prom dresses which I thought was a wonderful way to allow those with less money to attend these events looking absolutely stunning.
THE FOUNTAINS– They are everywhere and each is different with various meanings or honoring local history.
QueretaroQueretaro
THE DOORS– Anyone who really knows me knows that I LOVE doors and have taken pictures of them during all of my travels. Mexico’s doors are by far some of the most beautiful I have ever seen and the decorated doors come in all kinds of designs. In San Miguel you are not allowed to replace a historic door without permission and I can understand why. Many of these doors are hundreds of years old and have come to represent the city’s fascinating past.
RELIGIOUS WORKS OF ART– I find religious artwork fascinating because besides the feelings that viewing them invoke; the paintings often depict the lives of everyday normal people.
PIANOS ON THE STREETS– I find this aspect of city life to be the most charming. So many people just plop down and play, usually just one song, and then get up and leave. From chopsticks to piano players who sound concert hall worthy; listening to someone who has the guts to perform in front of strangers is a delightful way to pass some time. I also love just listening to various street musicians doing what they do best.
QueretaroSan MiguelQueretaro
DAY OF THE DEAD– So everyone tells me I have to come back to witness for myself the Day of the Dead celebrations and I probably will. In the meantime there are all sorts of reminders of this beloved holiday of the Mexican people.
THE CHURCHES– While not a traditional religious person; I have spent my fair share of time sitting in the churches listening to the bells, choirs and priests. I feel at peace when in these churches taking in all the art and beautiful sounds of people as they come to pray. Something about the churches in Mexico are special. While I can’t quite put my finger on what makes them stand out all I know is that they do….you’ll just have to take my word on it.
Templo de Santo Domingo- 1697 Templo de Santo Domingo Santa Iglesia CathedralVILLAS DEL MESON
THE FOOD– The food here is great. Besides the “traditional” Mexican food that we know and love there are fantastic fusions and ancient food items like Huitlacoche which I talked about previously.
Roasted Corn SoupVarious Breakfast BreadsFried Bananas With Passion Fruit Ice CreamCorn dripping in lime, slathered in mayo and rolled in cheeseChili NagoyaHuitlacocheArroz Con LecheShrimp, Mango, Avocado, Coconut FusionTraditional Food
TRADITIONAL FOLK ART– Most folk art here is choke full of vibrant colors often depicting dreams or wishes of the artists. The embroidery is unbelievable and the rugs are reminiscent of ancient patterns used throughout the country. Browse the artisan markets or just buy off the street corner. Either way you will come home with treasures that will remind you of this colorful area,
HISTORY– While I only made it to one temple, Queretaro, has the most of any state in Mexico. They are everywhere. Because of this, the archeological treasures are immense and museums throughout the country are filled with the treasures of this area.
Since living here I have come to believe that this area is the cultural Mecca of Mexico. And while I understand the desire to frolic on the beach; I now know that there is so much more to Mexico than sand, sea and surf. Central Mexico is a place that will spark your imagination and will instill a sense of appreciation for the past. It is definitely a part of the country that must be seen to be appreciated. Getting here is easy just hop a flight for Queretaro. I guarantee you will not regret it.
I had such a wonderful day with Denise in San Miguel that I have decided to create two posts. This one is about the Art / Antique Scene in this lovely town. Tomorrow I will post pictures throughout the city…watch out there are some wild ones! Now onto the arts….
San Miguel became a haven for artists after the end of WWII. Many US soldiers who had a GI Bill came to the area to study and participate in the arts and in doing so they helped to create an artist haven. Much of this growth was attributed to an American named Stirling Dickinson whose connections allowed returning soldiers to attend Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes. Over 6,000 students had applied for admission by January 1948 and the San Miguel slowly made its way from near ghost town to the vibrant place that it is today. In 2008 the city was named as a UNESCO Heritage site and five times Condé Nast Traveler has deemed it “the Best Small City in the World.”
The first place Denise took me to was a consignment store named La Fina that I could have easily roamed through for an entire week. Because San Miguel is such a city of affluent Mexicans and foreigners this shop held treasures beyond belief. I loved the twelve foot high bookcases which towered like skyscrapers along with furniture from all over the world. Take a look….this is my kind of place.
From La Fina we ventured forth to La Aurora which is a former factory repurposed into an art gallery/wine bar/ food haven. The building is magnificent as are the gardens and there is something new to view around every corner. If you love all things artsy this is your place and you might even be able to meet some of the artists as they work in their studios.
From La Aurora we went deeper into town and visited some small galleries as we walked the streets. I love the beaded work (Huichol art) and the intricacy of these pieces is just amazing. I know I would never have the kind of patience it would take to set each bead into place. Same goes with the Mexican Tree of Life Sculptures which are made of clay usually featuring indigenous people and religious themes.
iThere you go a short tour of some of the best places to visit in San Miguel Allende for art/antiques and just plain wonderful finds. The day was memorable and the items I saw just spectacular. I want to go back again today…want to join me?!
Here in this part of Mexico the “Maria Doll” or Mexican Rag Doll can easily be found. Sporting colorful dresses and ribbons braided into the doll’s hair, these festive moppets have a rich history that runs throughout the central region of the country. Dating back to the Colonial period in Mexico’s history; Marias were handmade by the Otomi and Mazahua communities which are located in and around Guanajuato, Michoacan and Queretaro . The modern dolls of today were soon crafted to celebrate the women street vendors who sold their wares back in the 1970’s.
Each doll is handmade and in the past clothing used by members of the household was stitched together to create each unique doll. With their winsome smiles the Marias were also thought to protect children from evil spirits.
Today Maria’s are big business and indigenous women in traditional dress can often be found in heavily touristed areas selling their dolls. And I can attest to the fact that nothing brings a smile to face of a vendor quicker then when she sells one of her dolls to a child who holds her Maria close and walks off with a big smile gracing her own face.
And look what I found in downtown Queretaro. Is this too cute or what?
This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.
In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.
Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.
Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.
There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.
Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.
Arriving in Vietnam was an interesting experience. Unlike most countries it was an easy entry process. Effortless, really.That was a welcome surprise in a land seeped in tradition.
As we drove to our hotel it was eerie to see the War Museum and all the weaponry from the Vietnam War lining the streets acting as museums to those who drove out our young men. Driving past empty barracks that United States soldiers lived in was likewise very strange. My kids, of course, don’t remember the war, but I do. It was a really big thing when I was growing up and every night I watched the news on t.v. to see how many soldiers had been killed that day. My mother woke me up to watch the news when our Prisoners of War returned home from the Vietnam and I saw many of the protests when I was growing up. I grew up with Vietnam in my conscious memory…in fact, my brother-in-law was a soldier here when he was 18-22. The war changed him and his experiences in Vietnam made it difficult for him when he returned home. I always wondered who he might have been had he not gone.
About a 15 minute ride from Danang is the town of Hoi An. On the way to this ancient city we saw women working in the rice paddies with water buffalo also standing in the fields. I will tell you that working in the paddies has got to be some of the hardest work anyone can do anywhere! I am fortunate that I do not have to labor in the hot fields while standing in water and mud all day long.
Hoi An is a town built around centuries old canals. It is a beautiful ancient place with various periods/types of architecture from French Colonial buildings to Chinese shops and the famous Japanese covered bridge (Chua Cau) with its pagoda guarding the walkway. While its now a tourist stop the town and its people are still definitely wrapped in a soft silk-like tradition, plenty of old time charm, lots to see and do.
When we were Hoi An, the New Year Celebrations were just around the corner and as a result the entire town smelled of a mix of pungent incenses that were sometimes so thick that it threatened to choke you. In preparation for the holidays locals were paddling their boats down the river and opening brightly colored paper lanterns and placing them on the water. The brilliant yellows, reds, blues and greens of the lanterns floating along as we strolled made the river look as if it was a moving body of vibrant flowers.
We also saw boys out in the park playing soccer and elderly ladies carrying baskets laden with fruit for sale…the things these women must have seen and endured during the war and after the fall of the country!
For lunch we had a drink made from grapefruit, passion fruit, and mint. It was a lovely sweet and tart explosion in my mouth that I craved for the rest of the trip. I even had a salad made of banana blossoms which tasted somewhat sweet with a slight citrus flavor. Those noodle looking things in the picture…banana blossoms.
The people from Hoi An among the kindest I have ever met. Everyone asked us how we are and where we were from. The serenity of this place is intoxicating. The people are quiet and gentle…we could learn some important things from them.
As for me, I felt like I saw some of what my BIL must have seen and I feel a sense of awe and a sense of sadness too. It is hard to explain how this trip to Vietnam effected me but it was unlike anything I have felt before. I come away from this place feeling like I know my BIL better since taking this trip than I did when he was alive. And this is a blessing and a sense of closure descends over me like the clouds rolling through the rice paddies and finally my brain quiets after years of wonder.
Oh, and if you decide to travel to Vietnam yourself I can hook you up with an incredible tour guide. Just leave me a message and I will contact you with the information you will need.
I love street food. Just smelling it, looking at it and tasting it makes me giddy with anticipation and pleasure. I just know my taste buds are going to rejoice and do the “happy dance” as these flavors hit my tongue. From the hot red bean cakes found in Seoul to the jack fruit I tasted in Chiang Mai; there is something exciting about supporting vendors who have found their niche in the world of food.
One of the best places I have ever found for street food is in Beijing. Rows and rows of vendors some selling directly from their carts along with the lucky few who have a few tables for their best customers; this is a place where just about any food can be found. This is a place where food is plentiful and cheap…very cheap. If you are on a budget, street food should be your culinary horn of plenty.
But any words I could possibly say about this experience would be bland, like food without spice, wine or salt. So instead I leave you with these pictures of Beijing street food so you can “taste” them yourself.
The most flavorful dates I have ever eaten
Corn anyway you like it
And they say the Iowa State Fair has everything on a stick…I beg to differ!
One sweltering hot day in the middle of the Grecian summer we decided we needed to get away. But where should be go? Being on an island did not offer many opportunities but as our friendly hotel manager pointed out there was one place we could go while visiting a new country to boot …so we booked passage to Bodrum Turkey on the ferry and took off the next morning.
Now I live in a state known for its high temperatures and I am used to the heat. Yet, it was so hot the day we went that even the boat skipping over the cool water provided little relief. The cross breezes were so mild that blowing my own hot air cooled the air around me more than the breeze coming off the water. It was sweltering, so I took to dipping my shirt in the water to cool down; the effect not long lasting as it would be dry within 10 minutes. But the water was crystal inky blue and the birds dived along beside the boat making for a memorable ride as the parched hills seemed to rise higher the closer we came to Turkey’s shore. But what I remember most was when St. Peter’s Castle a/k/a Bodrum Castle suddenly appear on the horizon….now that was a site! And then slowly the harbor around which it is perched came into view. Oh, the anticipation of seeing what was in this ancient port city stirred the fire in my belly.
After disembarking we stood in line, passports in hard, waiting to have them stamped. I guess we looked harmless enough because they let us in. Sometimes that still astounds me… that whole letting me in process. Really….me?!!!!!!
With landing completed we joined the throng of tourists also taking a day trip to this fascinating country. Boats with flags of all colors and countries lined the dock. Some were sleek, some dingy, but all were magnificent in their own way. We turned towards the castle.
Construction on Bodrum Castle began in 1402 by the Knights Of St. John. Each langue of the Order had its own tower and each had their own distinct style. The castle was built with plenty of twists and turns in order to keep enemy soldiers at bay. It served as a sanctuary for Christians throughout the area for over a century.
Then in 1962 the Turkish Government decided to turn the castle into a museum called the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology. It houses one of the biggest collections of ancient glassware in the world and contains relics from the 12th century BC. Ship excavations are detailed and the treasures that can be found through the many rooms of the castle are truly a site to see.
Back outside the port area bustles. Tourist shops line the street, small restaurants and craftsmen ply their trade.
I found this sign slightly humorous
Little side streets and alleyways beckon you to explore a little deeper into the heart of the city.
This is a photo of an artist whose pictures we admired and bought several from him which hang in our home today. Such a sweet, friendly and talented man!
You will find just about anything you want here (except really good shade) so shop carefully because undoubtedly you’ll find the same item cheaper further on down the street.
While in Bodrum we took one of the tour buses. That is a story itself which I will save for another time. But if you are ever in the area I would recommend a stop at Bodrum. In fact, if I had to do it all again I would have spent several days in and around this area of Turkey only this time I would forego traveling there during the intense heat of the summer. And because is a land where ancient and modern meet, you never know just what surprises await you but they are sure to be memorable.
HINTS: This is not a cheap excursion. It costs a little less than $40 USD round trip for the ferry.
HINTS: The Museums are closed on Mondays. The entrance fee to Bodrum Castle is approximately $9 USD.
Okay, I will admit that I am a little biased. I may even be more in love with this town than just about any I have ever been to but it has nothing to do with the fact that my 2nd great grandparents emigrated from here and that their parents and their parents parents lived here too. No, this town is a true historical gem and it deserves any accolades it receives. Each and every one of them.
The day we came we had visited a town 10 miles away that my SIL’s family had emigrated from. It was small, desolate and looked like much of it had been destroyed during WWII. New buildings stood on a main street lined with them. It was a real disappointment to her because there was no character in the town. None. Needless to say, I was afraid that I would be bitterly disappointed to have come all that way to see Gernsbach and have it just be a shell of a town. Thankfully it wasn’t.
Gernsbach is located 7 km from Baden-Baden in the Black Forest. The town was established in the 12th century and paper is a huge part of its economy as it has been for centuries. My 2nd great grandfather worked as a Joiner while living here in the early 1800’s. His mother, Elizabeth Lippert, was born in this town in 1792.
The first clue that this would be a grand place to explore was the huge stone bridge that stood as an entrance to the town and divides it in half. We made a quick right and began climbing up the hillside streets where we had views that stretched for miles of the surrounding mountains. It was breathtaking. This has got to be one of the most romantic spots in all of Germany so take advantage of it.
Another era of the past were the cobblestone streets filled the town square and stretched out beyond meandering throughout the city. But the most impressive thing were the row upon row of beautiful timbered houses that have stood for hundreds of years.
One has been around since the 1600’s and tours are given of this outstanding building which is in the process of being restored. We climbed throughout the building venturing here and there and when we reached the top the views of the church on the hill were unmatched. I have to confess I ran my hands along the buildings outer and inner walls just sure that my 5th Great Grandmother had once done the same and that somehow we were touching each other’s hands.
Besides the numerous timbered houses there are also charming fountains that dot the city. Filled with baskets of flowers surrounding the water they are some of the most beautiful that I have ever seen.
There are also two churches, the protestant St.-Jakobskirche with its beautifully tended cemetery. It is an interesting thing that in Germany that you will rarely find old tombstones. This is because a family will lease the burial plot for a period of thirty years and if the family does not pay to have the plot renewed, everything is removed including the headstone. That said, this churchyard does have a few old stones that are worth looking at.
The other church is the Catholic church which was re-built in the 1800’s. The town walls surrounds it along with the early history of the place. We happened upon the church when the organist was practicing and the music was as enchanting as the building was beautiful. Hearing the organ explode throughout the church is something I will never forget.
Part of me hates to write about Gernsbach. It is an undiscovered gem. I am afraid that the next time I go back it will be swarming with tourists because with all its history and beauty this town is worthy of the biggest and best bus tours. This place is an undiscovered treasure. Selfishly, I hope it remains one.
Altes Rathaus, or Old Town Hall, was once a palace built for a rich timber merchant in 1671-1618.
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