San Juan Del Sur – Nicaragua

Going to Nicaragua is a different experience. We had to leave the truck behind, pay exit fees at the Costa Rican border, walk a distance in the ” NO MAN’S LAND” which lies between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, pay $1 outside of the Nicaragua customs building, stand in line for about 20 minutes to get to see a customs official, pay another $13 (I think), have our luggage scanned and then exit the building walk about 300 meters to the Alamo Car Rental.

Driving is easy as they drive on the same side of the road as in the USA but what struck me first were two things: beautiful trees on both sides of the road created a beautiful green canopy as we drove. It was gorgeous and reminded me of the East Coast. The second thing that I found interesting is as we traveled down the main highway (NO POTHOLES!!! unlike Costa Rica) there were cows and horses tied up to the fences all a long the road. It was amazing.

It is only about a 45 minute drive from the border to San Juan Del Sur. It is an old beach town that is slowly getting discovered by tourists but retains its gritty but sweet character from years gone by. We were located at the bay but there are beautiful beaches all around the area. We arrived just as the sun was setting and what a gorgeous sunset it was. This is a real fishing town so watching the boats head out to sea and return with family waiting for them is a reminder of that “waiting history” that fishing hubs around the world have experienced for eons.

Night time is interesting here as there are beach volleyball games with families watching the kids do their thing. Horses meander along side the water and parrots squawk in the trees. The town basically rolls up the sidewalk at 8 pm as families walking hand-in-hand head back to home.

The next couple of days were a blur. We walked the town peeking in shops and enjoying the street markets. Grills were set up on the street where you could buy pollo and rice for about $2-3 bucks. I loved watching the women and men carrying their wares on their heads, the buzz of the street market, and the kindness of the people we talked to along the way. Everyone was friendly and put up with my attempts at speaking Spanish, often teaching me a word or two along the way.

We also visited the local park and church which is incredibly beautiful in its simplicity. In addition, you can’t help but view The Christ of the Mercy which is a colossal statue of Jesus Christ which rises to a height of 134m above sea level and can be seen throughout the town.

While here we took time to look at real estate that is for sale in the area. Take a look at this three-bedroom beauty which was selling for $459,000 with pristine teak woodwork and views that were amazing. One of my favorite was a small villa in a gated pool community which was selling for $140,000 with HOA’s of $400 per month

If you know me; you know I love a good mural. From the out-of-this world type of paintings to the murals that can bring tears to your eyes; San Juan del Sur has plenty of talented artists offering up their best.

I loved San Juan Del Sur and who knows I might end up there one day. But for now I leave you with the local high school band practicing on the Main Street of the town.

My Morning (Mostly)

Last night we had a major thunderstorm, which was so cool, but also very loud, as the thunder echoes back-and-forth from one mountain to another. You can almost see the lightning roll back-and-forth between mountains and every once in a while, the house shakes down to its very bones as the thunder spanks the ground. We lost power and we lost water due to errant rock splicing through the plastic pipe. By eight this morning two men on motorcycles carrying new pipe, glue, and a shovel were standing alongside the road making the necessary repairs.

I start my walk around 6 am because the sun is usually shining brightly in the sky, and the temperature is increasing exponentially as each ray of sun peaks out from under the clouds. As I walk, I am greeted by children on motorcycles with their parents traveling to the school. I must say buenos dias 15 to 20 times a morning as everyone smiles and waves as I walk by. Yes, it’s official. I am a gringo, as explained to me by a friend but luckily a gringo that everyone wants to help improve her in Spanish, so everyone talks to me, and I fumble along, trying to make sense with a language that I’ve never spoken before. The people are gracious about my feeble attempts, but they appreciate that I try.

Below we will find pictures of my walk. I hope you get a sense of the beauty that I see every day. 

Last Night’s Thunderstorm

The Murals Are Amazing…Just Don’t Look Up!

One of the things I have come to appreciate are all the colorful murals that you can find along the streets of Mexico no matter what city you are in. They serve to brighten up a spot as well as act as advertising billboards. The colors that are used are vibrant enough to catch the eye and burn into your brain to the point you can always find the mural again. What’s cool is that the subject matter can be just about anything and what’s more is the murals can be small as an orange crate or as large as a city block. Here are a few examples of the artwork that I have seen during my two months here.

Yet, as beautiful as they are there is one problem with murals which is tied into a significant defect in city planning and a lack of consistent building codes. I will gladly admit this is one of the few things I abhor about Mexico and if I can give you one piece of advice about this country it would be this… never look up …. always keep your eyes on the ground…and stand still if you are gazing at anything higher than your head. Then, hopefully, you should be safe and survive your journey intact.

So here it is the thing I abhor: you have no idea how many times I have been walking along looking up at the steeples and the murals and anything else that has caught my when…WHAMMMM…the side walk ends or the road height changes significantly and down I go! I am surprised I have not ended up in the hospital with a broken ankle. To give you an idea how significant the problem is here are just a few examples of this high/low problem as found on my street alone. And mind you, the driveways leading out of each house, is a different height than that their neighbors. Nothing is uniform… but it should be.

And look at this hole in the sidewalk on my way to the supermercado. It looks exactly like a replica of a category five hurricane that we are shown on the television that comes complete with warnings of imminent death should you not move to higher ground.

So while we in the USA bitch and moan about all the rules and just want government off our backs; I can tell you from experience that there is a good reason for some of regulations. And if, in the future, I don’t blog, I would fancy to say that I was one of those virgin maidens that fell into one of the gigantic holes… never to be heard from again…at least that is how the story goes in my scariest of nightmares.

BERNAL, MEXICO- A Quaint Colonial Town

This week I had the good luck to travel to Bernal, Mexico, a small and quaint colonial town about an hour outside of Queretaro. Officially known as San Sebastián Bernal it was founded in 1642 by a Spanish soldier. It is well-known for its monolithic rock which is the third tallest in the entire world and twice yearly during the equinox; pilgrimages are made by the faithful dressed entirely in white to climb the rock which they believe provides healing and luck.

In 2005 the town was also declared a Pueblo Magico due to the magical symbolic stories and history of the town and its famous mountain. Because it is a lone mountain on a fairly flat plain many believe that it is the remnants of a huge meteor that plunged into the earth. One can only get to the top of the mountain with a special permit in hand along with special climbing equipment but for the rest of us the hike goes about half-way to the top. It is a strenuous hike so be prepared.

Another site to visit is the Temple of Saint Sebastian the Martyr which is located in the main square. It was built around 1700. The colors are intense and the garden is serene and magical with beautiful flowers and plants popping up near the stone gazebo.

Around the main square you will find many small shops and single vendors dressed in traditional garb that sell various Mexican crafts. I picked up some beautiful scarves for $5 each and you can also find beaded and unique clothing as well. One of the most interesting stores is to visit is the Lucero Ramos Estilo Entice. The woman who owns this amazing place designs and crafts all her own clothing. Her colors are rich and inviting and the styles will compliment any shopper.

There are several good places to eat serving yummy authentic Mexican dishes. One of them has great rooftop views which affords a sky high view of the entire area.

Here are a few more pictures of this gorgeous little town. I can definitely recommend a visit to this quieter region of Mexico which is surrounded by beautiful green hills and plenty of history which I find completely enchanting.

The Town Of Oatlands In Central Tasmania

One of the most beautiful towns we accidentally discovered in Tasmania was the town of Oatlands. Sitting about 50 miles north of Hobart it is a spectacular place to stop and explore.

One of merits of his town is its vast collection of colonial sandstone buildings which number over one hundred fifty. Largely built by convict labor in the early 19th century; it was also considered a significant outpost during the Black War which was fought between the Indigenous First Nation People of the area and white settlers.

But if you have already heard of Oatlands it is probably due to Callington Mill, the only Lincolnshire style windmill in the whole of Australia. Built in 1837 this mill is a beaut and has been restored to its glory days.

Lake Dulverton, which borders Oatlands is well known for its many hiking paths which criss-cross in various directions. Fishing is another great pastime here and anglers can catch both rainbow and brown trout. The lake is also a bird watchers paradise where you can spot herons, ducks, and watch as black swans glide alongside the “cows” that inhabit the lake.

Oatlands also offers visitors a treasure trove of gardens and topiaries from one end of the town to the other. I was amazed at the different sizes and shapes of living sculptures that dotted the town.

While there we also visited the Oatlands District Historical Museum featuring local memorabilia from the town’s early history to the present. There is also a rather substantial bird egg collection housed within its walls and the docents are eager to share their vast knowledge of the area.

Finally, the Callington Mill Distillery offers an experience that few will forget. Producing both award winning gins and whiskeys; your senses will explode as you indulge in your first taste of Poltergeist Citrus known for its hints of candied fruit, orange, and key lime pie. Yummm. Better yet sit down and enjoy and lunch at their restaurant, The Cellar Door, which serves a variety of farm-to-table meats and produce. After lunch your next course of action is to order a flight of whiskey tastings followed by a self guided tour to learn more about what goes into making these bodacious spirits. Better yet, the facility also offers its own whiskey guides who help guests craft their own unique single malt whiskey complete with an original label.

Oatlands is the type of town that magically draws you in and keeps your enchanted. In short, it is one of the rare places that once you get there you don’t want to leave and its the kind of village where you suddenly find yourself searching for the nearest real estate office with sudden fantasies of finding a place of your own in this idyllic hideaway. Oatlands….is one of Tasmania’s gems… don’t miss it!

Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary

One of the most interesting places I have visited this year is the Massacre Rim Dark Sky Sanctuary located about 150 miles north of Reno but easily accessible from Cedarville, California. Part of Dark Sky International, an organization which advocates protecting the night skies from light pollution; it’s designation marks this part of Nevada as one of the darkest places in the USA and the world. This vast area is so remote that the night sky is not impacted by human produced light resulting in some of the clearest star gazing available in the world. In fact, the Milky Way is visible by just the naked eye and the planets are so bright that it feels as if you can reach up and touch them. The night sky vistas are so immense and the number of stars so numerous it will bring tears to the eyes of the most cantankerous of old men.

The nights we were camping there the sky was teaming with stars as the coyotes howled in delight. Shooting stars flew across the night sky by the dozens and the magnificent Man in the Moon brought himself so close that you could hear his whispers as he spoke from the heavens above. This was in January 2025 and it was cold during the night with temperatures below freezing resulting in fluctuations of over 40 degrees between night and day. Since temperatures can reach over 100 degrees in the summer to me the optimum time to visit this amazing place would probably be spring or fall.

One benefit of no light pollution in an area is that it allows nocturnal animal habitats to thrive. Here you might find badgers, kangaroo rats, bats, mountain lions and a rattlesnake or two. Because of the isolation of this area it is important to bring what you might need to survive an emergency. Also, it is important to keep in mind that there is snowfall in the winter time so it is imperative to have enough supplies on hand to keep you warm and fed for several days. Further, you cannot count on cell service in this remote area so be sure to let loved ones know where you will be.

There are several markets in Cedarville (including Page’s) and at Alturas where you can pick up groceries and supplies. I can also recommend without reservation several eateries and cute little stores in Cedarville including The Vault (great coffee and knickknacks) and the Country Hearth Restaurant which serves fresh baked goods as well as amazingly large portion breakfasts.

There are numerous campgrounds in the area managed by the BLM which can be contacted for further information at:

Bureau of Land Management
602 Cressler St.
Cedarville, CA 96104
530-279-6101

While Massacre Rim takes a bit of planning and time to visit, its breathtaking night skies are out of this world and definitely worth a trip. In fact, I was so impressed and awestruck by what I experienced that I am now planning on visiting as many Dark Sky Sanctuaries as I possibly can.

For more information on Dark Sky viewing visit: dark sky.org

Fly Fishing Around Terrace, BC Canada

How did I end up in Terrace, British Columbia, Canada you may be wondering? Well, I fell in love with a man dedicated to fly fishing and as a result I found a new love myself. Fly fishing in Canada is world-class and everyone comes to tell fish stories and show off their latest prize catch and then (hopefully) return it to the wild. Steelheads are the prize and they can reach gargantuan proportions .

Here is a picture of me in my waders.

We spent time fishing the Skeena River which just happens to be the second longest river complex in British Columbia. The Kitimat and the Kalam are also winding and spectacular. Here the scenery is breathtaking and wildlife abundant; while waterfalls fall over the mountains and you can count as many as you can when in the Fjords of Norway. Old growth forests dominate and birds of prey can be seen often and during all times of the day. Moose quietly run amuck and bear are thick as thieves. One day we were out collecting mushrooms and hiking up a high trail when a very loud cat growl warned as we were trespassing and we clambered down the mountain quickly. Be sure to bring bear spray when out on the trails.

We pretty much based ourselves out of Terrace which is a lovely town with a few great restaurants. Blue Fin Sushi Bar quickly became a favorite and Thornhill Pub serves up some mighty tasty beer on tap. Of coarse, Tim Horton’s coffee is amazing but so are many of the local shops. And Canadian Tire proved to be good hosts for getting water and campers often use their dump station.

Located adjacent to the George Little Park is the Skeena Valley Farmers Market where the freshest produce can be had for very reasonable prices. A big bonus is that variety of local mushrooms are endless. From Lobster to King Oysters if you are a fungi fan you can’t find a better place to find your favorites and cook them down for dinner. The market is open on Saturdays.

If you don’t want to spend your last time a fun and free thing to do is walk the city and view all the murals and artwork that can be found around downtown. This was one of my favorite pieces but with so many artistic achievements it is hard to pick a favorite. There is also the Terrace Art Gallery nearby which features local artists and is definitely worth a stop.

If you are a hiker meander up to Terrace Wolf Pack where you can view six metal life-sized wolves in natural poses. The trailhead begins at the end of Johnstone Street.

Another free experience is go mushroom hunting. Now the ones I am about to show you are mostly poisonous so DON’T EAT THEM but the sheer variety that are out there in the woods and meadows make fungi frolicking a fantastic way to spend some time.

I wish I could tell you some great fish stories myself but alas I cannot for the entire three weeks I was visiting it poured. The rivers were chocolate and often too high to fish but still we tried. But I had a great time visiting museums, hiking and learning about this beautiful wooded paradise.

One day I hope to make my way back to these parts as being on the river so much limited the amount of looking around I could do. But if you want some of the most beautiful scenery in the world, this is one of the places that I would highly recommend. Just know the weather at times can be “iffy” and bring a good book but wherever you go in the area incredible vistas will constantly slap you in the face and you will often consider pulling up stakes just to spend your remaining life in this natural wonderland.

Elephant Peace Project-Chiang Rai, Thailand

Last month I had the privilege of meeting Meta the Elephant. She lives at the Elephant Peace Project in Chiang Rai, Thailand along with two other elephants. This organization is run by DADA who is an indigenous Karen tribal member and who advocates for the humane treatment and care of elephants as traditionally practiced by her ancestors. DADA has lived with elephants all her life as have numerous generations of her family. Living with elephants is a tradition and way of life of the Karen.

The elephants are allowed to roam untethered throughout the property and they do not engage in work or hard labor for a living. They are lovingly cared for, bathed, and fed throughout the day. The amount of food that they eat per day is massive and they are destructive as they go about gathering their own food. As a result their diets have to be supplemented with food that is bought by the organization.

The feel of the trunk of an elephant as she removed food from my hand is nothing like anything I have ever felt before. The trunk is a powerful life force onto itself and the work that it can do by gripping and pulling is amazing. I was in complete awe. But perhaps the most surprising thing to me about the elephant was their skin. It felt leathery and rough from all the mud that they threw on themselves until we bathed them. Then, with all the dirt and mud removed, their skin felt as smooth as a newborn baby’s butt! Oh, and did you know, that elephant’s store water at the top of their trunk basically between their eyes!

Elephants are intelligent creatures and their command of the language used by the Mahout is astounding. Here are just a few of the words that an elephant knows as sounded out in English:

Word Meaning

How Stop

Pei Pei Come with me

Bun Bun Eat

Buuuun Drink

Chol Sigh Go to the left

Chol Qwa Go to the right

Chol Toy Backup

Hwe Hwe Walk Forward

Lupe Stand Up

We had a great day hiking with the elephants, being educated about them and feeding them different foods throughout the day. We urge you to support the Elephant Peace Project to help feed these gentle giant eating machines. Contributions can be made via the Elephant Peace Project website. Here is the link:

http://www.elephantpeaceproject.org

Ahwhanee Hotel in Yosemite

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One of the great United States Park Service hotels is undoubtedly the Ahwahanee located in Yosemite National Park. Opened in 1927 it is considered to be a masterpiece of U.S. Park Service Rustic architecture and hospitality but it has also served its troops well too. Back during WWII the Ahwahanee served as a rehabilitation hospital for Naval troops with a skiing program put into place to help the soldiers regain their strength. But its greatest honor occurred in 1987 when it became one of the premier destinations on the National Historic Registry.

It really doesn’t matter what season you visit you will always find the service impeccable and the views breathtaking. Yet, if I were planning a vacation here I would avoid the summer when the place is packed and the weather is often uncomfortably hot.  Personally, my favorite time to venture here is in the winter when the Ahwhanee is all decked out for Christmas. Using ornaments and decorations from a bygone era it is step back into history.  And perhaps the most coveted ticket in this neck of the woods is the one to the annual Bracebridge dinner held during the holiday season.  Here fortunate guests travel back to Christmas past, feasting all evening on delicacies and local wines while enjoying entertainment that might have been served up in a manor in the 1600’s. So alluring is the show that people sign up years in advance for a part in the production and famed photographer Ansel Adams was once one of the performers.

One thing I love to do while here is to sign up for the Ahwahnee Tour and History walk. Here hotel experts will fill you in on how the hotel was constructed and you’ll learn interesting Hotel tidbits like the fact that the chairs in the drawing room were made to purposely tip you up towards the windows so you always have an amazing view.

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As you can plainly see the  Ahwahnee Hotel is an amazing place of natural beauty and even if you cannot get reservations you can certainly stop in for a stroll and a cool glass of ice tea. But more importantly, take the time to wander outdoors. Cross over a bridge or two and watch the mist from the waterfalls soar into the sky. And if you are lucky, you might just see some of these beautiful creatures…but don’t get too close… because Momma bear is near and she would be happy to have you for breakfast.

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Finally, one of the biggest disappoints regarding the Ahwahnee is the despicable behavior of the Delaware North corporation which operated this park until it lost its lease bid to a rival company. Unfortunately, this greedy corporation is claiming rights of ownership to the names of all of the buildings in the park and today the Ahwahnee is being renamed after almost 100 years. It is a disgrace and I refuse to refer to this hotel by anything but its original name. In fact, I urge you to join me in a boycott of Delaware North properties and airport concessions. You can also let this malicious corporation know about your displeasure of their name grab of our historic buildings by contacting Victoria Hong Director of Corporate Communications at the corporate headquarters at this email address:vhong@delawarenorth.com

Best Neolithic Site-County Meath, Ireland

Sitting high on a hill in the Boyne Valley sits Newgrange; one of the ancient wonders of the world. It is an amazing place that sets your imagination on fire as it takes you back to a place so old that most people have never seen anything remotely like it before. Built before both the Egyptian Pyramids and Stonehenge; this burial mound is over 5,000 years old, but like a shy maiden you would never guess her age, for she has aged well.

We drove to the site which overlooks this valley carved out of hills with running streams throughout. This place is truly out in the middle of nowhere. Traveling down a steep road we could get glimpses of the massive site through the trees as we neared the Bru na Boinne Visitor Center. Here we bought the tickets necessary to board the bus that takes you to Newgrange itself. But while waiting we viewed depicting life as it was lived so long ago by the Neolithic people. Most exhibits here focus on how the tombs were built, why they were built, and how they were used. The architecture here is superb with glass walls allowing visitors to take in the picture perfect views of the Valley. In addition, there is a small tea room to sit, take a snack, and just enjoy all that surrounds you.

After about 20 minutes of coffee sipping, we boarded the shuttle bus and were taken to Newgrange. I was amazed at the size of the mound which encompasses about an acre. Spying out of the bus windows you see enormous retaining wall that is surrounded by artfully carved kerbstones. There are many standing stones ringing the mound that add a sense of mystery to the place but it seems that they are a newer addition having been placed there sometime in the Bronze Age.

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From the bus we walked quite a way to the entrance where we were met by a guide who described all we could see and would be seeing inside the chamber, which incidentally, only takes up a small part of the over-all site. But by far the most interesting thing about Newgrange is the roof-box which sits directly over the entrance. The Neolithic people designed this narrow space to align with the sun so that on December 21st (Winter Solstice) the first of the sun’s rays pass through the box, extend down the passage and into the chamber. The chamber then lites up and glows for about 15 minutes before being consumed by the darkness once again.  Both burnt and unburnt bone have been discovered here leading researchers to believe that bodies some bodies had been cremated before being placed in the passage.

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This is a place where the spirit and the intensions of the ancient live on. It is a site where hilly ground keeps treasures and secrets buried but still “seen.” It is a place where those who enjoy the mysterious should venture. Newgrange…remember the name!