Montezuma Castle-Camp Verde, Arizona

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Let’s get one thing straight right from the get-go. Even though this is referred to as Montezuma Castle, the great Aztec chief himself never lived in this settlement nor contributed to its development; as this Pueblo was built over centuries and then abandoned at least 40 years prior to his birth.

It has been years since I have been to this sacred place that was once home to the Sinagua people but is now the home of  the National Monument that honors them. I still remember the raw feelings of the life force that still swirls throughout the canyon as well as a sense of awe that these native people, who lived so long ago, could design buildings and pottery that were so impressive and long lasting. Descendants of these ancient people live on in the Hopi and other native peoples of the Southwest.

The Castle sits about 90 ft up a sheer limestone cliff and was built over time and occupied from about 1100-1450 AD. though there is archaeological evidence that the Sinagua were in the area since 700 AD.  The main building contains about 20 rooms and is approximately five stories high. It was built within an alcove which allowed it to remain protected from the elements and was placed high enough to avoid the seasonal flooding that occurred on Beaver Creek which lay directly below this village. It is constructed from huge chunks of limestone and from clay obtained from the creek bed beneath the Pueblo. The ceilings were made of thatch that was procured from the Arizona sycamore.

One of the more interesting facts about Montezuma Castle was that it was abandoned for some time due to volcanic eruption of Sunset Crater but was later re-occupied and agricultural production was resumed after the effects of the eruption diminished.

The dwellings and the 860 acres that surround them were declared a United States National Monument in 1906 with the signing of the American Antiquities Act. Early visitors were allowed to climb ladders into the buildings but due to damage from these well meaning visitors the practiced was halted in 1951. Today you can only see Montezuma Castle from viewing platforms or along the 1/3 mile loop trail that winds below the pueblo. However,  it is easy to learn about Sinagua culture and see artifacts from the area at the Visitor Center.

This National Park is located near Camp Verde, Arizona off Interstate 17. It is open from 8 a.m. until 5 p.m. everyday except Christmas.

There is a $10 fee to enter Montezuma Castle and the Tuzigoot National Monument which is valid for 7 days. Children under 15 are free.

HINT: Buy a National Park Pass ($80) which allows access to all National Parks and Federal Recreation Lands for a year for the pass holder + 2 adults. And if you are 62 years of age or older A Senior Pass can be purchased for $10 which allows you and three adults into all the National Parks without incurring additional entrance fees.

 

 

Bloomingdale’s Medinah-Chicago, Illinois

One of my favorite places in Chicago to browse (notice I said browse not shop) is at Bloomingdales Medinah store on Wabash Avenue.

I remember the first time I saw it. I was so stunned that my jaw slacked and my mouth dropped open in surprise as I stared in awe this totally unique and fascinating piece of architecture. It’s not often you run across Moorish Revival Architecture  with onion domes and horseshoe-shaped arches in the middle of an American city but here stood this jewel and I was lucky enough to be able to go in and take a look.  Needless to say, I was intrigued front entrance  where I saw the words “The is no God but Allah” written in Arabic.

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According to information provided by the store the building was built in 1912 and its intended use was as an auditorium seating over 4,000 people on three levels as well as a meeting hall for the Shriners. The Shrine Circus took place here complete with elephants, tigers and clowns to thrill the crowd. Because the acoustics were so superb, the venue was used for recording by the Chicago Symphony. Concerts and plays were another favorite crowd pleaser.

Like most good things which must come to an end beginning in 2000 the building was gutted and turned into a home furnishing store by Bloomingdales.

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It is a real treat to “shop” here. Everywhere you look there is something interesting to see. From the domed ceiling to ornate stained glass there are clues to this wonderful buildings past that surround you. And ladies some of the best stained glass windows can be found in the restroom.

If you would like to view some historic photographs of the building visit:

http://westsuburbanshrineclub.org/History-Wabash.htm

Best Place For A Joust-Linlithgow Palace, Scotland

When we were in Scotland one of the things our kids loved the best was the jousting tournament that was held at Linlithgow Palace in West Lothian. While the Palace is a place to remember in of itself, it is the jousting event that captured our imagination.

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The first thing that takes your breath away is the castle itself and the cobblestone walkway leading up to it.  Huge stone gates greet you and inside them you will find people dressed and acting as if they were locals of the area living in the 1400 and 1500’s. Once in the courtyard you will meet beggars and huntsmen, ladies in waiting and squires. Set against the backdrop of this magnificent 15th century palace in which Mary Queen of Scots was born; all the action that surrounds you makes you feel as though you have stepped back in time.

Exiting to the tournament grounds one of the first things you will notice is the enormous and sparkling Linlithgow Loch. Deeper into the venue you will see tents of the horsemen and find the living history camps. It was here on the grounds that we met this archer who shared with us his handmade arrows. Did you know that the feathers on an arrow must be from the same bird in order to fly properly? Neither did we.

Then it was time for the action to begin as magnificent and regal steeds flew across the valley their hoofs shaking the ground as they thundered across. The children were invited into the Children’s Army before the action began.Then men wearing armour and using weapons of the era battled it out on horseback and on foot using the chants of the crowd to spur them on.

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All in all a great fun-filled and educational day.

 

This year’s tournament will be held July 2 and 3, 2016. Admission is£6.30 for kids up to£10 for adults.

The Best Graveyard-Stirling, Scotland

If you are like me and LOVE, LOVE, LOVE genealogy than you will understand this post. Otherwise, you just might not.

Sometimes the perfect place to visit is the cemetery. Some people talk to loved ones and some take along picnic lunches. I love to look at the stones. Especially the ancient ones. Usually they are a piece of artwork and often the artists behind them have their own story to tell. I take pictures of these headstones and put the pictures of them up on http://www.findagrave.com so people can connect to the relatives in their past. To date, I have contributed over 5,000.

My favorite graveyards happen to be in Scotland. I am going to introduce you to the one in Stirling known as Old Town Cemetery. It’s a great place to go. Sitting atop a hill between the huge Stirling Castle and the Church of the Holy Rude it is the only cemetery in the UK that was laid out to celebrate the establishment of Presbyterianism. It is a vast place containing graves from the 1600’s up until the present. Because it encompasses so many eras you can really see how headstones change with the times.

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There are many Key Stones contained within the cemetery including Martyr’s Monument which recognizes those who suffered martyrdom in pursuit of religious and civic freedom in Scotland. The Reformer Statues stand in honor of those ministers who fought King Charles who was attempting to establish Episcopal teachings throughout the country. Here you will also find the ornate monuments of local businessmen who carved enormous headstones to honor their families.

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But my favorite monuments are the small unique ancient ones. Often devoid of names it is the unusual carvings that capture my fancy. Skulls, ancient symbols…they are all there.

So next time you are visiting a city take a trip to the local cemetery. It usually has a great view and you just might “meet” some interesting people too!

Kepaniwai Heritage Gardens-Maui, Hawaii

Nestled in the Iao Valley on the island of Maui is a park dedicated to the native people of this Polynesian island and the immigrants who settled within her arms. It is a peaceful hamlet of lush tropical plants contained within the memorial gardens and traditional homes/buildings of the Koreans, Portuguese, Chinese, New Englanders, Japanese and native Hawaiians.

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This beautiful park was established in 1952 and within you will find such items as a New England Salt Box, a Hawaiian grass hut, a beautiful Chinese moon gate and many other treasures as diverse as the people who settled here.

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You will also find small waterfalls and ponds that are fed by the Iao stream which meanders through this county park.  This is the perfect place to picnic, cook a few burgers and just chill out from the “stress” of a Hawaiian vacation. While not maintained to the high caliber you would expect of such a unique and national treasure, nevertheless it is a place to relax and learn a little more about the peoples who grew this island to what it is today. Hopefully in the near future Maui will step up and give this park the attention and showcase it deserves.

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Ross Errilly Friary-Headford, County Galway, Ireland

This is one of those stories that show the importance of being spontaneous when traveling. We had never even heard of Ross Errilly Friary when we first saw it in the distance as we were traveling to our next hotel in Ireland. It certainly was not on our agenda.

I said to Dave, “Quick. We have got to go there. Turn us around!” Now he wanted to keep going to our hotel but he indulged my whimsical nature and he turned us around: past a few homey looking come-on-in sort of bars, past a dozen or so Irish cows ripping shoots of new green grass from the earth, and eventually following a small narrow road through the outskirts of Headford. As we came closer the enormity of the place became exceedingly apparent. This place is HUGE.

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As we parked and left the car walking towards the Friary we became engaged in a conversation with a gentleman who was removing out-of-place looking fence posts from the place.  Seems a movie had just been shot using the location less than a week ago. Unfortunately, he couldn’t remember the name.

Ross Errilly is a medieval Franciscan friary and is considered to be one of the best preserved monastic relics in the entire country of Ireland. It is believed that the friary was begun somewhere between the mid 1300’s to the mid 1400’s but when the first stone was laid is a mystery to this day.

The sheer size of the bell tower is the first thing that captures your attention as you walk through a small courtyard-like area.

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A small well preserved central cloister with recent burials contained within its walls. The sun reflecting and resulting shadows make this area magical and mysterious. There is also a second cloister located on the grounds.

At the north area of the complex you will find a huge kitchen complete with a water tank which once held live fish for the evening’s supper and enormous ovens. A massive dining room is nearby.

Huge altars dot the inside of the yard and many gravestones can be found littering the walkways, on walls and covering those altars. One can just imagine those movie actors brandishing swords and jumping from stone to stone as they dueled to the end.

Due to political and religious upheaval the Franciscans were forced to abandon the abbey many times during its history but by the end of the 18th century the friary was all but a neglected ruin. By 1866 it has become a well-known site where locals left the remains of the dead without proper burial and mounds of skulls and bones were could be found littered throughout the place.

Today it is operated by the Office of Public Works and is open to the public free of charge.

This one was of the best ruins in Ireland and for some reason it really spoke to my heart. When we arrived it was raining but as soon as we exited the car it stopped and didn’t begin again until we arrived back and hour later. Obviously,  history was kind to us that day and so were the Gods. I am thankful for the discovery it all.

 

Mushroom Houses-Charlevoix, Michigan

In the beautiful resort town of Charlevoix, Michigan lie an amazing array of “mushroom” homes designed by Earl Young (1889-1975). For a span of 52 years this insurance man/realtor spent time designing and/or building over 30 homes in the area. Following Frank Lloyd Wright’s philosophy that a home should fit into the landscape of the area; Young crafted his “hobbit” or “fairyland” houses of local stone many with “hidden” doorways. He refused to remove trees in order to build, instead, incorporating them into his designs. He also employed the use of multiple curved lines in his masterpieces foregoing the traditional use of straight lines and angles.

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Many of Young’s houses can be found in the Boulder Park area of the city. Each home is unique; some large and ornate while others are more mouse-house sized. During the summer there are occasional tours of these homes but brochures which offer a self-guided walking tour can be had at the Charlevoix Chamber of Commerce.

But if visiting the inside of a Young building is on your bucket list  you can always head over to the Weathervane Terrace Inn and Suites. Located on the Pine River overlooking Round Lake it is the perfect place to explore Young’s sense of play in his creations.

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Today, new houses are springing up in the area reminiscent of the ones designed by Young. Below is a beautiful example that I saw being built last summer (2015). Utilizing thatch like many of Young’s early homes, it gives this unique and stately beauty the sense of being an old English manor located somewhere on that great Island.

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While there are many other things to do in Charlevoix  besides house gazing there are few places you will ever visit that has such a wonderful legacy available to anyone on a drive-by. So slow it on down and head into town. It’s definitely worth a stop.

 

 

 

Best Time To See Mt. Rushmore-Keystone, South Dakota

With the day crowds being what they are at our nations National Parks it often makes the park experience less than desirable. Too many people in too small of a space =grumpy, shoving, tired and hot adults who are in desperate need of deodorant. Not exactly what one thinks of when they envision a trip of a life time. That is why the Evening Lighting Ceremony at Mt. Rushmore is the perfect time to visit one of our most beloved parks.

The first time I visited Mt. Rushmore was when I was about 8 years old. I didn’t remember much about it because the only thing an 7 year-old would take away from the experience is wondering how much kleenex it would take to blow Washington’s nose. So this year as we caravanned across the country we sought activities that would be enjoyable for our children. Now Mt. Rushmore is questionable at best for kids (they look for all of 1 minute and then want to spend the next 20 minutes in the gift shop) but what better way to see it than at night when the sizzling sun has disappeared and temperature has dropped a good 25 degrees. Yes, this is the perfect time to visit.

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From the end of May until Near the end of May until the end of September Mt. Rushmore comes alive at night. At 8 or 9 p.m., depending on the month, your first glimpse of the area is the Avenue of Flags and it is a sight to behold when its lit up. The 56 flags are arranged in alphabetical order which include the 50 states, one district, three territories and two commonwealths of the United States of America. Bold colors with interesting stories line the promenade which will enthrall even the youngest child.

From there you proceed to the outside theatre where visitors watch a 20 minute film about the presidents whose faces grace the granite…George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Abraham Lincoln, and Theodore Roosevelt. Their faces are a remarkable 60 ft high and a combined 185 ft long. Begun in 1927 by sculptor Gutzon Borglum his Shrine of Democracy Sculpture shines as a beacon for democracy throughout the world since its completion in 1941.

After the film, visitors join in the singing of a patriotic song and veterans are invited to the stage where they give their name and their branch of service. If you are into military patriotism this is a treat as you see the last of the WWII vets slowly make their way forward… frail but proud. Spend some time with them after the show and ask them about their experiences. You will be glad that you did.

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Then, finally, when things just couldn’t get anymore emotional the mountain is illuminated and a hush falls over the crowd. The beauty and the enormity of the sculpture fills the dark as the lights shine into every nook and cranny so you see items which escape you in the daylight and all of a sudden everyone lets out a collective sigh of delight and awe. It really is just that magical!

So if you are planning a trip to Mt. Rushmore remember the best part of the day to visit the monument is really at night!

For more information visit the park service website at:

http://www.nps.gov/moru/index.htm

Valkenburg Caves-Valkenburg, Netherlands

What brought us to the charming town of Valkenburg was my 13th G-Grandfather, Jan Van Valkenburg (1515-1575). It was his home town and I wanted to see it. And we did. It was fabulous. But what touched us more were the caves (Cauberg Cavern-Gemeentegrot/Fluweelengrot ) radiating out beneath the center of the city and did they ever have a story to tell. So we listened.DSC05816

You can enjoy the caves either by guided walking tour or by “train.” I would advise walking. The walk is easy not steep and you will be given plenty of time to ask any and all questions that your heart desires.

As for the history of the caves, the Romans began excavating them 2,000 years ago for use as building material in and around the area and significant buildings still stand today as a testament of its worth. The caves have also been used for centuries as a sanctuary for refugees during the French Revolution and more recent wars.

Be sure to step up close to the walls and you will see limestone littered with fossils and shells proof of an underwater world that existed here 100 million years ago. It is fascinating to see all the “fossil gold” left behind.

Yet,  the real treasure in the caves is the art work left by miners and residents of the town  since  before the 1700’s. Drawn in charcoal and created by the dim light thrown off by candles and later, lanterns, these works of art depict a living history of what was known or imagined by these dedicated artisans.  In addition to the paintings there are also huge statues carved into the walls throughout the entire labyrinth of corridors that run under the city.

But perhaps the most compelling picture is the Liberation of the City by the Americans in on September 17, 1944. It is a tribute to those brave men who worked to reclaim this city from the Germans and deed her once again to its citizens. And below the painting you will find the signatures of some of the soldiers who participated in the liberation.

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But perhaps even more astonishing is this fact: that during the 10-day battle the towns 10,000 residents all lived in the caves together while fierce fighting raged in the streets. It gives you pause as you wander with your guide thinking about what it must have been like underneath the city not knowing if you might live or die.

At the end of the tour you will be lead to another set of tunnels in which various eras of artwork are projected onto the walls of the cave creating a living-breathing art show that  surrounds you and disorientates you at some level.Very cool!

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While we did not visit during Christmas it is my understanding that a huge Christmas Market is held on weekends during the weeks prior to the holiday. Here you will find crafts and fine works of art offered for sale by local craftsmen.

Entrance fee about 5 Euros

Hint: Wear a jacket as it is chilly deep underground.

Sonora Celtic Festival-Sonora, CA

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The Sonora Celtic Festival is undoubtedly one of the biggest Celtic festivals in the nation and with thirty years experience of throwing a HUGE shindig these people know how to put on a show.

This years bands were once again totally amazing. With Celtica, Wicked Tinkers, Tempest and Golden Bough fronting the stage you couldn’t help but rock and reel. Of course there are many amazing pipe bands who drone you out including the Stag and Thistle Pipe Band out of Fresno, California.

One of the largest living history villages celebrating over 2000 years of Celtic history is set up for the weekend. Here you will find dedicated folk cooking, eating, dressing, and celebrating as they did so long ago. Jousting by the Imperial Knights and The Highland Throwers also give you a thrilling taste of the sport back in the day. And whatever you do stay out of the way of the armored fighters or you might just feel the slick metallic edge of the sword against your neck.

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While there you must stop into the clan booths and find out about “your people” and the history of the clans in Scotland. There are also over 100 Celtic craftsmen, artisans and vendors displaying their wares.

And of course there is the food. Roasted turkey legs, meat pies and haggis are a few of the family favorites which we eat while watching the Irish step and Scottish highland dancers. But the best offering  bar none is the whiskies and ales. You must do a taste test to discover your favorite belly warming drink.

The Sonora Celtic Festival is held every March in Sonora, California. To learn more visit:

http://www.sonoracelticfaire.com/